As New Zealand Fashion Week: Kahuria kicks off on Tuesday at the Viaduct Events Centre, local designers will be out to impress the Australian power players in the front row.
Among the visiting VIPs will be buyers from David Jones, Harrolds and Parlour X, and fashion media titans Damien Woolnough-Reid (the Sydney Morning Herald), Jonah Waterhouse (Vogue Australia), Patty Huntington (Harper’s Bazaar) and Pema Bakshi (Grazia magazine).
NZFW Ambassadors broadcaster and former Miss World New Zealand Jess Tyson and stylists-to-the-stars Sammy Salsa and Sarah Stuart will be there. And Spy expects to see deputy PM Carmel Sepuloni by the Kiri Nathan runway and NZFW regulars Samantha Hayes, Antonia Prebble and Petra Bagust attend at some stage. If former PM Jacinda Ardern is in town, she would be the star guest at Juliette Hogan’s Tuesday night show. Hogan was her chosen “go to” when Ardern was in office.
Woolnough-Reid, the Sydney Morning Herald’s style editor, who has been a fashion week regular over the years, says he’s excited by the way the transtasman markets interact. Kiwi designers Maggie Marilyn and Wynn Hamlyn are now key figures at Australian Fashion Week, he points out.
“What I am hoping for are unique expressions of people and places. Unique craftsmanship is also a winner and a bit of whimsy has its place,” he says.
Woolnough-Reid is particularly looking forward to Kiri Nathan, Campbell Luke and Juliette Hogan.
“The Kate Sylvester show is also a must-see because of her unique eye, and the fact she always has the best runway soundtrack. 2023 playlist sorted.”
Bakshi, who is attending NZFW for the first time, wants to see brands that are genuinely offering some difference. New Zealand fashion has always had the agility to be more experimental, she says.
“I’d really love to see designers take a different approach, offering us eclectic pieces that can be mixed and matched to complement an otherwise simple look.
“Brands that have a unique look that can separate itself from the rest and bring value to our wardrobes rather than playing into of-the-moment trends. What I like to look for are innovative designs that don’t compromise on craftsmanship.”
Bakshi says Australian fashion is undergoing a major shift.
“Where we’ve been known for our relaxed silhouettes and coastal vibes, we’re now seeing designers take a bolder approach, pushing the envelope of what the ‘Aussie aesthetic’ looks like, which is really exciting to witness.”
Rachel White, the buyer for David Jones, says she will be on the hunt for newness. She’s looking for brands offering a point of difference to their current assortment that will resonate with customers.
She’s looking forward to seeing what New Zealand’s fashion talent has to offer, and developing a better understanding of the Kiwi customer.
“I’m looking forward to seeing Campbell Luke and Juliette Hogan as well as veteran Kate Sylvester, as well as the Next Gen and grad shows,” White says.
“Trend-wise, we are seeing our customer come off the party-dress high and reinvest in wardrobe essentials. Pink is hot right now and for next season, all signs point towards blues.
“There is absolutely a continuation of the 90s trend across all categories being played into. However, in saying that, I love seeing designers staying in their own lane and remaining true to their brand DNA.”