COMMENT: It's Gordon Ramsay as you've never seen him before: wearing a fake moustache and sideburns, topped off with a flat cap and specs that make him look like a minor character on Only Fools and Horses.
This ridiculous disguise kind of sums up his latest restaurant rescue show, Gordon Ramsay's 24 Hours To Hell And Back. A bit of a laugh, but … let's just say, had a shark appeared at any time during the episode, he would have had no qualms about jumping right over it.
He was deep undercover at Bella Gianna's, an Italian family restaurant in upstate New York where things had all gone a bit Fawlty Towers. The service was openly hostile, the food so bad it defied description. A dish of undercooked veal, Ramsay spluttered, reaching for something to compare it to, was "like the underside of my grandfather's underpants".
One of the actors playing a member of his pretend family actually started out-Ramsaying Ramsay. "That looks like a placenta," she scoffed. "I wouldn't feed it to my dog." Could the bad boy of reality cooking shows be losing his touch?
There was still the occasional glimpse of classic Ramsay. "I've just witnessed one of the most appalling lunches I've ever eaten," to the staff after he peeled off the fake sideburns and shut down the restaurant mid-service. "I'm surprised you can stand up straight with that chip on your shoulder," to the restaurant manager. That sort of thing.