Preserved cabbage – thin white sauerkraut or jewel-bright pickled red – is often the answer to the question 'what shall I eat with this?'. The acidity gives an energy to whatever else is on your plate. I make a pickle for almost instant eating (though you can keep it longer if you wish) from sliced cabbage, both red and white, wine vinegar and garlic. It is ready in hours rather than weeks and is a winner with feta or halloumi. You need half of the pickled slaw for the halloumi recipe below. It will keep, in a storage jar, in the fridge.
For the pickle: Finely shred the red cabbage. Do the same with the white cabbage. Put the cabbages in a colander, place over a bowl, then sprinkle generously with salt.
Massage the salt well into the shredded leaves and set aside to drain for 30 minutes. Then squeeze the leaves in your hands and pack into a couple of medium-sized storage jars or a large mixing bowl.
Pour the vinegar into a stainless-steel saucepan, add the sugar, peppercorns and the whole garlic. Add 550ml of water and bring to the boil. As soon as the sugar has dissolved, pour the hot liquor over the salted vegetables, toss thoroughly, then seal or cover and set aside overnight, or for at least 4 hours. Turn the vegetables occasionally by stirring or shaking the jar.
For the dressing: Mix together the yoghurt, tahini and lemon juice. Finely chop the coriander and parsley and stir into the sauce. Thin to coating consistency with the iced water.
For the halloumi: Cut the halloumi into large pieces about 1cm thick. Brush them with olive oil. Heat a ridged griddle pan, place the halloumi on the hot griddle and cook for about 4 minutes on each side.
Put half the slaw in a bowl, drained of its marinade. Add the tahini dressing and toss together. Serve the slaw with the halloumi, hot from the griddle.
Edited extract from A Cook's Book by Nigel Slater, published by HarperCollins, RRP$60. Books will be available in November 2021.