Like many, I was a fussy child, struggling to finish my peas, I didn’t even know people ate kidneys. I had my first taste of succulent sweetbreads while washing dishes for Al Brown and was hooked. Now I love offal — sweetbreads, liver, brains, tongue and cheek. With a little care and understanding these gnarly, morbid-sounding cuts can be transformed into something delicious. Each one demands its own unique style of cooking. Duck livers are pan-fried in a little butter, and always cooked until pink. Tongue confit is slowly poached in hot duck fat until tender. Cheeks, my personal favourite, are braised until the meat falls apart, and the fat melts away.
In this recipe I pair the rich meat with a fresh salad and celeriac remoulade (a fancy name for what is essentially a French-style slaw). I find the juxtaposition of hot and cold elements liven the palate and lighten the unctuous beef cheeks.
Braised beef cheek
| 1 ½ kgs | Beef cheeks, or brisket (Main) |
| 1 splash | Canola oil |
| 2 | Carrots, peeled and chopped |
| 1 | Onion, peeled and chopped |
| 2 Tbsp | Tomato paste |
| 1 cup | Port, or red wine |
| 1 bunch | Thyme, small |
| 2 cloves | Garlic, minced |
| 2 | Bay leaves |
| 1 Ltr | Chicken stock |
Celeriac remoulade
| 2 | Celeriac, medium, sliced finely (Main) |
| 4 | Lemons, juiced |
| 1 handful | Parsley, chopped |
| 1 Tbsp | Wholegrain mustard, or horseradish cream |
| 1 cup | Mayonnaise |
Quick pickled shallots
| ¾ cup | Water |
| ¼ cup | White vinegar |
| 2 Tbsp | Sugar |
| 3 | Shallots, cut into rings |
Directions
Braised beef cheek
- Trim beef cheek of silverskin and the outer layer of fat. Season liberally with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat some oil in a casserole over medium heat and brown cheeks until golden, then remove from the pot and set aside.
- Add a little more oil to the pot and brown the carrots and onion. Add tomato paste and deglaze with the port. Add thyme, garlic and bay leaves.
- Place the beef cheeks on top, add the chicken stock and bring to a simmer, removing any foam on top with a ladle.
- Cover with baking paper and a tight fitting lid and turn down very low. Simmer for 2-2.5 hours or until fork-tender, adding more water if necessary.
Celeriac remoulade
Toss the sliced celeriac in the lemon juice, add all other ingredients and combine well. Season to taste with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
Quick pickled shallots
A quick pickle draws out the sharp flavour of onion and adds sweetness. These are great instead of raw onion in lots of salads. Bring water, vinegar and sugar to a boil, pour over sliced shallots, allow to cool and serve.
To serve
- Place some celeriac remoulade on each plate, top with half a beef cheek and spoon over some of the braising liquid.
- In a bowl toss Italian parsley, watercress, pickled shallots and sliced gherkins with a little olive oil, and place on top of the cheek.
