Many chefs have become the rock stars of the culinary world and influence our cooking with their flavours and presentation techniques. In 2007, one such star — chef David Haase from Lake Constance in southern Germany — was invited to become a member of the kitchen team at the exclusive Herzog Restaurant in Marlborough. Each year a selection of top European chefs are asked to spend the summer season at Herzog and while David was working there he fell in love with the lifestyle, food and wine of the region. Last year he snared the position of exec chef at Vintners Restaurant at Marlborough Vintners Hotel.
David trained in Germany but spent three years in top restaurants in Austria before discovering New Zealand. “I love being able to create dishes with the fabulous fresh produce that is right on the doorstep here — so different from in Europe.”
David has developed an extensive organic veggie garden adjacent to his kitchen. I recently toured it with him and admired the impressive assortment of greens including different varieties of lettuces, herbs, capsicums, leeks, spring onions, globe artichokes, plus beetroot, raspberries and a variety of edible flowers — all flourishing. Close by there is an orchard and large olive grove, and in May the olives will be picked for either pickling or pressing for oil for use in the kitchen. Excess produce is preserved.
Most of the year David has no need to purchase vegetables — they are picked on the day of use. “In summer, there’s nothing quite like a salad of freshly picked greens and a tasty dressing.”
In his spare time David has developed a large home garden to provide even more goodies for his menu. This is a man who has totally adopted the Kiwi lifestyle.
Beetroot ricotta, pan-fried asparagus & broad bean salad
Serves 4
Chef David Haase uses olive oil pressed from olives grown adjacent to his Marlborough Vintners Hotel kitchen.
Roasted beetroot ricotta
200g beetroot, washed
1 clove garlic, crushed
few sprigs thyme
2 Tbsp olive oil
250g ricotta
Flaky sea salt and pepper to taste
Asparagus and broad bean salad
12-14 stalks asparagus, trimmed
2 Tbsp olive oil
Flaky sea salt and pepper to taste
250g podded fresh broad beans
100g mixed salad leaves
Vinaigrette
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 Tbsp wine vinegar
- Heat the oven to 180C.
- Place the beetroot, garlic and thyme in the centre of a large sheet of foil. Drizzle with the olive oil. Season. Wrap tightly and place on a roasting tray. Bake for 1 hour or until a knife can be inserted easily into the beetroot. Cool, then peel. Discard the garlic and thyme.
- Whizz the beetroot in a blender, until smooth. Add the ricotta and blend well. Season and chill until required.
- Diagonally cut each asparagus spear into 2cm lengths. Sauté in the olive oil on high heat until golden brown. Season. Drain on paper towels.
- Meanwhile, blanch the broad beans in boiling water for about 1 minute. Drain and refresh in ice cold water. Pop the bright green beans out of their skins. Discard the skins.
- Whisk the ingredients together for the dressing.
- Toss the pan-fried asparagus, broad beans, salad leaves and vinaigrette together in a bowl. Season to taste.
- To serve, spoon the beetroot ricotta onto the centre of four plates and make a well in the centre of each. Pile the salad into the wells. Serve with crostini or crusty fresh bread.
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Citrus and herb crusted salmon
Serves 2
Based on a recipe from chef David Haase. David cooked a halved lemon together with the salmon.
4 salmon fillets, skin on, pin bones removed
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 cup chopped mixed herbs eg chervil, parsley, dill, thyme
Finely grated rind 1 lemon, 1 orange
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
200g green asparagus or round beans
½ cup toasted hazelnuts, optional
- Place the salmon fillets — skin-side down – in a large baking dish. Drizzle with 2 Tbsp of the olive oil. Sprinkle with the chopped herbs and citrus rinds. Gently press into the fish. Cover and chill overnight.
- Bring the salmon to room temperature before cooking. Season.
- Place the salmon — skin-side down — in a medium-hot frying pan. Increase the heat and cook until the skin is crispy and golden, but not burnt. Flip the salmon over and cook for 2 minutes
- In the meantime roughly slice the asparagus or beans on an angle. Fry in olive oil in a hot pan, until crisp-tender. Place on 2 serving plates. Drizzle with olive oil and chopped hazelnuts. Place the salmon fillets on top.
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Super summer salmon salad
Serves 2
A spur-of-the-moment creation I served an unexpected guest.
Dressing
2 Tbsp lime juice
1 long green chilli, seeded and thinly sliced
1 shallot, diced
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp sugar
Salad
300g potatoes, peeled and cubed
100g sliced smoked salmon
2 large radishes, sliced
½ cup each: coriander and mint leaves
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
- To make the dressing, place the ingredients in a small blender and whizz until well blended.
- Steam or microwave the potatoes, until tender. Drain. Toss in 3 tablespoons of the dressing. Cool.
- Julienne the salmon and combine with the potatoes, radishes, herbs and seasonings. Drizzle with the dressing.
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Jersey benne, tomato and bocconcini salad
Serves 6
Other small potatoes could be used. Do not peel.
500g Jersey Benne potatoes, halved or quartered, if large
¼ cup each: buttermilk, olive oil
2 Tbsp lemon juice
1 Tbsp maple syrup
250g each: bocconcini balls, cherry tomatoes, halved
½ cup small basil leaves
- Boil the potatoes for about 15 minutes or until cooked. Drain and return them to the saucepan. Season.
- Meanwhile, whisk the buttermilk, olive oil, lemon juice and maple syrup together. Pour over the warm potatoes.
- Add the bocconcini and cherry tomatoes. Cool. Add the basil. Mix carefully and season well. Refrigerate for 1 hour before serving.
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