It's time to reluctantly say goodbye to summer. The days will slowly become shorter as we long to bundle up and settle in. This means our last chance to make the most of the summer produce.
I've recently returned home to Aotearoa after 20 years in the UK, and one of the things I've noticed is that here there's less mass importation of "out of season" fruit and vegetables. We have a natural sensibility for cooking what's in season. I believe this has given New Zealanders a heightened appreciation for food that's been sown, grown, and harvested here to fulfil our nutritional (and taste) needs.
In these pages, I hope to inspire this celebration of seasonal produce, of the fruit and vegetables as they come and go, and to savour the taste as the months pass, preserving produce so we can enjoy a doris plum or a nectarine long after they have gone.
The last of the summer sweetcorn
Before the summer disappears, we should all pull out the barbecue one last time and "get your vege on". We should all be thinking of ways to impress the vegetarian in our worlds, especially when the barbecue comes into play, but also to have a star vegetable on your plate to balance out the meatier items.
How to make the summer stone fruits last
Then later in the year, say hello again to plums, peaches and nectarines, by preserving them with a sweet pickle recipe. Bottle these up and enjoy when the autumn and winter months creep in, as a reminder of summer.
Pickling fruit may be new to you, but if you are anything like me and enjoy a sour note, this is a great way to tart up your morning porridge or a comforting rice pudding.
They also make delicious additions to any autumnal salad, and for my carnivore friends, match well with game such as duck, goose or venison.
Charred sweetcorn with a zesty chilli glaze
Serves 2-4
Ingredients
4 corn cobs, in husks
Brine (3 Tbsp salt to 3 litres of water)
40ml lime juice and zest of 1 lime
½-¾ tsp chilli flakes
1 Tbsp runny honey
2 Tbsp good quality olive oil
Sea salt & freshly cracked black pepper
Parmesan cheese (optional)
1. Make enough brine to cover the corn in their husks and soak, weighted down, for 40-60 minutes.
2. On a hot barbecue, or under the grill, steam the corn in their husks for 6-8 minutes, turning every 2 minutes. Remove the husks and any stringy bits.
3. Whisk together lime, chilli, honey and oil, and brush on all sides of the corn, reserving 100ml for later. Return the corn to the barbecue or grill, turning to char on all sides.
4. Serve whole or cut into chunks, with extra glaze and a fine grating of parmesan cheese. Season generously with salt and pepper.
Sweet pickled stoned fruit
Makes 1-2 large jars
Ingredients
4-5 peaches, nectarines or plums
450ml apple cider vinegar
60ml filtered water
3 Tbsp raw sugar
¼ tsp sea salt
3 strips of pared lemon rind
1 Tbsp lemon juice
¼ tsp chilli flakes
1 bay leaf
3 green cardamom pods
2 slices of fresh ginger
1. Prep the stoned fruit, cutting into wedges, discarding the stone. Place into sterilised jars, well packed without squashing.
2. Make your vinegar brine by bringing to a simmer the remaining ingredients. Once cooled, distribute spices into each jar and pour over the brine, making sure the fruit is completely submerged. Tap out any bubbles, top up with brine then cover and seal.
3. Mature the pickles in the jar for at least one week before eating. Unopened, they should keep up to a year. Once opened, keep in the fridge and eat within three months.
Cook's tip: Have too little brine? Make up a little more to top up the jar. Too much brine? Keep it in the fridge for another day's pickling.
Food waste action week hacks
This week is Food Waste Action Week, so here's a few hacks to incorporate into your cooking practice;
- Make use of root vegetable stalks and leaves by turning them into pickles and salads. Make dips from chard, cauliflower & broccoli centres and pestos from carrot tops. Use it all!
- Use your leftover squeezed lemons and citrus to make preserved citrus. Cut into wedges, pop in a jar, add salt and wait.
- Leftover pickle brine? Use them in salad dressings or homemade mayonnaise.
- Freeze egg whites to make pavlova, meringues or amaretti biscuits.
- Place the root ends of spring onions in a jar of water to simply grow new spring onions.
- Store and collect apple skins and cores in the freezer to make your own apple cider vinegar from scratch.
Kylee Newton is a food writer and author of two cookbooks, The Modern Preserver and The Modern Preserver's Kitchen. See her work at themodernpreserver.com and on Instagram @themodernpreserver
