Celebrity cook Julia Child was famous for her pronunciation of the word 'herbs'. She said 'erbs'. I thought this was purely American slang but according to Alan Davidson's Oxford Companion to Food, until the 19th century, the word was pronounced with a silent 'h' on both sides of the Atlantic. The usage now survives only on American shores.
Summer brings an abundance of sweet smelling herbs. Melissa officinalis, known as lemon balm, balm, common balm or balm mint, is often a flavouring for ice cream and herbal teas, sometimes in combination with other herbs. It is also frequently used in fish dishes, fruit salads and is the key ingredient in lemon balm pesto. The leaves have a gentle lemon scent and can be used in place of lemon peel in recipes.
Parsley — the most popular of herbs — has curly leaves or flat. The latter is often called Italian parsley and has a more robust flavour. Curly parsley is great deep-fried for use as a garnish.
Coriander, also known as cilantro, chinese parsley or dhania, is native to Southern Europe, Northern Africa and Southwestern Asia. Its leaves are flat and similar in shape to flat-leaf parsley. However, the whole plant can be used. The roots – they look a little like baby parsnips – are excellent ground and added to soups or sauces. Both coriander leaves and stems are excellent for flavouring and garnishing salads, soups and stews.
Anise-flavoured fennel fronds are tasty in salads and added to stronger-flavoured fish dishes. Layer fennel fronds and fish and wrap in foil then bake or barbecue. The bulb can be shredded and tossed with a vinaigrette as a super side salad for fish.
Fish wrapped in herbs
Serves 4
This delicious fish can be cooked on an oiled barbecue plate or in the microwave.
½ cup finely chopped mixed herbs eg, coriander, parsley, mint, basil
Flaky sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
700g skinned and boned white fish fillets
2 Tbsp grapeseed oil
25g butter, melted (optional)
Juice 1 lemon (optional)
- Combine the herbs, salt and pepper. Press on to both sides of the fish. Place on a large sheet of plastic film and wrap up. Refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
- Unwrap the fish. Either cook on an oiled barbecue plate for about 3 minutes each side, depending on thickness, or place in a microwave dish, drizzle with oil, cover and microwave for 5 minutes, until cooked. May be served drizzled with a little butter and lemon juice.
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Mussels steamed with lemon balm
Serves 4
1 kg mussels in their shells (about 40)
2 spring onions, sliced diagonally
3 Tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 Tbsp finely sliced root ginger
½ cup lemon balm leaves
¾ cup dry white wine
Extra lemon balm leaves to garnish
- Scrub the mussels well in cold water and cut off any beards.
- Crisp the sliced spring onion in iced water.
- Heat the oil in a very large saucepan, add the garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the mussels, lemon balm and wine. Cover and cook over moderate heat, shaking occasionally, until the mussels open, about 5-8 minutes (discard any mussels that do not open, although those that are slightly open are okay).
- Place the mussels in bowls and top with juices and drained spring onion. Garnish.
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Parsley butter bean topping
Serves 4-6
The term ‘butter bean’ refers to a large, flat and creamy variety of lima bean either dried that is soaked then cooked, or ready to use in cans. They have a soft, floury texture when cooked.
2-3 cloves garlic
½ teaspoon salt
425g can butter beans, drained and rinsed
2 Tbsp lemon juice
¼ cup each: extra virgin olive oil, flat-leaf parsley leaves
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
- Mash the garlic and salt together with the blade of a heavy knife. Place all the ingredients in a food processor. Pulse until the mixture is smooth.
- Great served as a topping for pan-fried or steamed fish or as a dip for crisp veggies.
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Fennel and orange salmon
Serves 4
¼ cup orange juice
2 tsp finely grated orange rind
¼ tsp fennel seeds
Salt and pepper to taste
4 (500g) skinned boned salmon fillets
1 Tbsp rice bran oil
¼ cup finely chopped fennel fronds
- Combine the orange juice, orange rind, fennel seeds and salt and pepper in a shallow dish. Coat the salmon on both sides in the mixture then cover and marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes, turning once.
- Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan. Pan-fry the salmon on medium heat for about 3 minutes each side, depending on the thickness. Add the fennel during the last minute of cooking.
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