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By NAOMI MAHON

As New Zealand's second Fashion Week enjoys global attention, savvy designers are riding its publicity wave to increase awareness of their brands.

Participating in such shows as L'Oreal Fashion Week can cost tens of thousands of dollars, and many designers do not expect an immediate sales gain.

For high-profile label Zambesi, participating in the event is largely a branding exercise.

Since it was established more than 20 years ago, Zambesi has climbed to the top of New Zealand's high-end fashion market. Export sales grew 30 per cent last year.

But, says director Neville Findlay, Zambesi does not take part in Fashion Week to generate quick returns. Rather, it uses the event to maintain its position in the local market and promote its brand personality.

Taking part is expensive - about $75,000 this year, he says.

Zambesi's individual show is sponsored by Volkswagen, Nokia and haircare company KMS, and without that support, says Findlay, it would be impossible to stage.

"At this stage of our maturity there isn't a lot of new business to be gained.

"The fact is most buyers are from Australia and New Zealand and most of them we would see anyway."

He sees Zambesi's participation in Fashion Week as a way to support the local industry and says the profile gained by its association with the event is invaluable.

"All brands have different personalities," says Findlay, who describes Zambesi's personality as one with irony, wit, humour and integrity.

"Doing Fashion Week lets us communicate what our personality is.

"We're not out to gain an extra 30 per cent market share each year - then we'd be like Country Road and wouldn't be Zambesi anymore."

Pieter Stewart, the driving force behind Fashion Week, says Sabatini was a good example of an established label whose profile soared after last year's inaugural event.

"It can happen with anyone at any time. It doesn't have to be a new label. It can be an established label that takes another leap."

But she says the importance of branding also applies to smaller designers.

"Some of them might not quite understand the value of branding but it gives them that kick right out there."

Dunedin designer Tanya Carlson's sales leaped after last year's Fashion Week.

Her range caught the attention of influential fashion writer Hilary Alexander of Britain's Daily Telegraph and Sunday Times.

Since last winter Carlson's revenue has jumped 80 per cent.

She says the event enabled her to show her label in a way she wanted it interpreted.

"When you have your name on a label and people are buying a name, they want to be able to somehow identify with it."

Emerging Christchurch designer Jonathon Hall is using Fashion Week to launch his new range.

The event, he says, is as much about making his label known as it is about selling clothes.

The entry fee for a new-generation show - tailored for up-and-coming designers - is $2500.

Hall believes he will end up spending much more but feels it is worth it.

Christchurch label Tango, designed by Malaika Grove and Vicky Wynn-Williams, is taking part in Fashion Week for the first time.

Wynn-Williams says one of the main reasons is to present their collection as they envisage it.

She says they are happy with their hold on the New Zealand market.

"There could be a little bit of growth but there are only certain places that we fit.

"But the more attention given to us at Fashion Week the better for our stockists and we do see that as important."

Stewart says the decision to provide designers with media training this year was also to help designers manage their brand.

"We want them to come across as confident and be able to deliver some of the sound-bites they'd like to."

Last year's event boosted the entire fashion industry, she says.

"It's taken much more seriously now as a strong export-earner.

"And potentially the industry could be even stronger."