Cutting it finer than ever on Savile Row

Designer Joe Casely-Hayford likes to let his work speak for itself. Picture / Paul Bliss

Not only does Gieves & Hawkes enjoy one of the most eminent addresses on the tailoring map - No 1 Savile Row, no less - the brand also commands global respect for its fascinating cultural and sartorial history.

Originally formed from the converging of two businesses - Gieves, founded in 1785, and Hawkes, established in 1771 - the company has been a holder of the Royal Warrant since 1809, in the reign of George III. It has supplied ceremonial dress for countless British and other state occasions; kitted out the Army and Navy; survived its former premises being bombed in the Blitz; and, of course, suited and booted generations of discerning men to the highest standards.

As with many established brands or fashion houses, however, it is essential that new blood be introduced to sustain a reputation and gain new devotees.

Indeed, a once sportswear-obsessed generation of young, style-conscious men is in thrall to the power of dressing sharply and they are an obvious market for the company to cater to, whether in bespoke or ready-to-wear.

Cue the designer Joe Casely-Hayford, long known for his artful combining of formal tailoring with references to style subcultures, eclectic music or art history, and thus the ideal choice as Gieves & Hawkes' new creative director.

Having come on board last year, his debut autumn/winter 2006 collection for the younger Gieves fashion line (originally launched in 2003) has confirmed that this is an appointment that makes perfect sense for a variety of reasons.

Born in Kent in 1956, the grandson and namesake of an eminent Ghanaian statesman, Casely-Hayford graduated from London's Tailor & Cutter Academy in the mid-1970s, and then studied with the legendary tailor Dougie Hayward before doing fashion design at Saint Martin's and a history of art course at the ICA.

He has been successfully showing his eponymous men's - and women's wear collections - in London and Paris since the last half of the 1980s. He has also enjoyed successful collaborations - working as a style consultant for Island Records; designing clothes for bands and musicians such as The Clash, Suede, U2, Liam Gallagher and Lou Reed; and hooking up with the artist Chris Ofili to produce a range of limited-edition T-shirts.

Also, he was the first ever designer to collaborate with Topshop, producing a phenomenally popular collection for the high-street chain back in 1993, and has seen his designs exhibited in prestigious galleries and museums worldwide, including the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and London's V&A. A mind-blowing CV by any standards.

Today, dressed in neatly pressed dark jeans and a vibrant red V-neck jumper, the youthful-looking, softly spoken Casely-Hayford seems at home, sitting by a roaring log fire in Gieves & Hawkes' elegant drawing room. But surely even a designer of his calibre and versatility must have felt slightly daunted by the task at hand?

"It was daunting, of course," he says, smiling. "There's a huge tradition to respect here, the archive is amazing and the reputation of this company internationally is incredible. But without being conceited, I feel comfortable in my role here because I have a clear vision and good understanding of Gieves & Hawkes, and I can see where it will be positioned in five or 10 years' time.

"For me, it's the perfect collaboration, there's a real synergy. It's important to respect the tradition of the brand, but to bring a new lightness into the company, and combine craftsmanship and technology so the product is contemporary.

"For a long time, I think Savile Row tailors were quite complacent and people were trapped into the idea of things being stuffy and formal. But over the last 20 years, that notion has become outmoded. People's lives are different and their requirements have changed significantly.

"For a Savile Row company to be relevant today, it must address these changes. What I am bringing in is a lighter way of thinking."

Casely-Hayford's revolution is quietly purposeful. , Despite having been innovative during his 30-year career - producing deconstructed clothing 15 years before Martin Margiela made it his trademark - he is not the sort to blow his own trumpet, preferring to "let the work speak for itself", as he puts it.

So, with regards to his role at Gieves & Hawkes, he is little concerned with the fashion industry's insatiable need for novelty and hype, acknowledging that men generally like to invest in clothes that are fresh and contemporary but also have a lifespan beyond just one season.

"I'm interested in the idea of 'slow clothing', a more considered approach to producing collections, rather than making radical changes every six months.

"And that approach works well in this environment - having a consistency and integrity gives men belief in a product. I believe it's important to establish a very strong signature, and to evolve gradually."

- INDEPENDENT