Aristocrat of fibres takes NZ firm to UK

Silkbody managing director Emily Cooper shows off some of the garments. Picture / Otago Daily Times

Chinese emperors knew the advantages of wearing silk, fiercely guarding knowledge of its production for centuries.

Four years ago, the benefits of the natural fibre were harnessed by Dunedin-based clothing maker Silkbody for its range of active wear.

Now the Brits are cottoning on.

Silkbody has broken into the competitive UK market - its garments now stocked by the largest independent mountain sports retailer, Ellis Brigham Mountain Sports.

"Acceptance into the UK is a huge milestone for us; the UK and Europe representing some of the world's largest consumer markets," said managing director Emily Cooper.

"It shows we are considered to be in the same league as the established international brands, which is very exciting.

"There is a huge amount of choice available to retailers in the UK, so to secure this deal, we believe, means Silkbody is something special."

The aristocrat of fibres, silk had fantastic properties few clothing makers had tapped, said Cooper.

A lightweight, natural protein fibre, silk worked like a second skin with high moisture absorption and anti-bacterial properties. Its ability to "breathe" helped provide an optimum temperature for the wearer in hot and cold conditions, making it ideal for sportswear.

Launched in 2002, Silkbody was originally pitched at the outdoor adventure and travel markets, however the luxury element of the garments has seen them find a following in the fashion market.

Silkbody is stocked in 60 stores in New Zealand including Bivouac, Snow Centre, Living Simply, and Smith & Caughey's.

The company also exports to Australia where it has a distribution agreement with Newcastle-based sports distributor Adventure Extreme.

Long-sleeved crews, which retail for $130, are the top selling item and 2500 were produced last year. .

Button-through cardigans for women were also popular and accessories such as gloves and scarves "going crazy" at this time of year.

Silkbody is a father-and-daughter team with Cooper, 27, working alongside her father David in the business, which employs two others.

The venture evolved out of David's previous business importing silk liners for sleeping bags.

The popularity of the Silksak made him keen to explore a wider range of silk products, and he teamed up with Emily, then a graduate in clothing and textile science from the University of Otago, to develop the clothing.

Five years on, Emily said although she never envisaged joining her father in business, Silkbody provided the perfect combination of her love for textiles and design.

One of her recent innovations is Silkfleece - a 100 per cent silk dual-layer fabric consisting of pure silk fleece and silk knit, designed to be worn as a mid-layer garment.

This winter the SilkSideIn knitwear range was also introduced, which is half-silk and half-woollen, with the silk worn next to the skin.

The original Silkspun fibre, used for the basic thermal and everyday garments is 72 per cent silk, 13 per cent wool and 15 per cent cotton.

The Coopers went straight to China to find a manufacturer "because they've been producing silk garments for centuries", said Emily.

It took 18 months to develop the products and they met a ready market among the outdoor stores stocking Silksaks nationally.

Last year the company commissioned New Zealand Trade & Enterprise to do a market study on the UK market, which helped get the wheels in motion for the deal with Ellis Brigham.

"Growth into export markets is where our company is headed and we are keen to take this New Zealand brand to the world," said Cooper.

NZTE's trade commissioner to London, Michelle Templar, said accessibility of budget travel and the appeal of a healthy lifestyle incorporating exercise was fuelling the leisure wear and outdoor clothing market in the UK as consumers opted for lightweight, practical and multipurpose clothing.

"The UK outdoor clothing market is incredibly competitive and top retailers like Ellis Brigham only take on new brands they really believe have the potential to be top sellers," said Templar. "Silkbody is a unique, top quality and well-styled product that has a sound brand identity and that is exactly what it takes to get into this market."