Leek and watercress soup

Wind, rain, freezing nights. It's definitely soup weather. Today's recipe takes its inspiration from a French classic named Soupe a la bonne femme (or Soup just like mum makes).
Whereas the original simply simmers leeks and potatoes in seasoned water then purees them, we have used stock as the cooking medium, adding watercress and coriander to spice up the flavour. Serve as a starter with toast, or as a lunch or supper dish with thick slices of crusty bread, perhaps followed by a platter of fruit and cheese. In summer, the soup can be served chilled.

2 Tbsps pure olive oil 4 leeks, white part only, sliced
1 medium onion, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, peeled, snapped, destringed, sliced thinly
1 clove garlic, part-crushed, chopped
2 medium potatoes, peeled, diced
500ml chicken or vegetable stock
generous handful watercress, chopped roughly
3-4 stalks coriander, chopped 
Half cup milk 
Half cup cream
salt and white pepper
Heat the oil in a large pot and add the leeks, onions, celery and garlic. Stir, then cover and sweat over very low heat for about 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add the potatoes and stock and simmer for 10-12 minutes, until the potatoes are soft.
Add the watercress and coriander and cook a further minute. Use either a stick blender to puree the mixture in the pot, or let it to cool slightly before pureeing it in a blender or food processor then return the puree to the pot.
Stir in the milk and cream, season to taste, bring back to just below boiling point and serve in warmed bowls.
Serves 4
Wine match

Soup is difficult to match with wine because we are partnering one liquid with another. Chardonnay with a minimal amount of oak suits this dish reasonably well, but the trick is to chill it only lightly. Around 15 minutes in the refrigerator will do fine. Otherwise, the temperature contrast between bowl and glass is too great. Among recent releases that would do the job well are Spy Valley Unoaked Chardonnay 2008, a peach and citrus-edged Marlborough wine with uncomplicated flavours, good richness through the middle and a lively finish. It sells for around $18. A little more complex, but still direct enough not to clash with the soup, Stoneleigh Marlborough Chardonnay 2008 has fresh bread and grapefruit aromas leading to a smooth, ripe-fruited flavour. The recommended price is just over $20, but you might find it on special for less. Moving to the North Island, look for Instinct Hawkes Bay Chardonnay 2007, from a second-label collection by the C J Pask winery. With aromas that suggest lemon peel and All-Bran and plenty of appealingly spice-edged citrus and peach flavours, it offers a lot of liquid enjoyment for its $17 price tag.