NZ walks: From Ruapehu’s Chateau to Mangahuia Campsite

Taupō's Monday Walkers tackle the 13.5km track from the Chateau to Mangahuia Campsite.

What a fantastic day we had on Monday. We walked the 13.5-kilometre track from the Chateau to Mangahuia Campsite.

This route has a liquorice allsorts character. One moment groomed and gravelled, occasionally boardwalked, but largely rutted, boggy and muddy.

We left the Bruce Road, crossed the bridged Whakapapanui Stream, ignored the tidy-looking track to Silica Rapids and were soon heading up and down rocky slopes.

One particularly long slope was even titled Slippery Gully.

We had great views out to the west through the vantage point between the v-shaped gullies.

Sedate stretches of boardwalk wound across tussock and contrasted with deeply cut-out sections of trail lined with treacherous mud.

Taupō's Monday Walkers tackle the 13.5km track from the Chateau to Mangahuia Campsite.

A strong, long, wooden bridge crossed one swiftly flowing river but there were still a few small streams to wobble across on conveniently placed rocks.

We saw many kaikawaka dangling stringy ribbons of bark and drooping flower panicles hanging from the succulent-leafed tōī, or mountain cabbage trees.

Perhaps our noise disturbed many of the birds, but we did hear riroriro singing, the screech of the long-tailed cuckoo or koekoeā and one walker heard the high-pitched call of a titīpounamu.

We left the track where it continued to the Whakapapaiti Hut and made our way across the boggy ground in the direction of the Mangahuia campsite some kilometres away.

Ash and pumice cause poor soil drainage, and it seemed every step we took had to be carefully considered if wet feet or a slip into a tussock-concealed hole were to be avoided.

A wooden, weather-worn, lichen-encrusted sign pointed us towards Mahuia Camp. Confusing, but apparently an abbreviation once used for Mangahuia Campsite.

Taupō's Monday Walkers tackle the 13.5km track from the Chateau to the Mangahuia Campsite.

Low-growing green, red and brown tussock eventually gave way to beech forest. Here short stretches of the track were surfaced with their confetti-like leaves, but many slippery steep sections were encountered before we reached the crossing point of the Mangahuia River.

Crossing is not advised when heavy rain or high runoff has occurred.

We approached with caution but need not have worried. Two strategically placed human anchors, and much crowd encouragement, had everyone safely across the fast current with no casualties apart from sopping, squelching boots.

We stopped for a chocolate fish award before it was on to mud, mud and more glorious mud. Not so glorious for the walker who managed a spectacular sinking and amid much hilarity was dragged out with their boots still laced on.

From then on the path resembled a muddy watercourse. Some chose to balance along the raised edge or skirt around the drier undergrowth, while others decided their boots were so dirty they might as well paddle straight up the middle of the channel.

As the forest turned into scrubbier kānuka, sections of boardwalk and gravel reappeared, and our destination came into sight.

We arrived damp and dirty after a great day, full of variety, challenge and fun.

Next week we have a shorter local walk planned. If you would like to join us on a Monday, or for more information, please email walkersmondaytaupo@gmail.com