Travel: Krakow, Poland

Krakow, Poland's treasure chest of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, celebrates its 755th birthday this year.

Miraculously, this area of Central Europe emerged from the ravages of World War II relatively unscathed. Krakow's citizens are a life-loving lot. There's a natural, relaxed ambience in the city, underscored by an exuberant nightlife.

For a first-time visitor, almost everything you want to see is packed into the Old Town. Adorning the hilltop of Wawel, the Royal Castle endures as Poland's landmark, having served as the seat of kings since the nation's opening chapter. Wawel Cathedral, a mighty Gothic structure, dates back to 1364 and has witnessed many lavish state occasions, from coronations to funerals. The castle was sacked over the centuries, chiefly by the Swedish and Prussian armies.

Following World War I a concerted restoration project started and continued until the outbreak of World War II. The labour of love resumed after the Nazi occupation and the castle is again a triumphant salute to its timeless glory.

If you are travelling with children, the Legendary Krakow tour is a family favourite. Visitors enjoy legends that include the Dragon's Den that is just below the Wawel Castle, and the Bell of the Drunken Men.

The main market square, Rynek Glowny, is Europe's largest medieval town square, based on the layout of a Roman military camp. My favourites are the Cloth Hall or Sukiennice, once home to the Middle Ages rag trade. The eye-catching Town Hall Tower, dating from the 15th century, can be climbed in the summer months and the panoramic views are a delight. At the northern end of the square, the Krakow City History Museum presents an absorbing and comprehensive timeline of the city's story from 1257 to World War II. A real crowd-pleaser is the Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady, also referred to as St Marys or Mariacki. This twin-tower church houses a veritable gallery of exquisite art. I just adore the altarpiece, a riot of elaborately carved, painted and gilded limewood. I've always had a fascination for medieval fortifications and Krakow's Florian Gate is a stunning remnant of the old defensive walls built 700 years ago.

For a complete change of scenery, revel in the atmospheric bar, cafe and nightlife scene. My top two are Propaganda and Demmers Teahouse. Propaganda is a nostalgic cafe, replete with communist propaganda, banners and mementos. Great fun.

Demmers Teahouse is a Viennese-style teahouse, bursting with 130 varieties served in a 13th-century cellar.