Holiday destinations: Edin on the hill

Autumn's tree-cloaked finery is out in force, as Mother Nature readies us for the descent into winter.

Boost your seasonal spirits by taking the plunge into the hot-tub of hearty southern hospitality, with a delightful sojourn in Dunedin.

Our compact southern city punches well above its weight in the tourist stakes.

Indeed, I think you'd be hard-pressed to find a comparably sized city that serves up such a feast of fabulously distinctive visitor experiences.

Wildlife aficionados are richly blessed with flippered possibilities. That's best left for an article of its own, later. But it's the heritage attractions which had my heart aflutter on my last rendezvous with Edin on the Hill (the old Celtic name for Edinburgh), particularly given the devastating destruction of so much of the character architecture in Christchurch, my hometown.

Top of the bill for me, lovely, lofty Larnach Castle. It had been 20 years since I had visited the stately property, which was built in 1871 by the goldrush-flush banker, William Larnach.

Dripping in drama and myriad stories, the sprawling property was bought by the Barker family 45 years ago. They have lovingly restored the castle and developed its spacious grounds to a state of majestic glory.

A variety of admission options are on offer but, trust me, set aside time to explore both the unremittingly beautiful landscaped gardens and the extensive interior of the castle. Complement your castle experience with a perusal of one of New Zealand's finest "old house" experiences, Olveston, just down the road from Larnach.

The 35-room historic home, completed in 1906, was commissioned by a Jewish immigrant, David Theomin.

The landmark Jacobean-style manor is clad in Moeraki gravel and Oamaru stone. Bequeathed to the city of Dunedin in 1966, Olveston has a magic about it that crystallises the sense of high society living from a century ago. The "lived-in" feel of the house, and its authentic, cluttered charm, leaves you wondering if the Theomins have just popped out for the day.

Like those at Larnach Castle, the tour guides at Olveston vividly bring the property to life with engrossing story-telling.

For a complete change of scenery, get your chocolate fix by following the flock to Cadbury World. The high-frequency factory tours are crackers, guided primarily by colourful university students.

If you time your Dunedin visit with the July school holidays, the annual Chocolate Festival will be in full flight. It includes the world-famous Jaffa Roll down Baldwin St, which Guinness has recognised as the world's steepest residential road.

My other top tips for your tick-list would be Dunedin Railway Station, a period architectural triumph that has been adapted beautifully to modern times. This also houses the New Zealand Sports Hall of Fame. Take a guided tour of Forsyth Barr Stadium, quench your thirst at Speights Brewery and admire the Chinese Garden.