Address: 53 Nelson Street
Phone: (09) 302 2665
Website: totorestaurant.co.nz
When I was growing up and the height of culinary sophistication was a prawn cocktail followed by a carpetbag steak, people would usually go out to dinner only for a special occasion. Everyone would get dressed up.
While we applaud that eating out is now part of normal routine for many people - although who knows what this year might bring - there is still something pleasant about dressing up, a fact lost on some whose idea of dressing for dinner is changing their T-shirt.
Recently we had a special occasion of the old style so got done up and went out to dinner, and it was delight to see everyone else in the room had done the same.
Toto is the kind of place you make a bit of an effort for - although nothing in the restaurant's demeanour suggested you'd be treated as anything other than a special guest if you hadn't.
We chose Toto because Megan's parents had come to town to celebrate with us, and a few years ago we'd all spent a memorable time in Italy together. Toto, with its blend of traditional and contemporary Italian food, excellent wine list and easy ambience was the ideal choice. And on Saturday nights they have opera - four brackets, two songs in each - which punctuated our pleasant evening.
Although some may find the opera a little on the intrusive side (inevitably there was a short burst of Happy Birthday in Italian - another table also having a "special occasion"), I wonder if it had happened in a restaurant in Florence would the cynics be so sniffy? I don't think so, they'd probably dine out on it when they got back home. Because we were out for an evening of conversation, reminiscing, fine dining and good wines, we took our time.
Over the night Megan's father and I slowly worked our way through a bottle of excellent Antinori Peppoli chianti ($65). Megan and her mother ordered various white wines by the glass ($10 each) and we chatted, listened to the opera (as did everyone, in respectful silence) and paced ourselves through a fine antipasto ($32.50) which was just a little on the small side for four, I thought.
I was the only one who ordered a separate primi piatti - a superb, salty and generous spaghetti alle vongole ($20.50) - and a main course, but the conversation and opera flowed and I suspect no one at the table even noticed I was the only one eating at that point. But the others certainly ate with pleasurable enthusiasm when their primi piatti-sized dishes arrived along with my main of lightly battered, succulent veal, vitello con pepperoni ($36.50).
Megan and her mother both had "divine, rich and fragrant" risotto with scallops ($21.50), and her father thoroughly enjoyed his chicken cannelloni ($20.50).
Although it may look like I got more than my share - in this instance I make no apologies for gluttony or an appetite - the others were more than satisfied with the sizes of their dishes, leaving enough room for sublime and substantial desserts of mandarin pannacotta, tiramisu and rum baba with pineapple. This was a wonderful meal which complimented our special occasion and the opera was a delightful bonus.
Even if it isn't a celebration when you go out for dinner at Toto, it isn't a bad idea to get dressed up. In a way, that is its own reward. Toto will take care of the rest.
Out of 10
Food: 9
Service: 9
Value: 8
Ambience: 9
Our meal: Shared antipasto and breads, four primi piatti, one main, three deserts, one bottle of chianti, six glasses of wine, soft drink.
Wine list: Excellent, from the modestly priced to corporate salary options.
Verdict: Fine food, friendly and slightly formal atmosphere, opera on Thursdays and Saturdays.
