Tricks of the trade

Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydramist. Photo / Supplied

Drop-dead gorgeous models don't just drop from the sky, they're primed, painted and prettified, sometimes for hours. Then hurriedly stripped bare for the process to begin again for those walking in several shows in one day.

Teams of makeup artists and hairstylists descend upon them to create a concept to realise the designer's overall vision. They know all the shortcuts, so they can turn a host of teenage models into anything from a goddess to a gangster's moll with the wave of a makeup brush and the twirl of a curling tong. The products they use have to stand up to heat, lights, quick changes, and harsh scrutiny so they're the best in the business and work well offstage too.

1. KMS California Hairplay Makeover Spray $34.50

Greg Murrell of Ryder is styling hair for Zambesi, Stolen Girlfriends, Huffer and more this week. He says this KMS spray is "invaluable" backstage. "It is, in effect, a dry shampoo." With a base of rice powder it helps soak up oils from product build-up in models' hair from previous shows. "From a consumer point of view, it is useful for those people who would like to freshen up their hair, but do not wish to shampoo it that day. It is also great to use on very fine hair when you are putting it up. It thickens it a little."

2. Dermalogica Antioxidant Hydramist $84.50 (as part of backstage treatment)

Models at several shows are being treated to a Dermalogica skin pep-up. It's similar to the speedy micro-zone treatments the brand offers at its flagship store at Westfield Albany and is designed to get models' skin looking plumped before they're made up. One of the goodies being used is Antioxidant Hydramist, which refreshes with white tea, liquorice and vitamin E to shield the skin from free radicals while bamboo and pea extract firms and boost hydration and vitamin C and peptides reduce the look of fine lines. Models' skins are often sensitised due to all the different makeup they wear and the stress they're under, so the overall treatment is designed to deal with reactive skins. First Dermalogica Precleanse is used to remove makeup, sunscreen and pollutants, then Ultra-calming Cleanser to combat sensitivity, followed by Hydramist, Multivitamin Power Firm for the lips and eyes and then Smoothing Cream Soothe for extra hydration before makeup is applied.

3. L'Oréal Texture Expert Smooth Ultime Discipline Creme $44 and MousseVolupte Magnifying Mousse $40

Emma Ecott, creative director for Servilles Takapuna and part of the Servilles team working on the Designer Selection shows says her favourite products for achieving runway-worthy hair come from L'Oreal's Texture Expert range. "The Mousse Volupte adds amazing volume and soft bounce, and is also perfect for creating beautiful, blow-waved curls and movement in the hair. Smooth Ultime is fabulous for people with thick hair who need to tame and transform wild tresses to a soft and silky, full-bodied look."

4. Smashbox Photo-Finish Color Correcting Foundation Primer $76

Primers give show skin a smooth, even base for colour. Smashbox adds skin goodies like Vitamins A and E into theirs and makes them clear or in skin-correcting tints. These primers really help foundation glide on, without needing too much, or you can just use blush or bronzer confident your skin texture looks great. Try this and you'll be hooked.

5. M.A.C Lip Erase Lip Balm in Dim $40

Ever wondered how models get such perfectly drawn defined lips, in gorgeous barely there or full-on colours? Wonder no more. First the make-up artist applies Lip Erase, a soothing base that acts as a concealer on natural lip pigment, allowing a new lipline to be drawn on and filled with a colour that stays true. If you've been struggling to find a nude that looks the shade you want, or if you find the dark shades you choose look different on your lips than when you tested them, then try this trick to make a blank canvas of your lips, before applying colour.

6. QVS 60 Assorted Individual Lashes $9.99

False lashes are often used in shows, frequently just on the outer edges of the eye, which is a great trick to open them up. Try this at home with economical QVS individual lashes and eyelash glue, or head to the M.A.C counter for a professional application.

7. M.A.C Cleansing Tips $30

M.A.C's senior makeup artist Amber Dreadon swears by these pre-soaked individually wrapped cotton buds for fixing "the dreaded smudge" during a model's outfit changes and for hurried makeup removal jobs. As well as being staples of her giant makeup kit, she also pops them into her own handbag. Another of Dreadon's favourite products for shows and real-life is M.A.C Fix + Spray ($38) with caffeine, cucumber and green tea, which revives tired-looking skin and makeup.

* Jane Iredale makes a similar makeup remover, called Dot the i at $49 for 50 swabs.

8. M.A.C Smolder Eye Kohl $34

To create the blackest rock 'n' roll eye for the runway, Amber Dreadon uses this soft pencil. She says it covers late-night, after-party tired eyes with ease. "One quick swoop along the inner-rim of the eye and makeup looks dramatic and finished."

9. Modelco ColourBox Eye Pencil in White $32

A white eye pencil applied to the upper lash line and the inner rim of your eye will brighten the overall eye appearance and make other eye colours "pop". The good thing about this one is it has its own sharpener built into the lid.

Stockists: KMS selected salons. Dermalogica, selected salons, Westfield Albany concept store, or www.dermalogica.co.nz. Smashbox from Smashbox Ponsonby Rd, selected Life pharmacies, or see www.smashbox.co.nz M.A.C Lip Erase and Cleansing Tips from M.A.C Pro store, Chancery and other items from there, and also M.A.C St Lukes or Smith & Caughey. Modelco, Farmers and selected pharmacies. QVS from pharmacies and department store stands. L'Oreal from selected salons and shampoo shops.