But though domestic brands dominate, international brands are sought after by local consumers. The main channel for sales is through top end hotels, restaurants, bars and nightclubs, accounting for about 35 per cent of total market volume, says NZTE.
With imports currently accounting for only 20 per cent of the domestic demand, NZTE sees huge export opportunities for New Zealand winemakers. According to Mr Bird, while the consumption per head is currently very low, within five years China could become the third biggest consuming company in the world, simply because of the population base.
Research into the behaviour of Western "millenials" - consumers who are coming of buying age now - suggests that when they enter the wine market they don't come in and build up to the national average, they come straight in at the national average and at a slightly higher price point, he said.
"They demand more information - they want to know more and they want to reach out to their wine guy," he said. "Well the Chinese millenials coming through are not really a lot different. They have this thing in their culture about loss of face. They want to be actively engaging people in this conversation about wine, but they don't want to get it wrong, so they're going out and doing wine courses, they're studying wine."
Mr Bird said that meant companies marketing wine in China had to be very careful what they told the market because the buyers were becoming knowledgeable.
"It's going to be a challenge for us," he said. Up until recently affluent Chinese consumers had been drinking the best labels they could get their hands on - Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, French cognacs, he said.
"They want all the expensive stuff with the great labels, because that gives them prestige. But we're going to see that change and when it does we will need to understand the flavour profile, and how they use the wine."
Mr Bird said that one of the things he had learned from visiting China, was that companies needed to be on the ground. "You've got to get in, understand the culture, and understand what these people like. And you're going to have to have someone in the marketplace all of the time."