Gone are the days when cosmetic procedures are the domain of only the rich and famous. Appearance medicine treatments such as Botox and fillers have entered the mainstream and more Bay women are using them as part of their regular beauty routine writes Annemarie Quill
But as they are procedures that require expertise and experience, it pays to do your research and go to the best.
indulge caught up with Skin Centre's Leanne Cashmore, who has been doing procedures on Bay women and men for more than 18 years.
If someone had never had any procedures like Botox or fillers, how would they decide which was appropriate? The best way to decide is by talking to your practitioner, who will give you some options and advise which is the best product to use for what area.
What is the best age to start such cosmetic procedures? People are starting Botox younger and younger as a preventative for expression lines forming. Starting by the time you are 40 is a reasonable age, although that is dependant on a lot of factors, ie genetics and lifestyle. Some people are still very youthful and don't need any help at 40, others are not so genetically blessed and are needing assistance much younger. I am seeing plenty of people these days in their 20s.
Is there any age that you can leave it "too late" , perhaps in your late 50s? Is that less achievable than if you started earlier? It is never too late to start with a little help, it may vary what we use and how much is needed but I treat people in their 80s.
How frequently do you need Botox? And fillers? Botox is around four-monthly. Fillers around yearly. These are approximate times. It depends on each individual.
What are the most common issues clients ask for help with and why? Worry lines and lip lines. Worry lines are a negative look that people really dislike and are ageing. The same for lip lines, they are vertical once again and ageing. These I usually treat with fillers.
Are more men using Botox and fillers and why? We have had an increase in men using Botox; I think men are taking more pride in their appearance, their wives are doing it and they realise for a small outlay they can soften that aged look, which can make a difference in getting some jobs, or if they are in the public eye a lot, they feel more confident.
Do people ask for a natural look? Do they fear that over-Botoxed look of some Hollywood stars? That is always the big question! Very few people want to look "done". It is a natural concern and stops a lot of people from trying it. Television reality stars are not a good ad for Botox and fillers. Unfortunately, people who have a lot of money can go a little too far. It doesn't have to look like that. Looking natural is important.
Can people tell if you have had Botox or fillers? Not if you don't want them to. If you want everything to be eliminated and nothing to move then it can be a bit of a give away. If you still want to move and want a natural look then no one can tell, honestly; most women don't tell their husband, or friends. It's that easy.
Would you say Botox is more cost expensive creams? Do any creams really work? Creams have their place in hydrating the skin, but will never do what Botox or fillers will do. It will not eliminate expression lines no matter what the label says.
There are creams out now that market themselves as the natural Botox (line-filling creams) or natural fillers (L'Oreal just brought one out saying it will fill your wrinkles), but really if women want to effectively reduce wrinkles, are Botox and fillers better than creams? The wrinkle creams may be a nice prep under makeup to fill some fine lines for the night but won't have any longevity. Don't buy them for getting rid of wrinkles, you will be disappointed. Botox and fillers don't even compare to creams.
Can Botox and fillers reverse signs of ageing? If someone has Botox and fillers and lips filled like I had, is the aim to take a certain amount of years off them? Or simply to give them a fresher and more rested look? I think it is giving you a fresher more rested look, giving you the best you. Think of it as a bit of maintenance. Like colouring your hair or whitening your teeth. Just a more improved you.
How do you know where to inject?
I've had years of training on top of my nursing training to know where to inject. It is really important to have good anatomy knowledge. I attend regular workshops and conferences.
What would you say to women who say they are afraid of pain/needles? It is a very quick procedure, the needles used are the smallest you can buy. You can close your eyes.
Do women keep Botox a secret or do you have clients happy to talk about it? There are still many who keep it a secret. A few people will talk about it and I love them for that! Other women love to hear that normal people do it and that they still look normal.
How does the filler in cheeks work, and how does filler correct lines in combination with Botox? Fillers can correct fine lines around the lips, but it is being used more and more to give volume in the cheeks. As we age we get flatter in the mid face and get volume by the jaw line. By restoring our cheeks with some volume, a very simple painless procedure, it gives a very youthful look.
Is the lip filler, Emervel, a new product to New Zealand and who is it suited for? There are new fillers being launched all the time. This filler is a new one from Galderma, a very reputable company that provides support which is integral for myself and the consumer. This filler is a lovely soft filler for lips and cheeks. It's beautiful to inject, with great results and minimal swelling. It is suitable for younger people who don't need structure but some volume in their lips or cheeks. Restylane filler is great for structure, where the support has gone and needs to be restored. The company has introduced the registered product range Emervel to widen the range it offers.
How can correcting asymmetries in lips change the overall look of someone? Everyone has asymmetries in their face/lips, some are quite obvious, not to everyone else, but more for the person who has it. It can be challenging to correct it and not always achievable. It is normal to have some asymmetry, the most beautiful people in the world have asymmetry.
With lip fillers, is the aim to restore the lip to how it used to look on the person when younger? Yes, restoring it to where it was a few years ago with any age is our aim. Our lips get smaller, less hydrated, lose their definition, causing lip lines and a dehydrated appearance.
Is your aim with lip filler to achieve a lip that no one would know it had lip filler but that the overall look of lips is improved? Absolutely.
Are people put off lip fillers by scary photos of celebs with big lips, and how can you reassure them? Yes, people think if you have your lips filled they are going to look like a Beverly Hills housewife. Showing photos can give some confidence. but as I tell them there are plenty of people out there who have had them done and you can't tell.
You say lips are your favourite thing to do - why? I have been filling lips for a long time and the techniques and products have changed over time. The products today are fantastic and beautiful to use. I think lip filling is underrated; having beautiful lips is as important as eyes. Clients are so happy afterwards because the results are so great. It's an area that gives great satisfaction to the client, which I love.
You have been in appearance medicine for 18 years? Why did you choose this career and what do you like about it? I started in theatre with Dr Salmon 18 years ago after working in a hospital. I always enjoyed the cosmetic surgery side of the practice, and had a good eye for facial aesthetics. After having children, I condensed my hours and ended up specialising in appearance medicine. It's a fast-growing, exciting industry that allows me to have autonomy in my job.
ANNEMARIE experienced Botox and Fillers at the Skin Centre with Leanne:
Over the past few months I had really felt my forehead 'moving' a lot. I have been a frowner since a child, just when thinking, writing or pretty much doing anything so those frown lines have had a good few years to become ingrained. Plus, when I smile, as my 8-year-old pointed out, I get "lots of cheeks", in other words, lines around the lip area. I am pretty happy with the shape of my lips but wouldn't mind a bit more fullness.
The biggest line that was bothering me was between my eyes. It feels so deep it is like a scar, so I asked Leanne about a filler there. However, she said she tried to avoid fillers in this area. Although the risk is minimal there are optic nerves there.
Feeling that blindness was not worth it to go wrinkle-free, Leanne suggested that Botox might do the trick anyway.
Botox is a trademark, so ask your practitioner what they are using. Leanne used Xeomin on me, a fully-registered botulinium toxin from Germany. It has recently been released in New Zealand. There are three on the market in New Zealand, Dysport, (English) Xeomin and Botox (American) and another is about to be launched from Asia.
Says Leanne: "They all do the same thing and they will all claim to be better than the others. I like to use products that have great support and ongoing training and have the best price point for the consumer. I honestly believe they all last about the same. They all have a good safety record. I am using all of them in my clinic."
We start off with the filler in the lips. Leanne assures me the look will be natural. They will still look like my lips, just more so. Leanne uses Emervel, another new product that is softer than other lip fillers used in New Zealand. It is designed for smooth integration into the delicate lip tissue to create beautiful-looking lips that are soft and natural. Emervel comes with local anaesthetic Lidocaine included for a more comfortable treatment experience as the lips are highly sensitive, although Leanne suggests an anaesthetic too, which I gratefully accept.
After the anaesthetic is injected in the lips, I feel no pain. Leanne works around the lip contour and on the lips and on the flesh of the lips. They do swell and feel quite large when they are numb from the anaesthetic, but I take an antihistamine and put ice packs on for several hours. Leanne says it can take 48 hours for swelling and bruising to disappear but in fact the next day there is no swelling and no bruising at all - my lips look natural, just more defined and fuller. Love them, very happy.
I am very happy with the look achieved. I look fresher, more relaxed.
Leanne also uses some filler in one cheek where it is slightly hollowed out. Everyone has a face that is asymmetrical to a certain extent and fillers can help adjust this.
To the untrained eye no one would notice, but Leanne is pleased she has balanced out my cheeks more.
Then she sets to work on the Botox. No anaesthetic for this and you do feel a pinprick but it is not painful and over in no time.
It takes up to two weeks for the muscles to stop moving thus removing the wrinkles - they would never be gone completely and this suits me as I do not want an over-frozen look, just really for the lines not to be so ingrained that people think I am worried.
Again, I am very happy with the look achieved. I look fresher, more relaxed. No one would know that you've had Botox or fillers, but they will notice that you just look better, more yourself, less tired, and yes, dare we say it, a little bit younger. And who doesn't want that?
Botox lasts three to six months depending on the client but it is a good idea to have a check up after three months. Filler lasts typically 12 to 18 months, but again check after 12.
I am very pleased with the result and will not only be back, but when friends do ask if I can recommend anyone for Botox and fillers, she is my go-to.