Richard McNabb returned from pearl diving in Western Australia and now takes locals to the islands off their backyard. Photo / Alison Smith
Richard McNabb returned from pearl diving in Western Australia and now takes locals to the islands off their backyard. Photo / Alison Smith
Spending 13 hours a day swimming under a 100ft boat while filling a bag with wild pearl shells ensured Richard McNabb and Hayden Smith know the meaning of hard yakka.
The pair met each other while working as pearl divers in Western Australia in 2015.
Divers are plugged into an air hose connected to a compressor aboard the boat above them, and tethered to weights that sink to just above the seafloor.
With eight guys in the water at a time, they pick wild pearl shells to put in bags clipped to their bodies. Diving to depths of more than 35m, there are only four guys under the boat.
Shifts are 13 hours a day, nine or 10 days in a row, before rest days when the seas are in spring-tide phase.
"We went overseas seeking adventure and to make a small fortune as every man desires," says Richard. "You need to leave for a little while when you're from a small town, it's not good to stay in the same small town forever."
Richard is from Tairua, permanent population around 1500, and was amazed to find Hayden Smith on the same dive boat. Hayden hailed from 20 minutes up the road, in Hahei.
"Diving is definitely physical but it's mentally tough too," says Richard. "You're in your own head a lot and you only get paid per shell that you find so it's extremely competitive.
"We realised we were neighbours and couldn't believe we hadn't met before. Naturally two Kiwi boys stuck together and we've been friends ever since."
This spring they launched Coromandel Ocean Adventures, a charter and scenic boat cruise business focused on sharing the beauty of the coastline mostly within striking distance of Hahei, Tairua and Pauanui, to a domestic market.
Hayden says the pair have spent a lifetime enjoying the ocean environment but the wonder never stops.
"The Aldermens are one of the crown jewels of coastal islands in New Zealand, its geology is amazing, as is its fauna. It's also sacred taonga," he says.
"There are people that have driven over Pumpkin Hill [north of Tairua] a thousand times and looked at the Aldermens but never been there. Not everyone has access to a boat, so for us to provide a safe, fun marine experience felt really important."
It is strictly forbidden to land on the islands.
Richard McNabb and Hayden Smith of Coromandel Ocean Adventures. Photo / Alison Smith
The clear water allows visitors to glimpse into the underwater world of what's known to be one of the best open-water dive sites in New Zealand.
Primarily showcasing the geology from up-close at sea, boat trips can cater to those seeking to snorkel if booked for a half-day charter.
The islands of Hongiora, Ruamahua-iti, The Spire and Ruamahua-nui are evidence of widespread volcanic activity, estimated to have been about 8 million years ago.
There is evidence of seasonal occupation by Māori, and birds would have provided an important food source. The white cliffs are illuminated by late-afternoon sun, and would have been important navigational aids.
Captain Cook named the islands The Court of Aldermen as he sailed by in 1769 on his first voyage of discovery to Aotearoa. The islands have been protected since 1933, and in 1969, Māori gifted the islands to the people of Aotearoa New Zealand.
According to Ngati Hei tradition, the Ruamahua Islands were named in commemoration of the epic southern voyage of the ancient ill-fated Waitaha 0 Hei ancestors, Tama-Rere-Tii and his crew.
The surrounding waters are part of the Hauraki Gulf Maritime Park.
Hayden and Richard said Thames-Coromandel District Council and marina founder Craig Watts helped the pair get established, wanting to support small businesses out of the Tairua marina.
"It's definitely a bold move starting a tourism business now, but it's a good chance to iron out the kinks and show the local people what's here, and that's really cool," Hayden says.
About the islands Lying about 20km off the coast of Tairua and Pauanui, the Aldermen Islands are an important nature reserve and wildlife sanctuary made up of four main islands and many uncharted volcanic spires.
The waters are clear, and the steep rocky forms rise up to 200m from the sandy sea bed offering a spectacular "skyscraper" experience to divers navigating the spires. Some visitors describe the feeling of being in "Jurassic Park".
Covered with regenerating bush, the islands are rich with wildlife. Bright blue nudibranch molluscs cling to the sheer rock faces above the tide line, and the motionless prehistoric forms of tuatara can be seen sunning themselves atop the ridges.
