Monteith's Wild Food Challenge is in full swing, with restaurants and bars all over the country competing to use the most extreme wild food from their area.
The idea behind this challenge is simply that chefs are encouraged to stalk, trap, catch and cook from within their local area. Sounds great, and in the hands of many of the talented chefs out there, it is. The trick is to show imagination and skill in equal measure while avoiding roadkill. I can't wait to taste the results of this year's challenge winner. I encourage you to try something different.
So, in homage to the challenge, this week's recipe is all about venison. I'm using the backstrap because, for the new convert to this wonderful, unadulterated lean meat, it is the easiest to cook well and needs the least preparation. Like all meat, venison needs to be well hung (no, that's not a joke). The hanging should be for at least a week to make the meat flavoursome and soft. Proper hanging makes venison one of the best meats to eat, while insufficient hanging can put people off it for life.
Venison is one of those rich, gamey flavours that can handle a bit of creativity in the accompanying sauce. It works well with berry fruit or, in this case, high-quality chocolate. The idea is to add just enough chocolate to the sauce for you to smell it without really tasting it. After all, we eat with all of our senses.
Venison loin with chocolate sauce and spiced red cabbage
Serves 4
Ingredients
- 1 backstrap (loin or saddle) venison
- "Mire-poix" of root vegetables - eg, carrot, onion, leek, garlic, peeled and chopped into small dice
- 15ml groundnut oil
- 1 cup red wine
- 1 cup ruby port
- 1 litre game stock (or beef stock)
- 2 pistoles bittersweet chocolate (70 per cent cocoa)
- Spiced red cabbage
- 900g firm red cabbage
- 450g granny smith apples
- 225g onions
- 110g butter
- 2 garlic cloves
- 1/4 tsp each: powdered nutmeg, allspice, cinnamon, thyme, caraway seeds
- 275ml red wine
- 2 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 2 tbsp brown sugar
- 100g sultanas or raisins
- Juice and grated rind of 2 oranges
- Salt and pepper
Shred cabbage finely and toss in melted butter. In a casserole dish, layer cabbage, apple, onion and orange rind. Sprinkle each layer with salt, pepper and sugar. Pour over red wine, vinegar, orange juice and spices. Cover and bake at 190C for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, saute mire-poix in the oil until softened. Add red wine and reduce. Add port and reduce. Add stock and bring to boil. Strain through muslin.
Sear venison, then place in a 200C oven for five to eight minutes (depending on size). Allow to rest for at least 10 minutes. To serve, reheat sauce, add chocolate and allow to melt slowly. Season to taste. Serve with venison and spiced cabbage.
