Recipes: A river rules my kitchen

A monkfish on ice. Photo / Thinkstock

Estuary summer fish casserole

2 monkfish fillets
2 blue moki fillets
68 fillets of small estuary fish such as yellow-eyed mullet or spotties
20 cockles, clams or pipis, or 12 mussels
50ml olive oil
1 leek, diced
a pinch of chilli flakes
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1/3 cup white wine
1 small potato, peeled and finely diced
1 bulb fennel, diced (keep any feathery fronds to use as garnish)
6 tomatoes, chopped
1 tsp orange zest
a good pinch of New Zealand saffron
1 litre water
1 bay leaf
a few sprigs of fresh thyme
salt and freshly ground black pepper
cup fresh herbs such as Italian parsley, chives or chervil, roughly chopped

Method
This is a simplified version of the great bouillabaisse from the south of France. The amount of seafood obviously depends on the fish available in your area, and the success of the day's catch, but the aim is to use what has been caught. The varieties will not diminish the aim or enjoyment of this dish - and even if you only have a couple of varieties this dish is still worth cooking. This recipe uses some of the bones to produce a fuller flavour but if you have not retained them just omit this step. The key is to cook the firmer fish first and the smaller flaky fish at the end so the fillets do not break up.

Cut the large fillets into good chunky pieces. Keep a few of the fish bones - put them in a small metal sieve. Scrub the shellfish well (those green pot scrubbing pads are good for this). Put the oil into a large saute pan or wok. Add the leek, chilli flakes and garlic. Fry gently, then pour in the wine. Cook for a minute, then add the potatoes, tomatoes, fennel, orange zest and saffron. Simmer for a few minutes and add the water. Add the sieve containing the bones and simmer gently for 15 minutes, then remove. Put in the herbs, a little salt and some pepper. Add more water if the mixture reduces too much. Add the mussels and cover. When they start to open add the monkfish. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the cockles. When they open, add the smaller, softer fish fillets. Cook until these last fillets are ready, probably just 4-5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning as required. Sprinkle over any fennel fronds you may have and other green herbs.

To serve, place the whole saucepan on the middle of the table. Serve with toasted garlic bread, pour generous glasses of local wine and reflect on the day!
This recipe serves 4.

Apricot galette

1 sheet prepared flaky pastry, thawed
10 apricots, halved and stoned
2 tbsp sugar
2 tsp river honey
20g butter

Method
A galette in my world is a very simple tart: a base of flaky pastry, with raw fruit arranged on top, then baked. Most chefs and good cooks will have a culinary mentor, someone who has passed on their knowledge or inspired you to expand yours. I met Claude, a young French chef, in the 70s and he refuelled the interest I had in the connections of food to the outdoors and the garden. He was and still is a master at quickly gathering a few simple ingredients and cooking a treat. The galette is one that all of Claude's friends would have enjoyed in many guises many times.

Preheat the oven to 180C.

Place the sheet of pastry on a greased oven tray, trim off the corners and roll out like a pizza, then crimp the edges a little so that the outer rim of the pastry is slightly raised. Place the apricot halves in slightly overlapping layers, starting from the edges, until they are all used. Bake for 15 minutes. While the galette is cooking, combine the honey, sugar and butter in a saucepan and heat until all is dissolved. When the galette has been in the oven for 15 minutes, pull out the tray and brush over the honey glaze. Return to the oven and cook until the fruit takes on a nice glaze and the pastry is crisp, 30-40 minutes. Brush over any remaining honey glaze you may have left.

Serve generous warm slices with softly whipped cream.

It works well served cold as a picnic dish.
This recipe serves 5-6.