Jan Bilton: Cheese whizz throws in the trowel (+recipes)

Walnut and Craisin Brie

What's the difference between an archaeologist and a cheese judge? Nothing when they are the same person. And Thalassa (Lassa) Skinner is both. The cheese connoisseur and cheesemonger from California's Napa Valley, recently visited this country as a judge for the annual New Zealand Champions of Cheese Awards.

However, Lassa didn't plan a life in cheese.

Her parents were geologists and she studied archaeology at university eventually running a field camp in Kenya. But during her time as a student she took a part-time job working in the cheese department of a gourmet food store.

There, she was introduced to nuances and flavours she had never experienced. Her first experience of a goat's milk cheese awakened her taste buds and began a life-long love affair that eventually became her career of choice.

After completing a culinary degree in Boston, Lassa decided the Napa Valley offered a better climate and she now manages the Oxbow Cheese Merchants. She concentrates on educating cheesemongers and consumers and in 2007 launched cheese magazine Culture together with her sister, Stephanie, who still lives in Boston.

And what does she think of New Zealand cheeses?

"New Zealand cheese is gaining a world-wide rep for excellence and diversity. It all comes down to the availability of good milk."

This year, more than 450 specialty cheeses, yoghurts and butters were entered in the awards. Once again Dutch-style cheeses were supreme winners from Mahoe Farmhouse Cheeses, Mercer Cheese and Meyer Gouda Cheese. For more information on all the winning cheeses visit: www.nzsca.org.nz

Lassa's tips for cheese and wine matching:

-Start with the lightest and move through to the heaviest.

-Match intensities - don't let one overpower the other. For example, a rich cabernet will overshadow a fresh goat's cheese. A sav blanc would be better. Blue cheese and red wine fight " a late-harvest wine would be perfect. Serve pinot noir with a lightly aged gouda or cheddar.

RECIPES

WALNUT & CRAISIN BRIE

A great cheese to serve after dinner in place of dessert. I used the award-winning Grinning Gecko from Whangarei. New Zealand walnuts are the best.

4 tbsp each: firmly packed brown sugar, chopped walnuts
2 tbsp dried cranberries (craisins)
pinch ground cinnamon
2 tbsp brandy
1 medium round brie

To serve: Crackers, (try 180 Degrees Walnut Oat crackers), halved fresh figs, sliced apple.
Combine brown sugar, walnuts, craisins, cinnamon and brandy. Stir well to mix. Stand overnight for juice to develop.

Place cheese on heatproof plate. Bake for 5 minutes at 250C, or microwave on high for 1 minute, until soft and gooey inside. Spoon nut mixture on top and heat through for 2-3 minutes longer in the oven or 30 seconds in the microwave.

Cut into wedges to serve. - Serves 4-6

CHEESE & CIDER FONDUE

This is based on one of Lassa's favourite winter meals.

6 cups grated mature gouda
2 cups grated Mainland Epicure cheese
2 tbsp cornflour
pinch cayenne pepper
1 & 1/4 cups dry cider
Flaky sea salt to taste

Toss cheeses, cornflour and cayenne pepper in a large bowl.

Place cider in a large fondue pot or heavy saucepan. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat.

Gradually stir in 1 cup of cheese, until melted. Repeat with remaining cheese. The mixture may be transferred to a small slow cooker for serving.

Serve with raw cauliflorets, broccoli, sliced apples and pears plus cubes of crusty bread. - Serves about 6

TASTY CHEESE & COURGETTE BAKE

A light vegetarian meal.

500g courgettes
1 tsp salt
1 medium onion, diced
3 tbsp canola oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1/2 cup self-raising flour
1 cup shredded tasty cheddar cheese (eg Mainland Epicure)
4 eggs, lightly beaten
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup each: chopped parsley, mint

Top and tail courgettes, then coarsely shred. Sprinkle with salt. Place in a colander or sieve to drain for 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 180C.

Grease a 23cm square baking dish.

Meanwhile, saute onion in oil on medium heat, until softened. Add garlic.

Squeeze any liquid from courgettes and place in a bowl with flour and cheese. Mix well. Add onion and garlic in the oil. Stir in eggs, until combined. Season and add herbs.

Pour into baking dish and bake for about 40 minutes, until just set and golden.
Stand for 10 minutes before cutting into squares to serve. - Serves 4-6

CROQUE-MONSIEUR

This traditional French sandwich is becoming popular in cafes. The recipe - based on one from Lassa - uses the award-winning Zany Zeus creme fraiche rather than a bechamel sauce. Wangapeka Tui is a gruyere-style cheese.

4 tbsp creme fraiche
4 slices white bread
1 & 1/2 cups grated Wangapeka Tui
4 medium slices ham
chopped parsley to garnish

Preheat the oven to 180C.

Spread 1 tbsp of creme fraiche on each slice of bread. Top 2 slices with a 1/2 cup of the grated cheese, ham, another 1/2 cup of grated cheese and the remaining bread. Sprinkle with the remaining cheese.

Place the sandwiches on a baking tray. Bake for 7-10 minutes, until the bread begins to crisp and the cheese melts. Grill quickly to brown the cheese. Sprinkle with parsley and serve immediately.

- Serves 2