Green cosmetics' natural glow

Once regarded as a niche in the billion-dollar global beauty industry, 'green' cosmetics are making their way into the mainstream, writes Annemarie Quill.

Natural cosmetics no longer mean muddy neutrals. Bay women are turning down brown. We can't get enough of eco-glam cosmetics from local company Bella Vi and new kid on the block, Inika.
"Eleven years ago I threw away all my makeup and skincare products," Miranda Bond, co-founder of Australian natural cosmetics company Inika, told a Tauranga audience recently. "It was a last resort to beat years of pain and infertility by eliminating chemicals from my lifestyle. People thought I was crazy. A year later, I gave birth to my beautiful daughter Lola."
Frustrated by lack of choice and standards in "natural" makeup, Miranda set out to create her own brand, Inika (meaning small Earth), launched in Australia in 2006. Last month, Miranda launched the brand to the New Zealand public through Hardy's Health Stores. Says Miranda: "I was fed up with hunting for natural makeup and finding brown, brown and more brown."
The range she created includes bright seasonal colours for eyes and lips, as well as aromatic foundations and mineral powders.
Miranda's success is riding the wave of consumer demand for natural beauty products. There has been a shift in the international cosmetics market. As people move toward a greener lifestyle, natural and mineral makeup is enjoying a global boom. "Women are recognising that they no longer have to choose between using makeup that works and makeup that is free from harmful ingredients that affect their health and the environment," says Miranda.
Inika now sells in 16 countries, has picked up international awards and been on the cover of glossy magazines, putting natural makeup - previously a niche in the beauty industry - slap-bang into the mainstream.
Here in the Bay, another smaller local company, Bella Vi (meaning Beautiful You), has started to make waves in the industry with its natural mineral cosmetics. Like Inika's Miranda Bond, Bella Vi founder Melissa Furze spotted a gap in the market for safe beauty products that don't compromise on style. Launched in 2007, the Tauranga-based brand has gradually built up national success. It is used in more than 120 salons - 33 of them in the Bay. Bella Vi also has its eye on the Asian market.
Mirroring Miranda's epiphany about living a chemical-free lifestyle, Melissa was inspired by personal experience.
"In 15 years in beauty therapy I saw [many] clients suffering from skin sensitivities and allergies - myself included. I started to research common ingredients in skincare, including some of the bigger so-called natural brands."
Melissa urges women to carefully read labels and beware of advertising claims.
Inika's Miranda Bond agrees that although companies are jumping on the "green" bandwagon, there are many pretenders. "In an industry that is largely unregulated and rife with green-washing, it is hard for women to make informed choices."
Inika products are guaranteed to be completely free from a range of toxic ingredients normally used in makeup. Bella Vi products are 100 per cent mineral powders that don't contain fillers, parabens or preservatives.
Jo Hardy of Hardy's Health Stores says the company was keen to offer New Zealanders the option of choosing a natural alternative to "traditional" cosmetics.
"Kiwi women are becoming aware of harmful ingredients they should avoid in their skincare and makeup," she says. "We are confident that Inika is 100 per cent safe - the only cosmetics company in the world to be 100 per cent vegan, certified organic, 100 per cent cruelty-free."
But Bay women don't just want products that are suited to all skin types, including sensitive skin - they demand a range compatible with international makeup brands. Jaye Clark, owner of Synergy Vitality Spa in 11th Ave, says local women don't want to compromise on style.
"Woman want makeup that is safe but at the same time fashion-forward, and beauty therapists expect high performance in products. I find Inika easy to use because of its quality, colour choice and amazing coverage."
Caitlin Grace, beauty consultant at Hardy's Bethlehem, agrees: "Customers love the feel and coverage, but also the gorgeous colours. Even my husband noticed the new look."
Bella Vi also ticks both the glamour and virtuous boxes. Says Melissa Furze: "I am passionate about mineral powders. They are light and give a youthful appearance. You can create a natural makeup look right through to the glamorous fashion image."
Not just brown eyeshadow here - the range includes Hot Pink and Gold.
Hannah Welfare, owner of Pure Aroma Skin & Body in Mount Maunganui, uses Bella Vi. "It's a New Zealand business and Melissa and the Bella Vi team are nearby to support us. Our clients love the products - the colours and tones suit all skin types. It's makeup - but it's actually good for the skin."