Each year, at the end of the northern summer, millions of birds leave their Arctic breeding grounds to fly south to warmer regions. Several species, mainly waders (shorebirds), migrate along what is known as the East Asian-Australasian Flyway to Australia and New Zealand, where they spend the southern summer in the region's estuaries and shallow bays. In New Zealand, the most numerous of these species are the kuaka or bar-tailed godwit (currently around 78,000 individuals) and huahou or lesser knot (about 32,000 birds).
Nearly all bar-tailed godwits reaching New Zealand fly non-stop across the Pacific Ocean from their breeding grounds in Alaska, a journey of just under 12,000km. Smaller species, such as the knot, which breed primarily in eastern Siberia, migrate down through east Asia and Australia, stopping over only briefly to rest and feed in coastal wetlands along this 16,000km route.
The birds' return journeys are equally remarkable. All species migrate north along the flyway to gather in the vast estuaries and shallow bays of the Yellow Sea, between China and the Korean Peninsula. The godwits from New Zealand do this largely in one uninterrupted flight, covering over 10,000km in 7–8 days, during which time they lose around 40 per cent of their initial body mass. This 5–7 week stopover is vital, enabling them to replenish their energy reserves before continuing on to their Arctic breeding grounds, up to 6000km further north.
But things are changing. On the birds' breeding grounds, global warming is changing the timing of snow-melt, affecting the emergence and abundance of insects on which the birds depend. They also face challenges elsewhere, not least from massive land reclamation and industrial expansion at their critical stop-over sites around the Yellow Sea, developments that are causing disturbance, creating pollution and changing tidal flows. Birds displaced by these developments cannot easily re-establish themselves elsewhere, as it simply increases the pressure on local food sources because such areas already support other shorebirds.
For many years, international shorebird specialists, including from New Zealand, have been studying shorebird migration in both China and South Korea. But whereas much is now known about the birds' stopover sites in these countries, nothing was known until recently about the situation in North Korea, a difficult place to visit.