The Cape family, Peter, Barbara, Stephanie and Christopher, arrived in England on April 29, 1962 on board the MS Oranje.
My father Peter, a television producer with the fledgling NZBC, trained with the BBC in London for two months.
The Imperial Relations Trust had granted the trip funding, with a brief to study the history, lifestyles, arts and crafts of British society and report back. We found accommodation, a flat in Stoke Newington, and a car was purchased – a 1948 Ford Anglia in good condition.
On July 18 we began our 9000km journey through the British Isles, from Lands End to John O'Groats. There were four of us and nine pet mice. For the record the car was "MPJ", I was "Kit", my sister "Fani", my mother Barbara was "B" and our original two mice were "Moopid" and "Stoopid". I pick up my father's diary account after socialising and folk singing the previous evening with woodcarvers Angela Pruden and husband in High Wycombe.
From the beginning we were immersed in history and eccentricity. The Hellfire Caves were excavated in 1748 for Francis Dashwood, 11th Baron le Despencer, whose patrons indulged his wenching, imbibing, and pagan ceremonial pursuits.
The H & G Simonds Brewery was founded in 1785. It eventually became Courage Barclay and Simonds Brewery. A stalwart local institution, the original brewery building was demolished in 1983.
July 19, 1962 Thursday
Away by 9.30 after presenting the Prudens with Stephanie's outgrown gumboots. West Wycombe, old village owned by National Trust, saw opening of Hellfire Caves. Long promise of ghoulish screams not appreciated. Starts to rain and get lost at High Wycombe. Cause a traffic jam getting on Reading Rd. Lovely run through wooded hills. Rain. Reading. Explore. Then tour Courage Barclay and Simonds brewery (laid on by COI, Central Office of Information). Tea and beer (as much as we want) at and of it. Camped by lane-side on Basingstoke Rd.
Courage, Barclay and Simonds Brewery wagon and horses, Reading , Berkshire, England. July 19th, 1962. Photo / Peter Cape
July 20, 1962 Friday
Woken at 5 by policeman looking for 3 lost children: He thought he'd found 2 of them in car. Over to farm for water and on the road by 9.30. Lovely day (for a start).
Reading by 10. Spent 1 ½ hours discussing County Education with CE (County Education) officer of Berkshire Education Authority, then explored Abbey ruins (founded 1202) with Reading Gaol behind. Stopped for stools, another water carrier, thermos, play-pen for mice and so on. Beer in an old London coach inn, The George, then lunch by Forbury Gardens. Out to Tilehurst to see Park Lane pottery. Earthenware with painted and slip-trailed designs.
Bought a small piece then back through Reading and into Hampshire. Lovely wooded country to Basingstoke, where it started to rain. Bought a fly for the tent, and went on towards Winchester. Looking for a campsite, turned off road and found village of thatched cottages, part of a fancy estate owned by a Lord someone. Found a copse off the road and camped under the trees.
July 21, 1962 Saturday
Windy night among the elms. Away by 9.30. Photographed East Stratton with its thatched cottages, the back to the lovely wooded Hampshire main roads. Winchester small but beautiful. Stopped and explored God begot House, the bar of the George (a cellar, dating back to Norman times), the old mill, the Cathedral (bones of King Canute) the city walls , and so on – also a round table with Arthur's name on it.
On to the sign of The Bleeding Horse at Ramsbury, a magnificent gallery of paintings, pots and woodcarving, set in the best kept village in Wiltshire. On to Amesbury, where we had a meal, and then to Stonehenge only to find it closed. Camped about a mile further on, in a copse on Salisbury Plain – with flies.
Children lost Moopid at last night's camp and didn't tell us until after Winchester. They were infuriating all day!
July 22, 1962 Sunday
When we got up so did the flies. At Stonehenge by 9.30 but not before coachloads of tourists arrived. Drove to Old Sarum and explored the castle, then on to Salisbury. Not as pleasant a town as Winchester – no doubt because it is on the flat. Cathedral less interesting, though all of a piece – 32 years to build: tower added 150 years later.
Looked at Poultry Cross, bought milk, got wet in rain, and left. Out to Wilton (whence the carpets came from) to see Harold Copping, a craftsman who makes Manchester side model period furniture. Does beautiful work. Ageing craftsman, but immensely skilful and proud of his work.
On to Old Wardour Castle, through magnificent rolling country. A ruin with an interesting grotto: Udien style. Back (off route) to the A30, then to Sherbourne which we nearly missed. A lovely little town of 7000 round an Abbey church. Almshauses and a lavatorium where the monks washed. Towards Cerne Abbas, find a disused lane, and camped. (saw tramp tramping on A30).
July 23, 1962 Monday
Cold night but slept until eight. Water from a man with thick Dorset accent. Off by 10. Friar hitchhiking on road. Forge at Cerne Abbas - wrought iron done by demolition engineer. Back to Mother House of Franciscans, then back through Cerne Abbas and on to Dorchester (Interesting earthworks on hillside). Stopped at Dorchester, then on to Roman Amphitheatre, and Maiden Castle : fascinating earthworks dating from Neolithic times. Arranged by Dorset Museum – 2/- for 10 minutes. Out through lovely little villages to Crewkerne, Honiton and Chard. Photographed old toll house. Camped out of Exeter by roadside. Lovely Constable evening. Barbara paints while we listen to Haydn. Creation on radio. Then Traherue on the 3rd over a field of corn.
[So another day ended in what must have been a long peaceful golden twilight. My mother was an art teacher and held a degree in fine arts and art history. For a change, it wasn't raining. We had covered some 730 kilometres since leaving London and the road ahead was an open gambit.]
