Adventurous first day of annual Whanganui River waka journey

Paddlers stand around a fire during the 2018 Tira Hoe Waka canoe journey. Photo/ supplied

A journey from Taumarunui to Whanganui on the Whanganui River has set participants up for the new year, Mere Whanarere and Wheturangi Walsh-Tapiata say.

For Miss Whanarere it was her fourth or fifth time on the annual Whanganui Iwi Tira Hoe Waka. For Ms Walsh-Tapiata it was her ninth or 10th.

It was a historic trip, the 30th since the annual journey began. All the marae that have supported it were visited, and a tree and plaque were left at each.

There were 80 to 100 people on the water this year, and 20 to 40 "roadies" hosting them at marae with vehicle access. The journey began at the Otoko and Maungarongo marae, then a visit to a place where water from the Whanganui is diverted and used to generate electricity.

The travellers spent the first night at Ngapuwaiwaha Marae in Taumarunui. A storm was expected, safety briefings were given and six new waka were blessed before the journey.

On the first day on the water the river was way up, and rushing.

"It was pretty adventurous. There were some really hair raising moments in the rapids. Most of us came out, and for some it was more than once," Miss Whanarere said.

Safety jetboats were on hand, to pick paddlers out of the water.

"Some had several 'conversations' with their awa tupua," Ms Walsh-Tapiata said.

Everyone was safe, but it made for an exciting start.

At Tawata the paddlers had a visit from the Māori Queen's granddaughter, who was named after a meeting at night near Parikino, the moment when the queen heard of her birth. The young woman brought speakers from Tainui and is expected to undertake the Tira next year.

The next morning Father David Gledhill conducted an outdoor Mass for the paddlers.

Continuing downriver the sun shone, the water warmed and its flow lessened. Some of the paddlers saw dead fish.

Every night there were wānanga (learning sessions), usually taken by Che Wilson or Gerrard Albert. It was a time to learn waiata (songs) and moteatea (chants) and, for the men, haka. It was also a time to hear stories about the past, and get updates on river initiatives.

The two nights at Patiarero (Jerusalem) were special because it was a traditional place of learning for river people and because Turama Hawira, one of the people appointed to speak for the river after its Treaty settlement, was there.

"It was a beautiful opportunity to share our aspirations with him. A lot of rangatahi (youth) contributed to the kōrero," Miss Whanarere said.

One person suggested allowing non-Māori to go on the journey, and she's pretty sure some would love to.

"It will help people understand our relationship with the river."

When the paddlers finally arrive at Putiki there's a special ceremony to acknowledge young people who have completed their first trip. Men perform a haka for them, and their names and the marae or hapū that connect them to the river are read out.

"The families are really proud," Ms Walsh-Tapiata said.

Each is given a piece of rope, which can join them together.

Then, because it was the 30th year, there was a celebratory ball on January 18 at Whanganui's racecourse. There was a three-course meal, speeches and presentations, and dancing to the band Harmony Showdown.

The Tira is not over then - because it lingers in the memory and sets participants up for the new year, Ms Walsh-Tapiata said.

"It's a place where I can let go of everything that's happened in the previous year and prepare for the next year, both individually, as a whānau and as an iwi. We are very lucky to have it."