There are plenty of options to choose from and plenty of ways you can grow tomato plants at home. Every person who has grown tomatoes a few times seems to develop their own style and method of growing that suits them and their property.
Whether you are new to growing tomatoes or a seasoned home tomato grower, now is the time to get your 2024-25 crop growing.
Mid-October and Labour Weekend is the traditional time for planting tomatoes - as well as most other summer flowers and vegetables.
Tomatoes grow best in a full sun position but sheltered from the wind. They grow best at 21-24C. They do not thrive at temperatures below 10C or above 27C and do not tolerate frost.
Tomatoes tolerate a wide range of fertile and well-drained soils tending acid within a pH range of 5.5 to 7. Some lime may need to be applied to very acidic soils. The plants perform best if they are rotated with other vegetable crops to prevent a build-up of soil-borne pests and diseases. They should not be grown in the same patch of ground year after year. This can be a problem in small gardens and greenhouses. If pests and diseases are not a major problem and the soil is boosted with regular applications of compost and fertiliser, rotation may not be necessary. Tomatoes also grow successfully in containers and this is another popular option.
Prepare the soil by working in Tui Tomato Mix or Ican Premium Compost. Mix in the soil at least 30cm deep as tomatoes develop a deep root system in this range and are gross feeders. Work in tomato fertiliser before planting; tomatoes need high levels of phosphate but low levels of nitrogen. Dressings of feeds such as Ican Tomato Food during the growing season are most beneficial. I have found slow-releasing Manutec Tomato Tablets or Jobes Tomato Spikes the most effective for ongoing feeding of tomatoes, capsicums and cucumbers in pots and containers.
Sowing and planting
Tomato seeds planted now will produce a crop in February–March whereas tomato plants planted out now can produce ripe fruit from late December, depending on weather conditions. For a successional crop, you may like to sow some seeds now. Seed is best sown in a seedraising mix in clean seed trays. Fill trays to about 20mm below the top then firm and level carefully. Soak the tray and mix until it is thoroughly wet before the seed is sown and stand for a while to allow excess water to drain off.
Sow seeds evenly across the tray and cover with a 3-5mm layer of seedraising mix.
The best temperature for germinating tomato seeds is 21-24C. Germination will occur at much lower temperatures but it is slower. It is beneficial to cover seed trays with a piece of glass and paper during germination and to turn the glass over daily to remove any condensation. A well-prepared tray should require no more watering until after seedlings have emerged. High humidity at the time of their emergence helps the seedlings to shed their seed coats. Seedlings should be pricked out when the seed leaves (cotyledons) are fully expanded. In temperatures of 21-24C, this can be six to 12 days after sowing. Before pricking them out, loosen them by sliding a small label, iceblock stick, narrow teaspoon or similar under the roots, and lift the plants by one of their seed leaves, not the stem to avoid damage.
Only vigorous healthy seedlings should be pricked out. Put them into a good quality potting mix such as Ican Premium Potting Mix or Tui Tomato Mix. Discard remaining seedlings. Transplant into 5-6cm pots at the two or three leaf stage and give the seedlings ample ventilation, space and light. They can stand short periods of low temperature as long as day temperatures do not fall below 7C, soil temperature is about 10C and the risk of frost is over. If necessary, cover with cloches or plastic over a frame or stake supports in the early stages to provide shelter.
Routine care
All tomato types should be watered and mulched thoroughly once the soil is warm. Plants in containers need more frequent watering and supplementary tomato fertiliser to complement the loss of leached-out nutrients. Be careful not to overwater or overfeed as this may reduce flavour. Avoid watering the foliage as this may lead to fungus infection; apply water directly to the soil over the root area or use a watering can, soaker hose, micro irrigation drippers or similar.
In mid to late summer, some gardeners like to remove the growing tip (terminal shoot) to three leaves above a fruit truss to discourage further height and encourage the remaining fruit to ripen. Laterals should be removed about once a week, beginning about three weeks after planting. They readily bend and break off from a healthy plant. Carry out this task when the plants are dry as there is less risk of disease infection. The same applies to unwanted foliage. As leaves grow older, they shade one another and the fruit. Removing some improves air circulation, reduces the risk of disease and allows more sunlight to ripen the fruit. Grafted tomatoes can be grown without having to remove any laterals as the more vigorous root system will support the larger plant.
Pests and diseases
Some pests and diseases of tomatoes are damping-off of seedlings, mites, whiteflies, tomato caterpillars, bronze wilt, nematodes, fruit flies, tomato psyllid and tomato blight. Tomatoes under cover are susceptible to whiteflies, mosaic virus, grey mould (botrytis), tomato leaf mould, magnesium deficiency, boron deficiency, stem rots, foot and root rots, and blossom end rot. Many of these problems are rare and can be controlled readily if observed.
The two most common problems are blight and tomato (also potato) psyllid. Blight is a fungal problem and can be prevented and controlled with the use of Gro Safe Free Flo Copper or Yates Tomato Dust. The tomato/potato psyllid is readily controlled by the use of Yates Mavrik or Yates Success. Both these sprays are bee-friendly once dry.
Come to see us at the garden centre with a photo or sample of your plants if you encounter any of these problems and we can advise on the best means of control.
