Raglan local India Hendrikse on where to stop for dinner and drinks, where to stay the night and ideas for spending an ideal weekend.
In the summer, Whāingaroa is heaving, much like the ocean swell that batters its beaches.
But come outside of the Christmas period and the thrum softens
Raglan first entered the minds of international surfers in the 60s, with now-cult films like The Endless Summer (1966) and Children of the Sun (1968) putting the small beach town on the map.
And while it still has a distinct surfer feel, if jostling the waves isn’t your jam, there’s plenty to do, eat and see in and around the town. From eating Japanese to the backdrop of a record-spinning DJ, to volcano-climbing, shopping relaxed fits and sauna-ing with a view, here’s how to spend a few days in this coastal Waikato town.
For coffee and brunch
For a fix of locally roasted coffee, head to INDI for a cup of Morning Glory. There are no takeaway cups here, so either sit in the sunshine or borrow one of their ceramic mugs and drop it back later.
At The Shack, try locally baked Raglan Bagels for breakfast, or their staple “Chillicrunch Rice“ for lunch, which sees miso-fried brown rice paired with crunchy vege and a zingy peanut chilli crunch. Another lunch establishment is Sidekick, which is set back from the road in the Indi courtyard. Their sandwiches (using Kirikiriroa’s Volare bread) are ever-changing, but a classic is the “Joni California” — soft-whipped cheese, salad, pickled veges, salt and vinegar chips and mayo are crammed between Turkish bread.
Also try: For more hole-in-the-wall takeaway coffee options, Raglan Surf Co — also the best place to rent a board — serves Allpress, and Raglan Roast does a very strong, much-loved brew.
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Advertise with NZME.For new fits
Everyone’s Store merch has become somewhat of a staple for Raglan locals. Their logo-branded hoodies — a simple outline of the maunga, Karioi, that is the town’s backdrop — are somewhat of a local uniform. Indya Gibbs opened the store three years ago, and stocks casual streetwear brands such as Afends and Charlie Holiday. She’s an avid playlist creator and the soundtrack to the store is always on point.
“Everyone’s is about having a colourful, creative, fun and safe space in town that everyone can visit,” says Indya. “My 89-year-old grandma wears clothes from the store, but so do 12-year-olds. I don’t want anyone to feel afraid to wear things. We’re for anyone who wants to have a bit of fun and feel good.”
For a vintage fix, Ulo curates a fabulous array of preloved clothing with a decisive 70s feel. Think flared pants, fringed jackets, chaotic patterns and boxy cotton tees. There’s a great selection of second-hand records and artwork by store owner and local artist Kyoko Shirai, which pulls the cacophony of colour together.
If you’re ready to splurge, Atamira is a delight. Luxurious Marle knits and Penny Sage slips cosy up against laid-back Blundstones and essential-yet-chic beachwear. Their attached menswear store, The Corner Store, is great, too.
Also try: While Tony Sly Pottery has an Auckland store, it’s the Raglan outfit, located at the wharf, where you’ll be able to peek out the back to see Tony throwing clay. While you’re there, order chips from Raglan Fish and enjoy the view. If you’re lucky enough, you may even spot orca as they swim past.
For a stroll and a sauna
If you climb to the jagged summit of Karioi on a blue day, you’ll see Mount Taranaki’s pointy cone, with the maunga rising above the skyline some 160 kilometres away. There are two summit tracks to choose from (one’s slightly steeper and longer), but both will take you through stunning bush abundant with birdlife, and reward you with sweeping countryside and ocean views.
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Advertise with NZME.If you’re feeling less intrepid, the Wairēinga Falls walk is an easy meander and a perfect activity on either your way into or out of Raglan. Stroll five minutes to the lookout point along a mostly flat track, or descend the steps to the bottom to gaze up at the 55-metre swoosh.
To unwind after your adventures, head to Redwood Sauna, located on the Solscape grounds. A wood stove heats the 15-person space, and a large window looks out to farmland (in the spring you may even spot lambs jumping about), with a peek of the ocean beyond. Pick the guided sauna, and you’ll be embraced by serene music and essential oils.
For dinner and a drink
For dinner, either pop back to the INDI courtyard for a woodfired sourdough pizza from Piacè Pizzeria, or head to ULO’s Kitchen (the restaurant version of the store of the same name) for Japanese-inspired fusion. After manoeuvring your hips onto a dinky antique stool, order a pint of locally brewed Workshop Brewing beer — their IPA, Wakey Jakey, is excellent — and let DJ Cian O’Donell settle you in with his genre-diverse repertoire of vinyl.
The Shirai family, who own the joint, moved to New Zealand after fleeing from the earthquake and tsunami that wreaked havoc on Fukoshima in 2011. Yoshiaki and Yuko Shirai run the establishment with their children Kyoko (who owns the vintage store and is married to Cian), Takahiro and Eriko.
Classic Japanese dishes such as tan-tan ramen and sashimi sit beside spicy Sichuan dan-dan noodles and warming bowls of Vietnamese pho. Delicate edible flowers pull it all together. It’s consistently packed-out, and Kyoko says the family have been embraced by the community.
“My family really fits into Raglan,” she says. “The people in Raglan are quite different and special to other places in New Zealand. There’s a special kind of community here who really help each other. We’re so grateful.”
After dinner, head to ISO Bistro for a nightcap, or Raglan Harbour View Hotel (aka, “the pub”) for pool and a bit more of a racket.
Also try: If you’re in the mood for a boogie, check the lineup at The Yard. Well-known musicians often breeze through town, so it’s worth keeping an eye out.
To snooze
Ruapuke, a beach 25 minutes down the coast, is wild and rugged. But it’s also stunning and quiet, with just a smattering of houses and no shops. The views out here are incredible, and if you’re happy to drive that bit further from the main hubbub, then Rua Nuka is a charming choice. Nestled into mānuka, the cabin has a treehouse feel – perfect for solo R&R or a romantic getaway – and looks through the trees to the expanse of ocean, just a five-minute drive away.
Closer to town is Poppy’s Place. It’s a sweet little cabin just a 10-minute walk from the main beach, Ngarunui. Lounge in the hammock while gazing over the micro flower farm that’s visible from your private deck (hello row after row of dahlias), and befriend the two Silkies chickens, Kath and Kim, and runner ducks Daffodil, Daisy, and Doris. You can even help yourself to eggs.
If you want something a little more secluded, without having to pitch a tent, Unyoked is a good bet. It began in Australia and now has cabins in both the United Kingdom and New Zealand. The Raglan tiny homes are just beyond Whale Bay, and require a small hike to get to from your vehicle. It’s the place to come if you love the idea of camping, but also like the finer things in life; you’ll be secluded in nature and can light an outdoor fire and toast marshmallows, but also nod off wrapped up in linen sheets.
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