Where To Eat & Drink In Singapore: High-End Restaurants, Michelin-Starred Street Food & Historic Cocktails

Drawing on its rich cultural history and the zeal of a new generation, Singapore serves up everything. Pack your appetite.

Historically a trading hub, positioned in the centre of Southeast Asia, Singapore is still a busy port city with ships filling the harbour on any given day, Indonesia visible in the distance. As an international centre for industries like finance, property, technology and manufacturing, its enduring mix of migrants and citizens from diasporic backgrounds remains an influential part of local life — all combining to create a diverse mix of cuisines.

Food culture is the beating heart of the city, pulsing through every street and building. Everywhere you turn there’s somewhere to eat, and people inside doing just that. Food, and access to it, are a core of the city’s value system. Civic signs in the park promote the importance of family meals. Individual diners are well catered to too. There are heritage neighbourhoods and longstanding eateries, world-class fine dining and list-topping bars, luxury fashion and local boutiques; all enjoyed by locals and visitors with equal zeal.

Strike up a conversation with any Singaporean and it likely, swiftly, turns to what to eat; impassioned recommendations for favourite spots — a quick stop at the nearest hawker centre for lunch or dinner, or a visit to one of the city’s many, many, many restaurants and cafes — debates about what truly is the national dish of this melting-pot of a city, and above all an appetite for sharing dishes with family and friends.

As a city of five and a half million people, the range is overwhelming, and to experience a more local kind of visit (beyond the city-state’s popular resorts and more touristic sights) it takes some insider insight to know where to start, and even then we’re only breaking the surface of a deep, rich food culture that warrants more than just one trip; think of this as a tasting menu.

The sheer number of eateries, and diners filling all the seats, didn’t cease to surprise us during the four days we were there. With temperatures hovering at 32 degrees, starting your day well puts you in good stead to get a lot done, not to mention one of the pleasures of a trip abroad is enjoying a leisurely morning; wake up early and make the most of the relative quiet and cool before Singapore gets going.

Start your day with a strong coffee (and a bite to eat)

An easy walk from the city’s riverside hotels of Robertson Quay, is Tiong Bahru, a peaceful art deco neighbourhood with less bustle but plenty of charm; primarily residential — it was a pioneering area for Singapore’s public housing model — it’s decidedly chill, and home to some coffee spots. There’s cool Privé Cafe, bohemian Merci Marcel, and the flagship location of Tiong Bahru Bakery, which turns out exceptionally good croissants (especially considering the humidity) at its outlets around the city and uses French flour and butter for its baking. Singapore is currently seeing a surge in popularity for sourdough bread and other European fare, with locals queuing avidly to get their hands on these baked goods. Visit Micro Bakery, located in the iconic Red House building, or Joo Chiat’s Petit Pain.

One very hip destination worth a visit is Chye Seng Huat Hardware in Jalan Besar. It’s the cafe operation of PPP Coffee, a roastery that started in the backyard of a shophouse, before seizing the opportunity presented by a “for lease” sign outside this protected heritage building on Tyrwhitt Rd, which now also serves as its headquarters, where it hosts workshops and tastings upstairs.

Much of the exterior remains unchanged, even the hardware store signage, and the forecourt provides a relaxing courtyard space for eating and drinking al fresco, perfect for Singapore’s balmy climate. The roastery backs on to the courtyard. You’ll want to order coffee, of course; the filter and iced brews are great, while the latte will prove worthy of any New Zealander abroad. The food makes this a destination too, with an a la carte menu serving breakfast until an impressive 4pm, plus all-day fare, while the pastry cabinet is great too. The pandan kaya cake, a local specialty that gets its vibrant green flavour from the leaf of the same name, is a creamy and moist delight, and goes well with a strong black coffee.

Get a taste of Singapore tradition at some of these classic spots

For a more old-school flavour, head to the characterful Chin Mee Chin in Katong for a traditional Singaporean breakfast, dished up on classic, sturdy enamelware. Eggs are just-boiled and silky soft, mix them together with soy and black pepper or slurp them down whole, local style. For sweeter fare, there is bread spread with Chin Mee Chin’s signature kaya jam — a condiment made from egg yolk, coconut milk, sugar and pandan leaf (cafes make their own) in the Peranakan style rather than Hainanese — and a square of butter; the sugee cake, made with semolina, is a must, as are the rather indulgent cream-filled twists; while the 50-year-old chocolate cupcake recipe is a nostalgic favourite of the cafe’s older clientele. Also beloved is the traditional coffee, served with coconut cream.

Now painted a crisp sky blue, the building went up in 1925 and originally housed a bread delivery business — via bicycle — before evolving into a dine-in operation and bakery. Founded by Tan Hui Dong, he was joined by his son Tan Joo Long and daughter-in-law Leong Kwang Ling; granddaughter Sharon Tan joined them, and though deciding to close the cafe in 2019, it reopened in 2021 with the support of long-time customer, neighbour and family friend Lim Kian Chun, whose food-and-beverage company Ebb & Flow Group are now partners, reviving and introducing it to a new generation. Sharon’s husband Peter explains Chin Mee Chin’s history, as we sit in the shade drinking more coffee, talking about football (Johann Cruyff) and food and family. Chin Mee Chin is Mandarin for “genuine beautiful treasure” he says, and fittingly much of the character and history has been preserved; the space has an out-of-time quality, with dark wood fixtures and an oscillating ceiling fan inside, and the food does too, making it a special, only-in-Singapore experience.

The city’s historic eateries also encompass long-standing businesses that have become neighbourhood institutions. Kampong Glam Cafe occupies a prominent corner location in the district of the same name, and the family business does a busy trade of its affordable, flavoursome Malay cuisine. The burgundy awning offers shade for fresh-air eating, and chairs are cheerful, fuss-free red plastic.

Newer openings draw from Singapore’s storied food history; Sinpopo trades on a gourmet-nostalgia vibe, offering a sophisticated spin on traditional Peranakan dishes. In the 10 years since it opened, has become famous for its pretty, tasty nasi lemak: rice is coloured with blue pea flower, nuts are candied and cucumber is picked, and it’s served with Angus beef cheek rendang — its version of this Peranakan icon features house-made rempah (spice paste) — Assam sambal prawns, another house specialty, and crispy chicken wings marinated in prawn paste. The soft-boiled egg, smothered in sambals and caramelised onion, is worth getting as an extra side.

There’s a commemorative table in the window of Wee Nam Kee — a spot famous for its iteration of Hainanese chicken rice, one of Singapore’s national dishes — gifted by friends of the family-run business, explains Wee Liang Lian over a meal before the evening shift starts.

His father was in advertising, then opened a printing press, before eventually deciding to launch the restaurant. He’d always wanted to do an eatery, Hainanese like the family (they have their own formulation for their signature dish), and he was joined by his son, the Mr Wee we’re meeting, when Liang Lian was in his 30s.

Family-style eating and the sharing of food is the heart of the business. “I think the joy comes from eating with people,” he says. “You let your guard down.” So beloved is the restaurant to its patrons that one couple, who met at Wee Nam Kee, decided to have their wedding there too.

Hainanese chicken rice is a delicate and comforting dish, and it’s his favourite meal. “I have it every day,” he says. “I love food. I love simple, basic food.” And though the dish has made the restaurant a destination, they serve an array of dishes — including another national dish, chilli crab, and other Nanyang (a meld of southern China and Southeast Asia) cuisine hits. “You can’t just do one [thing].”

Head to a hawker centre for a truly unique experience

Another local tradition, hawker centres are unique to Singapore and definitive of its dining culture. Established by the government in the 1970s, the concept aimed to centralise street vendors, and provide widespread access to affordable food as part of its social housing strategy and urban vision. Today, there are more than 100 of these open-plan, sheltered spaces across the city, servicing everything from family meals to workday lunches, and offering a wide range of cuisines from Singapore’s many diaspora cultures.

At Amoy Street Hawker Centre, popular with workers and packed with 76 food options, you’ll find Hoo Kee Rice Dumpling. It’s been there since 1983, when the precinct opened, and the family business is now in third-generation hands: Ryk Chew, who runs it alongside his wife Sherlyn. They make and sell 300-400 sticky rice dumplings every day, and the whole process begins the night before with the soaking of the leaves and rice. There are four to choose from — chestnut and pork (the original and, I think, the best), iterations that include a salted egg or mushroom, and a deluxe “all-in” with everything. Each is perfectly caramelised, sticky and rich, and goes very well with chilli sauce. Queues start forming at 11.30am when office breaks begin, so go early.

So dedicated are hawker centre proprietors to food, that some have even earned Michelin stars. Hill Street Tai Hwa Pork Noodle, located at Tai Hwa Eating House, is one of these. A trip to Singapore isn’t complete without a visit.

You want to order the gan mian (dry noodles), a spicy dish with several incarnations of pork — including crackling, which soaks up the sauce rather nicely — or if you want something slightly more mellow, guo tiao tang (rice noodle soup) with a side of zha bian yu (salted fried fish) doesn’t go amiss. Nor does a cup of kopi, traditional Singapore-style coffee that’s a must regardless of the hour. These are served strong, made with condensed milk, in a handsome glass mug.

Dive into the wonderful world of fusion

Singapore’s multicultural heritage is the foundation of its historic eateries. It is also shaping the dining zeitgeist and influx of talent, as new generations translate traditions for an audience hungry for new flavours.

Chef Rishi Naleendra has two-Michelin-starred restaurant Cloudstreet to his name, and his latest Singapore opening, Kotuwa, is an homage to his Sri Lankan upbringing. The vibe is relaxed and the music old school, but the food is serious — notably, an unforgettably fragrant fish curry, made from jade perch, with turmeric leaf and pomelo. The kitchen’s use of tamarind is something special, balancing a rich and crispy duck leg, absorbed by a fried eggplant pickle, and used for a house-made sauce served with a crab cutlet. If tang is your thing, order the amba maluwa (green mango) curry too. There’s also an inventive array of cocktails with Sri Lankan flavours, and specialty spirits like aromatic arrack.

Fusion is big in Singapore, and for a city with so many different cultures, and many residents with mixed heritage, this style of food makes more sense here than it does in iterations elsewhere. A beef Wellington filled with rendang? You’ll find it in Singapore, at new opening Pandangton to be precise, whose portmanteau name sums up its business proposition very succinctly. Owner and chef Burhan Khalid opened for business in July, with a concise menu focused on this intriguing proposition. As well as the beef — which is delicious — there’s a lamb shank rendang on offer, made with New Zealand lamb, and with eight hours of cooking the meat is so tender that the bone can be pulled from its pastry casing, as Burhan performed with a flourish. Given New Zealanders’ affinity with pies, this unique dish is worth making time for. Also worth ordering is the pulut “sushi” rendang; beef encased in turmeric-infused glutinous rice, served with green sambal hijau and topped with serundeng, sauteed coconut and spices.

On the fancier end of the fusion spectrum is Synthesis. Hidden away, the retro, neon-lit entryway is a savvy visual entree to what’s inside this lounge bar and eatery. The interior is shiny and sexy with metallic surfaces, and a youthful energy permeates the whole place, embodied by founder Sebastian Ang, 34, whose vision and menu draw from traditional Chinese medicine, a practice he says is becoming lost with younger generations, and hopes to reclaim and revitalise with Synthesis.

In practice, that conceptual approach translates to dishes that incorporate nutritious and fortifying ingredients and straddle different cuisines. An Assam-curry pani puri with cured salmon has surprising bite; the truffle carbonara is made with yams more tender than the softest gnocchi, topped with burdock root; a fragrant herbal broth poured over chicken tastes like the most nourishing meal you’ll ever eat overlooking a bar; while an oolong tea-infused tiramisu offers a twist on a classic. Best of all perhaps, is thes prawn paste-marinated fried chicken.

Equally important is its drinks range, also inspired by traditional Chinese medicine, and Synthesis is a popular venue for parties. On quieter nights (by Singapore standards) hip young locals, luxury handbags in tow, stop by to catch up over a drink or celebrate a special occasion; there were two birthdays taking place when we visited.

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See how Singapore does farm-to-table

The new generation of restaurateurs also aims to spotlight food provenance. Scaled by Ah Hua Kelong — which also dabbles in fusion — is most notable for its farm-to-table approach to seafood, and it’s Singapore’s first fish-farmer-owned restaurant. (Kelong refers to the region’s traditional offshore floating fish farms). Its dedication to ocean fare and a new way of doing things make the menu a welcome task to choose from.

The intriguingly titled “KFC” (kelong-fried collar) is a crunchy delight and a theatrical addition to the table, and for a fish-and-chip experience with Singaporean flair, order a side of potatoes, which are served with house-made XOXO sauce. Prawns are a must too, and we had them two ways — aglio e olio style, complete with heads, as well as roasted with seaweed butter and kelp. Perhaps best of all, the curry mussels, locally caught and immersed in a blend of Indian and Chinese flavours, are sensational; ask for spicy, and mop up with fluffy, fried mantou (Chinese steamed bun).

With dishes like this and a youthful, approachable vibe, the eatery has made quite a splash with diners, who flock to the art deco building for its two dinner sittings. Located in the relative quiet of Jalan Besar, it’s a good spot if you want a cool meal away from crowded streets. Not that the restaurant is quiet, far from it. They open at 5pm, and when we arrive at ten past, the long thin space is nearly all full, so booking is essential.

Open Farm Community, meanwhile, has an agricultural focus; it operates as a sustainable urban farm, Singapore’s first apparently, serving up produce grown on-site to its stylish clientele. A leafy destination, it’s popular with families on the weekend, looking to get a dash of farm life in a metropolis that, while strikingly verdant, imports 90 per cent of its food due to land constraints.

In nearby Dempsey Hill, a sophisticated terracotta-roofed neighbourhood of repurposed barracks on (now popular dining and shopping precinct, even the former chapel is now a bar) chocolaterie Mr Bucket aims to promote Southeast Asian chocolate as a worthy competitor to other global iterations, taking a farm-to-table approach to its cacao beans which it sources directly from farmers and roasts in house. There are single-origin bars, hand-painted bonbons and an indulgent menu. It is named for Roald Dahl’s famous character Charlie Bucket, and founder Jerome Penafort has created a suitably interactive open-plan space, with a youthful and enthusiastic team hosting everything from workshops and birthdays to make-your-own chocolate experiences. There’s even cacao wine for the grown-ups.

And taste a tipple at one of the city’s many hot bars

Speaking of vinos, natural wine — still so popular in New Zealand — has caught on in Singapore too, with dedicated bars like Le Bon Funk and Juice serving up skin contact specialties, and the city’s first natural wine store, Wine Mouth, can be found in the fittingly trendy (and gentrifying) area Joo Chiat.

Mixologists are finding inspiration in this funky drop too, with Jigger And Pony serving a handful of “natural cocktails” inspired by the global wine fad, including the Cloudy Kangaroo, which incorporates strained soy milk curd, sake lees (a byproduct of the sake process) and sherry. The vibe of the bar is funk-filled too, with a loungey feel and curvaceous fit-out — blue suede booths — and lighting that makes you feel like you’re at the bottom of a whiskey glass. In an old-school ode to print media, drinks are listed in a “menu-zine” and each cocktail has its own entry and picture, a helpful resource indeed.

A new generation of beer is also enjoying buoyed popularity, and New Zealanders with a taste for a crafty brew would do well to seek out local favourites like The 1925 Brewing Co’s Liang Teh Lager, a gentle and fragrant chrysanthemum beer. And with nothing quite like a cold one on a hot, humid day, head to some dedicated operations like The Kongsee, Druggists and SG Taps.

For a very hip experience, recommended by all the switched-on locals we canvassed ahead of our trip, head to 28 HongKong Street. With an unobtrusive entrance, it’s easy to miss — though you’ll want to ensure you don’t. Inside is a sexy, grungy space with a patina of cool that’s earned not bought; the building’s been refurbished just enough, while retaining its character and ambience. The bar is low, the booths are plush and the lighting’s dim. And the cocktails? Sublime.

Other cool spots advised by one switched-on industry insider: Cat Bite Club, Stay Good Flamingo, Foxtail, No Sleep Club and Sago House. And, of course, with a soaring skyline, Singapore isn’t short on rooftop bars from which to enjoy the view and a drink, including Mr. Stork and Las Palmas.

The bar scene is so hot here — like the climate — that Singapore can lay claim to some of Asia’s finest. The monolithic Atlas Bar, anointed one of the best 50 bars in the world and in Asia’s top five, intoxicates with its interior alone: a cavernous, 1920s-inspired space. The drinks are top-notch too, and this old-world feel extends to the menu, with iterations of classic cocktails, world-famous champagnes, as well as some quite literally historic options: sample a “vintage martini” with your choice of gin from the 1910s onwards. Their standards are high, and the dress code is enforced.

For another taste of history, the iconic Raffles is home to the elegant, literary Writers Bar where you can order the Million Dollar Cocktail, invented by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, who concocted the original Singapore Sling. This joint is named for the many authors who’ve frequented the hotel since brothers Martin, Tigran, Aviet, and Arshak Sarkies opened it in 1887, and their names extend to the menu, and a writer-in-residence programme. Madeleine Lee is its latest alumni, and there are several cocktails on offer, inspired by her book of poems, which is available to purchase — a lasting memento of a satiating trip to Singapore.

Viva travelled to Singapore courtesy of the Singapore Tourism Board.