Travel Diary: India Hendrikse Makes The Most Of A Holiday In Hanoi, Vietnam

It’s a sensory overload and yet, if you linger a little longer, Vietnam’s capital will pull you into its rhythm, writes India Hendrikse.

The first day of my solo trip to Hà Nội (Hanoi) was my birthday, and my Airbnb host and her family had kindly offered to take me to lunch. The kicker was that we were late for our booking and my host was held up. “Just get on a Grab bike to save the table for us, and we’ll meet you there,” she said.

A perfectly reasonable request – however, I’d already seen a snippet of the, erm, free-spirited traffic in Hanoi, and firmly decided not to get on the back of a stranger’s motorbike (Grab is Southeast Asia’s answer to Uber). But I succumbed to politeness and, with wide eyes, tensed thighs and an ill-fitting helmet, off I went through the narrow and smoky streets, trying awkwardly not to cling to my driver’s waist.

Once I’d joined the home of 6.5 million scooters, I roamed Vietnam’s capital like this for the next week. It’s a city of many chapters; more than 1000 years of Chinese rule is evident in the tiered pagodas and Confucian relics; Nguyen Dynasty tubular homes still stand shoulder-to-shoulder; and French colonialism underpins the baguettes piled high on street carts and the grandiose buildings of the French Quarter.

Most guides will suggest you stay for a couple of nights. But if you have wiggle room in your itinerary, I urge you to carve out a little longer.

Here are the must-dos in this chaotic yet charming metropolis.

First things first: Pick your hotel strategically

With millions of scooters, honking is how Hanoi serenades. Additionally, the country’s construction industry – fuelled by rapid urbanisation – is experiencing a boom. It’s a deafening soundscape and one that rattled me for the first few days.

The best places to stay are in the quieter (by Hanoi standards) neighbourhoods of Hoàn Kiếm district, which is home to the 1000-year-old Old Quarter. Cửa Đông, Văn Miếu and Hàng Bông are all on the Eastern side of Hoan Kiem Lake. Pick a hotel in an alley, request a high room, ask if there’s nearby construction, and secure yourself a sanctuary of sorts.

If you’re after more serenity, the Tây Hồ district by West Lake is modern, quiet, clean and has a bunch of fancy hotels. It’s an expat hub, so Western-style cafes and restaurants are dotted about.

Take advantage of $3 speciality coffee

I’m not exaggerating when I say I’d travel to Hanoi again just for the coffee. The country is the second biggest coffee producer in the world, and unique combinations such as egg coffee, salted coffee and coconut coffee are staples. But it’s the cold brew and iced lattes I dream about.

Little Pie is quite possibly the sweetest cafe I’ve ever seen. It’s a laid-back, three-storey joint down a residential alley, filled with cosy antiques and home to a very fat Scottish Fold cat, whose name translates to Iron Cube. Get there by taking a 15-minute scooter from the Old Quarter and across the Red River to Long Biên. Climb the ladder to the tree-house-inspired room, or take off your shoes and lounge about on the squishy floor cushions. Order an iced latte and a just-baked croissant, and say hi to Iron Cube from me.

Back near the Old Quarter, Lermalermer, in a lovely alley in Đống Đa, is another cosy haunt fitted out with a mezzanine, excellent cold brew and a small snack menu. Out front, chairs face the street, European-style, and the tapestry that hangs in the doorway is a nod to inclusivity. ‘You are your colour’ it says, in a rainbow palette, before moving on to a relaxed, Mediterranean-style courtyard. Inside, art adorns the walls, armchairs are plush and mismatched, baristas are in very cool fits, and a Pride flag hangs in one corner. Try a cold brew paired with fruit, such as plum or mango.

Also try: Giao Mùa, in Lý Thái Tổ, is a multi-level cafe that looks like it was reeled in from Dr. Seuss’ Whoville. Curved plaster walls, paper mache light shades, spiral staircases and misshapen window frames give the space a fantasy edge, but the coffee is unfussy, strong and delicious. Another firm favourite is 186 Coffee Stand, in Trần Hưng Đạo, which is the cafe home of Hanoi roastery 186. The earthy wooden shop, positioned in a quiet residential street, has a bench outside – perfect to sit with a cuppa and watch local life.

Hunch over food on a too-small stool

Hanoi is a street-food city. Tiny, colourful plastic stools and rickety tables have become emblematic; yet despite their prevalence, it’s illegal for shop owners to encroach on sidewalks. When the police do random checks, the shop owners pack away their temporary street restaurant, and when the police leave, the pavement reclaims the beloved plastic.

As for what to eat, go where the locals go. Hải Xệ – Bánh Rán Cao Lâu in Hàng Buồm, is a hole-in-the-wall doughnut shop that’s been a firm favourite for more than 30 years. Their deep-fried doughnuts, made from glutinous rice flour and stuffed with sweet mung bean paste, are everything you want in a doughnut: oily, pillowy, and a sticky sugary shell.

Sticky rice is a staple in Vietnam, so Xôi Yến, located in Hàng Bạc, is another local favourite. Plates of xoi (Vietnamese sticky rice) are served with various meats, vegetables or egg. Try the Xôi Xéo, which is a combination of turmeric sticky rice topped with mung bean paste, crispy shallots and vegetable fat. It’s served with a zingy cucumber salad.

If you have a sweet tooth, sticky rice ticks that box too. Hoa Quả Dầm Hoa Béo is a delicious dessert bar in Hàng Gai that serves beloved Vietnamese treats. Xôi là dừa is a pandan-flavoured sticky rice topped with fresh mango, toasted and shaved coconut. It’s ridiculously moreish.

Also try: Other dishes to look out for include Bún chả (vermicelli noodles, topped with caramelised pork meatballs, or crispy spring rolls for vegetarians, salad and dipping sauce), Phở (a herby, sweetly spiced breakfast broth) and, the West’s favourite, Bánh mì (head to Banh Mi 25 for some of the most popular). Wash it all down with thirst-quenching kumquat juice.

See the sights

Train Street, as it’s colloquially called, is a tourist hotspot. It’s where a train track carves through a narrow alley of residential houses and cafes, and the regularly scheduled train forces locals to shoo their pets off the tracks, pack their tables away, and scream at tourists posing behind selfie sticks. The police have had a more watchful eye in recent years, so there’s now a barrier to enter. The best method to get through and secure your spot is to send a message to one of the many cafes down the street and ask for an invitation to sit at one of their tables. They’ll escort you through the police presence, and you’ll get your thrill as the train whizzes by a mere two feet away.

Văn Miếu, or The Temple of Literature in English, was Vietnam’s first university and is now a temple that honours Chinese philosopher Confuscius. Built in 1070, the temple is centred within lush green grounds, dotted with ponds that are home to vibrant koi fish and hot pink lotuses. Wander through the ancient structures, then pop to nearby Hien Minh Tea for a cup of lotus tea.

Also try: Tran Quoc Pagoda is the oldest Buddhist temple in Hanoi. Perched on an island at the southern end of West Lake, it’s a picturesque place to buy a coconut and peruse the history. Another essential nature spot is Hoan Kiem lake, where if you visit in the early hours of the morning or just after dark, you’ll see Vietnamese women taking dance classes and others practising tai chi. It’s a vibrant bookend to either side of your day.

Find hidden bars

Saint Joseph’s Cathedral is a lookalike Notre Dame, built in the neo-Gothic style of the 1880s. The best view of the towering church and the leafy trees surrounding it is from the balcony of Hanoi House Bar. To get to this suave cocktail bar requires perseverance. Follow Google Maps to a small alley, and then it’s up to you and your intuition. This is the nature of many cafes and bars in Hanoi, so just go with it. When you’ve found the spot, order the Sau, which is a concoction of aged rum, fermented dracontomelon fruit, ginger syrup and fish sauce.

Wong Bar Wine, inspired by Hong Kong director Wong Kar-wai, took me a good 15 minutes to find once I’d decided I was in the right alleyway in the French Quarter. A small sign that reads ‘In the end, wine’ is hung above a sliding metal door. A couple of lanterns hang outside, but otherwise there’s no invitation to enter. Once you do, though, it’s like you’ve stumbled upon the best secret: only 10 people could comfortably sit in the soft red glow. The menu features wine from around the world, and you’ll even spot a New Zealand drop if you’re lucky. Afterwards, finish the night off with a $1 beer on a plastic stool at a nondescript street stall. It’s the Hanoi way.

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