A Fijian destination like no other, Vomo Island’s unassuming nature brings new meaning to the term ‘quiet luxury’. Dan Ahwa spends a few glorious days submerged in its chill-vibes-only ethos — and its infinity pool.
You may have seen it scrolling past your feed on social media.
Sunkissed letters in
Like a mini tribute to another famous lettered sign in Los Angeles, this one is only a fraction of the size but still begs for a (corny) photo opportunity. I can’t help myself. It’s part of the pleasure of being off-duty; the unapologetic opportunity to indulge in a tourist’s rite of passage of taking photos in front of local landmarks. There’s another identical Vomo sign stationed near its helicopter landing pad further down the island, but the one by the pool is its most glamorous.
The signs are one of the distinctive visual markers that stand out on the 87ha of land on the island’s only resort. It’s here that my wife and I spend four idyllic days on a couple’s retreat, and while its beachside bures and neighbourhood of private luxury residences are elegantly framed by rich vegetation like a hushed gated community, its Vomo signs are the only visual cues that shout.
But they aren’t incongruous to the surroundings either. Because here is a Fijian resort that does its best to balance the needs of its various clientele; from families with young children, to solo travellers and couples. There’s enough space for each type of traveller to co-exist in peaceful equilibrium. During our stay there, we avoided its main Reef Restaurant by the main reception area except for breakfast and one day for lunch on the beach purely because we’d found our haven close to our bure on the western part of the island — the adults-only pool, bar and restaurant at The Rocks.
I’ve never understood why people try to cram as much as possible into a holiday, particularly at a place that encourages you to switch off and wind down. Our first day on the Island saw us arriving at 11am after hitching a ride with South Sea Cruises from Port Denarau Marina. Stopping mid-ocean to transfer on to a smaller speedboat, the approximately 75-minute journey ended when we arrived at Vomo with a sigh of relief. Now here was a sight for tired travellers’ eyes — white sand beaches caressed by turquoise waters.
After the administration of signing in — a painless experience wedged between a welcome song from staff and a refreshing guava juice, we made a beeline for The Rocks immediately, where said infinity pool was stationed, complemented by an open bar, dreamy daybeds and a majestic view of the Pacific Ocean that stretches as far as the eye can see, where the impressive archipelago string of the Mamanuca Islands rests, lying west of Nadi to the south of the Yasawa Islands. This was to become our base for the next four days.
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Advertise with NZME.Our bure is one of two new builds which opened towards the end of last year and was conveniently located next to The Rocks. Couples looking for a romantic holiday destination are taken good care of here; after checking into our villa at number 40 we were greeted by a lush fruit bowl and Cuvee on ice. Nestled on the private beachfront of Mamanuca Beach, the spacious villa is great for families too, with a generous deck, private garden and a large private plunge pool.
After checking in it made sense to cool down after a morning of travelling to ease into island time with a swim in the pool and a chance to sample the resort’s food. It’s worth noting at this point the service from the wait staff was in the tradition of Fijian hospitality — incredibly friendly and hospitable, but not overbearing. There’s a sense here that the discreet sensibility extends to the way staff are attentive and warm, but not always in your space. They pick up on small nuances quickly and make sure your preferences for dining across the island are taken care of and booked in efficiently each day.
Drying off in the cabana beds, we order lunch on the first day — fresh sushi using sustainably caught seafood, kokoda (raw fish with fresh coconut cream and lemon juice), and a bowl of cassava chips.
While the resort is family-friendly, a concerted effort is made by its operators to ensure adults and couples can enjoy their downtime in peace, with several activities tailored specifically for adults only to enjoy, from romantic gourmet picnics (there’s a picnic basket ready for you in your bure) to the standard tailored spa treatments for two. In fact, there’s an entire package dedicated to the rising phenomenon of babymoons.
Vomo rests comfortably on its base shouldered by Mt Vomo — a touch under 500 metres in elevation, to the east. It’s this impressive peak that helps define the overall feel of Vomo — private, tranquil, and not overly manicured. Yes, they do a beautiful job maintaining its gardens, but unlike some of the various resorts I’ve visited in Fiji over the years, Vomo feels authentic to the beauty of its natural landscape, its undulating form left to speak for itself like most volcanic islands (Savaii in Samoa is a perfect example of this rugged beauty).
This natural beauty is enhanced by the island’s commitment to sustainably taking care of its premises — Vomo belongs to the Mamanuca Environment Society, an organisation founded in 2001 that focuses on protecting the local marine environment. My favourite eco-observation was the promotion of reusable bottles and the adoption of eWater chemical-free cleaning solutions, created to reduce single-use plastics.
Back in the pool, I find myself often swimming towards the edge overlooking the ocean and straight ahead at Vomo Lailai, or small Vomo, known as “the little princess across the way”, an idyllic spot where you can head out on a boat for a gourmet picnic. If you crane your neck towards the heavens, a word of warning — cheeky wood swallows will flit about you for a splash in the pool in quick, kamikaze-like succession.
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Advertise with NZME.Come sunset, it’s the perfect place to watch the mesmerising parade of fruit bats elegantly swooping in from Vomo Lailai (where they sleep during the day) to feast on the main island’s abundance of mango trees. We spent every day on a daybed there with a sundowner around 5pm to see the flying parade of fruit bats, a choreographed display of aerodynamic wonder.
And speaking of well-timed choreography, the pool plays host in the mornings to a range of water activities (Zumba in the pool, anyone?).
I managed to check out the gym a couple of times during my stay — a small unassuming cottage hiding behind a jungle near the spa. The two times I am there I act as a quasi-staff member, switching on the lights and music and then switching them off as I leave. Because I was apparently the only sad person who made use of it, it was a signal to me of the state of mind encouraged here.
Why spend time lifting weights and walking on a treadmill when you have everything you need to stay fit in the comfort of your bure or on the water? If chilling by the pool needs to be tempered with some physical activity, skip the gym and book in at Ocean Play, the resort’s water sports hub.
Book your activities in the morning if you can — we did this every morning en route to breakfast at the Reef Restaurant in the main dining room. Availability of activities can book out quickly, and because there’s no shoulder season (the resort was at 98 per cent occupancy when we were there last November), it pays to not be deceived by the resort’s tranquillity and ensure you are prepared to enjoy the range of fun activities on offer because some spaces are limited. It’s here where the resort also acts as a rehabilitation centre for injured turtles, working with a marine biologist to help nurse them to good health, which offers another layer of interest for both adults and kids.
On day two we managed to pull ourselves away from the lull at The Rocks and head out on a snorkel expedition with the local captain to a nearby spot for uninterrupted snorkelling to survey the surrounding healthy coral colonies with a couple of surprise cameos from a couple of baby sharks. On day three, we adventurously booked in some time with a Fliteboard, gliding through the glorious waters of Vomo with hydrodynamic efficiency.
If it’s something more land-based you’re after outside of a snooze on the beach, I suggest a decent pair of walking shoes or trainers. A good hike is something that we enjoy doing on a holiday, and on our final day we ambitiously rise at 5am and head with a map towards Mt Vomo to see the sunrise.
It takes about 15-30 minutes depending on your fitness levels to reach the summit, and once you get to the purpose-built yoga deck it’s a sight to behold, especially at that reflective time of day when morning has broken (or sunset if you can swing a romantic dinner there).
The impressive backdrop is the kind of vista you think about when wanting to propose to someone, and another photo opportunity waiting to happen. The harmonious combination of a sunkissed Mt Vomo and the gentle breeze after a rigorous hike is the perfect way to seize those positive endorphins.
Because when in Vomo, anything is possible.
It’s all in the details
Small details made a memorable impact on the ground.
Retail therapy . . . Resort gift shops can be hit or miss, but Vomo’s small yet well-stocked gift shop has a range of local goods that make for great gifts for family and friends back home. There’s not a great selection of sunblock on offer (and prices were expensive for what was available), so come prepared. It’s also one of the few that sells items from the non-profit organisation Rise Beyond The Reef, which sells crafts created by women in remote parts of Fiji. Read about their recent collaboration with fashion designer Karen Walker.
Our bure had a great kitchenette stocked with a range of locally made artisanal snacks, including the best cassava chips from Grace Farm and a jar of homemade oatmeal cookies.
The Kui Spa at Vomo is a luxurious sanctuary and offers a range of great couple’s massages in a tranquil jungle setting. It’s worth trialling their Sodashi products, which are 100 per cent chemical-free. A special mention for the creative floral art on display around the spa.
The carved turtle in our room serves as a helpful way to communicate to housekeeping when you need your linens changed. Plus, you can purchase these wooden trinkets from the gift shop, which makes for a great souvenir.
Dan Ahwa travelled to Vomo Island courtesy of Fiji Tourism.
Getting there
In a mere few hours, you’re in paradise.
Fiji Airways flies 10 times a week from Auckland to Nadi, twice weekly from Wellington, and three times per week from Christchurch. Fijiairways.com
Accommodation and bookings
There’s something for everyone and more.
There are seven hillside and 21 beachside bures on Vomo Island. Six private luxury residences are available, offering three to five bedrooms, private pools, lounges, kitchens and plenty of space for entertaining. Two new family-style villas are also available and open out on to the Mamanuca beachside. Vomofiji.com
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