The best way to explore a new travel destination is to take note of how locals make full use of their hometown. In Hong Kong, it’s all about embracing its melting pot of culture, urban planning and diverse history.
Chit-chat
Along with luggage, pack these easy, everyday words and phrases
There are 7.4 million residents of various nationalities that reside in Hong Kong, a 1104sq km territory. This level of density (Hong Kong is the fourth most densely populated region in the world) means there are people to meet and greet on every corner. Cantonese remains the dominant language with 96% of its citizens speaking it. As for Mandarin, 48% of Hong Kong’s population can speak it, compared with 46% of the population who speak English.
Neih hou – Pronounced “nay hou”, means “hello” in Cantonese.
Mh-goi – Meaning “please” or “excuse me”, “mh-goi” is a versatile word that can be used in various situations, such as getting someone’s attention or asking for assistance. Pronounced as “m-goy”.
Do jeh – When expressing gratitude, saying “do jeh”, meaning “thank you”, goes a long way in showing appreciation for someone’s help or service. Pronounced as “doh jeh”.
Neih yiu mhh? – In communication, it’s important to establish whether the other person understands your language. This phrase asks “Do you understand?” and can help ensure smooth communication when encountering language barriers. Pronounced as “nay yew moh?”
Baai baai – Finally, when it’s time to bid farewell, saying “baai baai”, meaning “goodbye”, is a friendly and polite way to end your interaction. Pronounced as “bye bye”.
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Advertise with NZME.Get around
Hong Kong is a city on the move and its myriad transport options are one of the luxuries of living there.
Busses come in several varieties, including double-deckers and smaller, van-sized light buses (which require some Cantonese fluency).
There’s a good metro system, and the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) network can take you around Hong Kong with its below and above-ground lines.
Trams are a novelty – but a norm for locals – and their skinny, double-decker railcars shuttle around the streets giving you a great view of the city as you pass through. Enter at the back and pay before you leave.
Visitors are advised to get an Octopus Card, which you can pick up at MTR Stations’ ticket machines and customer counter, paying in cash, and these can be topped up at places such as 7-11.
Ferries traverse Victoria Harbour, with many commuters using them to get from Hong Kong Island to the Kowloon side. They’re joined on the water by the cinematic junk boats, carrying tourists for a view of the city.
And in a real old-meets-new evolution, Uber can be used to ride those famous red taxis.
Chill out
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Advertise with NZME.After all that rushing around, you may need a moment of relaxation in one of Hong Kong’s several urban oases.
Hong Kongers work hard but also know the importance of downtime; locals will perch at an old-school yuenyeung shop to read the paper or catch up with friends.
There are also many dedicated spaces that offer peace and quiet. While most people might readily associate Hong Kong with its towering buildings and flashing cityscapes, it’s a region also filled with green spaces for rest, meditation and relaxation.
Your first port of call is Hong Kong Park, located next to Cotton Tree Drive in Central. Covering 8ha, it’s an outstanding example of modern design and facilities that seamlessly blend with the natural landscape. From bird watching to the Museum of Teaware (its collection of antique Chinese porcelain teaware made in Yixing in Jiangsu Province is not to be missed), there’s plenty to do when you need to unwind away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
In Kowloon, the historical appeal of the Kowloon Walled City Park is also worth visiting for its peacefulness and its Qing dynasty-inspired designs. A military enclave in the 19th century and then an ungoverned, crime-ridden settlement until its demolition in the 1980s, the infamous Kowloon Walled City is now the site of a tranquil park.
Several of its key features are artifacts, including remnants of one of its gates and the facade of a yamen, a building that dates back to the Qing dynasty and once functioned as administrative offices. There’s also a free guided tour on the history of the Walled City and the architecture of the park.
Queer Hong Kong
Hong Kong is considered an LGBTQ+ tolerant destination with a growing and politically engaged LGBTQ+ community.
If you’re looking for gay-friendly areas in Hong Kong, the majority of these are located in the Central District entertainment zone (SoHo) and Sheung Wan’s Jervois St on Hong Kong Island. Take the time to explore the vibrant bars and clubs there. For a quick shortcut to Hong Kong’s cool queer set, try the all-inclusive Mihn Club in Sheung Wan, which hosts a monthly party called Host that invites guest creatives from around the world. No dress code – and no photos.
Another great LGBTQ+ highlight in Hong Kong is the Queer Reads Library: Mobile Literary Engagement. A celebration of queer literature, the mobile library requires you to check into its Instagram account for its most up-to-date location. Curating a collection of thought-provoking books and publications that spotlight queer arts and literature, its founders also host discussions with leading voices in the community. For a full survey of its current library, visit Qrlib.net.
Producer and filmmaker Sophia Shek finds a lot of safe spaces in Hong Kong. Soho House is their home away from home. “I hang out there whenever I am on Hong Kong Island side.”
In Kowloon, there’s Eaton Hotel, which flies a pride flag. “Many community functions and film screenings are held there. Their support is very important to the community.”
For a drink, Sophia recommends heading to the heart of Kowloon. “The bar Terrible Baby is also great with a wonderful terrace,” they advise, and great cocktails.
“One more space I would like to give a shout out to is South Bay beach. Known as the gay beach of Hong Kong. It’s a quiet beach away from the tourist area.”
Spiritual guidance
Another layer of respite and one close to a Hong Konger’s heart is finding zen at one of its majestic shrines.
There’s an assortment of beautiful temples and shrines in Hong Kong, and whether it is finding somewhere to harness inner peace or to learn about local customs, one of our favourites was arguably one of Hong Kong’s best-known temples – the Man Mo Temple on Hollywood Rd.
The largest shrine built in honour of the God of Literature (Man Cheong) and the God of War (Mo Tai), the two deities were popular among scholars and students who sought support and spiritual guidance in their studies in the Ming and Qing dynasties.
Take your hats and sunglasses off when inside and pay your respects as you take in the coils of incense that hang against a backdrop of red and gold.
Next door to the temple, you’ll also find Lit Shing Kung, where other deities are worshipped, and Kung Sor, which was once used as an assembly hall for the local community.
Elsewhere in the heart of the city, the Chi Lin Nunnery is worth a visit. Regarded as Hong Kong’s most important Buddhist sanctum, the nunnery reflects traditional Tang dynasty (618–907) design aesthetics. Next to it is a beautiful garden known as the Nan Lian Garden, which also features several permanent exhibitions and a vegetarian restaurant housed beneath a manmade waterfall.
Take a walk
Hong Kong is the perfect place to explore on foot.
From the soaring skyscrapers and futuristic outdoor advertising, to the patina and denizens of the older neighbourhoods and vestiges of Wong Kar-wai’s Hong Kong, this metropolis is jam-packed full of life and it’s all so beautiful.
You’ll learn a lot by looking, so carve out time to pound the pavement, or park up at one of the many street-side cafes (there are old and new options) to watch Hong Kongers – and the many, many pampered pets – go about their day.
Flower power
For the best blooms in Hong Kong, be swept away by its colourful flower vendors.
While Mong Kok is a feast for the senses with a veritable assortment of markets selling everything from street snacks to sneakers, don’t miss the opportunity to be swept up (as our cover model Ziyi has) with the streets and vendors that inhabit its famous flower market. It’s here Hong Kongers descend when they need fresh flowers for a bargain.
Especially busy during Lunar New Year festivities, you’ll find everything from cut flowers, potted plants, seeds and bulbs or orchids. What’s even more heavenly for visitors is the abundance of tropical plants from frangipanis to orchids that thrive in Hong Kong’s sub-tropical climate.
Reading is fundamental
Whether you’re heading to Hong Kong and want to school yourself on the region’s history, or prefer to transport yourself there via the page, these books provide an insightful look into the architecture and spaces that have helped define the city.
Old Hong Kong: The Way We Were by award-winning photographer Lau Koon Tan features more than100 photos from the 1960s and 1970s, spanning everything from public housing to transportation – you’ll find it in the gift shop at the Mandarin Oriental.
For urbanists and architecture aficionados, Walter Koditek’s comprehensive book Hong Kong Modern: Architecture of the 1950s-1970s can’t be skipped. It renders the city’s famous buildings expansive detail across page after page of exteriors.
Deep Water: Public Spaces in Sham Shui Po Hong Kong, edited by Jürgen Krusche and Siu King Chung, provides a thoughtful look at the nuances and variety of life in this old neighbourhood of Kowloon – one that’s densely built and populous.
Hero Image / Ziying Zhao from Quest Models wears James Bush coat, Juliette Hogan dress, Yim Tom earrings and Nicole Rebstock heels. Photographer / Babiche Martens. Fashion Director / Dan Ahwa. Hair and make-up / Krystina Te Kanawa. Shoot assistant / Emma Gleason
Viva travelled to Hong Kong courtesy of Hong Kong Tourism Board. Cathay Pacific flies daily from Auckland to Hong Kong.
