The Dish: Omni Is Closing, Hill House Cafe Has A New Home & More Food News

By Johanna Thornton
Viva
Esther has launched a new high tea menu with a Mediterranean twist.

Aotearoa is swirling with food news this week. Here’s a mighty serving of hospitality happenings, from new menus to new openings and pop-ups for a good cause.

Viaduct restaurant Esther launches high-tea

Renowned restaurant Esther at Auckland’s QT Hotel is launching a high tea offering on April 13

Experience food, wine and music at The Runholder in April. Photo / Sam Cameron
Experience food, wine and music at The Runholder in April. Photo / Sam Cameron

Book in for an autumnal feast and music at The Runholder in Martinborough

When Viva’s Julia Gessler visited The Runholder in 2023 she said it was “poised to be what Amisfield is to Queenstown, what Craggy Range is to Hawke’s Bay, a destination for when what you really want is to understand wine at a molecular level”. A cellar door restaurant designed by Nott Architects, The Runholder is home to Te Kairanga and Martinborough Vineyards and houses rare, new-release and library wines from these iconic Martinborough producers. On Friday, April 26, The Runholder will host an autumnal feast accompanied by music from the New Zealand String Quartet. Comprising of Helene Pohl (Violin I), Monique Lapins (Violin II), Gillian Ansell (Viola) and Rolf Gjelsten (Cello), The Quartet will play a collection of pieces alongside a three-course dinner designed by head chef Tim Smith with produce from Wairarapa. Book your tickets via iTicket. An Autumnal Feast with the New Zealand String Quartet runs from 5.30pm-9.30pm and tickets cost $125pp which includes a drink on arrival, the concert, a shuttle and a three-course autumn menu. Find more info on the event here.

Ferry straight to Man O’ War vineyard on Waiheke

The Viva team spent a sunny day on Waiheke Island at Man O’ War Vineyard to experience Explore Group’s new direct ferry service from Auckland Viaduct to the eastern end of the island. Anyone who’s made the journey from Matiatia Wharf on the opposite side of Waiheke to Man O’War knows it’s quite the journey to get there by car. This direct route delivers you straight to a newly extended jetty a short walk from Man O’ War’s beachfront cellar door and restaurant. The sailing, which is about 90 minutes, cruises through the islands of the Hauraki Gulf and the Man O’ War experience starts as soon as you hop on board with wines available by the glass. On arrival at Man O’ War, the Viva team was treated to a tour around the vineyard, which is an impressive estate home to 75 vineyards on sloping sites with incredible views of the surrounding islands. Man O’ War is known for its syrah, chardonnay and Waiheke’s signature Bordeaux blends, as well as sauvignon blanc, pinot gris and rose. We sampled a cold glass of Tulia Blanc de Blanc alongside a tray of oysters high up on the ridgeline with views of Coromandel, one of many highlights of the day that saw us have lunch and wander the grounds. At the restaurant, which is open Wednesday to Saturday, there are diverse share plates ideal for pairing with wine, like Te Matuku oysters, charcuterie plates, Cloudy Bay clams, truffle fries and pizza. You can book in for a private tasting, or sit outside and enjoy the sea view over a bottle of wine. Prices for a return trip to Man O’ War are $95 per adult and $50 per child. Bookings for wine tastings and the Tasting Room restaurant are highly recommended and can be made directly with Man O’ War. For more information about sailing times visit Exploregroup.co.nz.

A table of Daphnes’ brunch fare, including the cheese milk bun.
A table of Daphnes’ brunch fare, including the cheese milk bun.

Ponsonby restaurant Daphnes has introduced a new brunch menu

Daphnes’ Clare and Joost van den Berg are returning to their cafe roots with the announcement of a new brunch menu at their Ponsonby Road restaurant. The hospitality duo, who launched Ponsonby’s Zus and Zo, Takapuna’s Zomer, and central Auckland’s Hugos Bistro and Odettes Eatery, know a good breakfast when they see one. Now they’re expanding their food offering at Daphnes so diners can enjoy their Mediterranean-inspired fare all day. Recently appointed executive chef Alfie Ingham, who Clare and Joost worked with as head chef at Hugos Bistro, has reinterpreted classic brunch fare for the breakfast menu with standout dishes like an egg and cheese milk bun, which encases a Japanese style omelette between a soft toasted milk bun with melty cheese. There’s taramasalata on toast with anchovies and a silky soft boiled egg; and halloumi fritters doused in spicy, herbaceous honey. Children will like the crepes with Duck Island Fairy Bread icecream and soft-boiled eggs and soldiers. Daphnes Morning Menu will be served from 7am Wednesday to Friday, and 8am Saturday and Sunday, from Wednesday, April 10, 2024. 71 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.

Taco Teca's brunch menu.
Taco Teca's brunch menu.

City Works Depot’s Mexican restaurant Taco Teca does brunch now

Taqueria, cantina and tortilleria Tacoteca is offering a new “Almuerzo” brunch menu on Sundays to complement its lunch and dinner offerings. It will serve Mexican breakfast favourites inspired by dishes owners Jean Brito and Edmundo Farrera love to eat like Enchiladas Veracruz, which is three rolled corn tortillas in a black bean sauce, filled with scrambled eggs, queso fresco and crema. There’s Huevos Rancheros with two fried eggs on corn tortillas, refried beans, crema, grated halloumi and red tomato or green tomatillo salsa and Huevos Completos — two eggs fried or scrambled, chorizo, refried beans, salsa macha, guacamole and tortillas, among other new brunch options. To drink, choose from Mexican Café de Olla with spiced coffee, cinnamon, star anise and cloves; filter coffee; Horchata, a house-made rice milk drink with cinnamon; and breakfast cocktails like bloody Marys and espresso martinis with a Mexican twist (they’re made with mezcal instead of vodka). Almuerzo brunch at Tacoteca City Works Depot will run on Sundays from 10.30am-3pm. Bookings recommended. City Works Depot 1/90 Wellesley St West, Auckland CBD.

Pah Homestead in Monte Cecilia Park. Photo / Alex Burton
Pah Homestead in Monte Cecilia Park. Photo / Alex Burton

Beloved Hill House Cafe has found a new home at Pah Homestead

It was sad news all around when the Hill House Cafe team announced the impending closure of its Manurewa cafe due to planned earthquake works on Nathan Homestead. But now, Hill House Cafe has found a new home at historic Pah Homestead in Monte Cecelia Park from April 16. Hill House Cafe has made a name for itself with its delicious baked goods and Allpress coffee. Its scones have made Viva’s best Auckland cheese scones list and its cinnabuns were named on the 100 Auckland Iconic Eats list last year. The team posted on Instagram about its new location: “We’re thrilled to share that Pah Homestead will be our new home from 16 April. Huge thanks to The Art House Trust for extending the warm invitation to this incredible historic gem nestled in Monte Cecilia Park. Housing one of NZ’s largest art collections, the venue hosts a regular rotation of exhibitions, concerts, markets and artist workshops. A special shoutout to director Anita, event manager Jan and the whole team for their incredible support and making our transition a breeze!” The last day for the Manurewa location will be on Saturday, April 13. 72 Hillsborough Road, Hillsborough.

The cheery yellow exterior of 269 Parnell. Photo / Johnnie Crawford
The cheery yellow exterior of 269 Parnell. Photo / Johnnie Crawford

Food and market precinct Parnell 269 set to open in Parnell later this year

Viva previewed the new Parnell 269 precinct as part of a media lunch to share the vision of Kevin Harvey, son of Les Harvey (Parnell’s founding father), who intends to turn 269 Parnell Rise into a food complex made up of vendors and a weekend market celebrating a European, Mediterranean and Latin American theme. The location is a Gaudi-esque yellow building midway up the rise that is currently under construction to turn it into a hub for food and drinks. The food will be simple, traditional dishes with a Mediterranean flavour. Vendors will serve tapas-sized dishes designed to share in open spaces at communal tables that invite connection, conversation and community. Locked in is Aula’s Kitchen (Israeli food), Taco Amaiz (a Northern Mexican taqueria) and Tambo Eatery (Peruvian). “I want people to have somewhere to go to share all kinds of tapas, have a drink and listen to music — people from all around the world, all different backgrounds sitting together and enjoying themselves,” says Kevin. Watch this space. Follow 269 on Instagram or sign up to the website to get updates on vendors. 269 Parnell Rd, Auckland.

Bluff Gin is a newcomer to the local spirits market with maritime traditions at its heart

Move over Bluff oysters, there’s a new contender for the southern town’s best-known export. Gin. Bluff Distillery is a new gin distillery housed in a converted ex-freezing works at Ocean Beach with views over Foveaux Strait. Its Bluff London Dry Gin is a local version of London Dry Gin with aromas of juniper, citrus and berries. Described as smooth and unctuous with a long finish, the gin heroes botanicals, including juniper, coriander, liquorice root, orris root, hibiscus flower and lemongrass. It also sold out within 48 hours of its release. Co-founder and distiller Chris Fraser describes this gin as clean, bold and unapologetically authentic: “We like our oysters fresh, and our gin clean. Our spirits are designed to prepare you for whatever the next swell may bring.” It is also housed in a beautiful blue glass bottle, a nod to Bluff’s ubiquitous buoys and maritime heritage. $90 for a bottle, from Bluffdistillery.com

Customs in Wellington.
Customs in Wellington.

Where do creatives drink their coffee in New Zealand?

Viva asked a coterie of coffee fiends where they get their caffeine fix, from designers to photographers and illustrators and their answers were illuminating. Poet Chris Tse, favours Home Cafe in the National Library for his usual flat white. ”It’s right next to my office and it’s also super-handy when I need to meet library staff about Poet Laureate matters.” The “legendary” cheese scones and breakfast muffins are good picks from the menu, though Chris most appreciates the cafe-meets-library as a gathering space. “There’s lots of light and space, and comfortable seats, which makes it a great place to have a catch-up with friends or meet people for more ‘proper’ meetings. And I love that it shows that libraries can be more than just about books — they’re spaces that are integral to bringing communities together.” Find more great personal coffee spot recommendations across the country here.

Jo Bros Josh Barlow and Brody Jenkins.
Jo Bros Josh Barlow and Brody Jenkins.

Enjoy burgers and give back to charity with JoBro’s burger pop-up

Want to eat a great burger designed by a top chef and give back to charity at the same time? Now you can with the Jo Bro’s Burgers team’s new month-long initiative in support of the Sir John Kirwin Foundation. Jo Bro’s Josh Barlow and Brody Jenkins met when working at The Grove and have since teamed up to open their burger food truck, which pops up at markets, functions and festivals, and now has a brick-and-mortar site in Titirangi. Their latest venture Burgers for Better is a month-long pop-up at Ponsonby Social Club, which will see them slinging burgers from Thursday to Saturday with the help of some high-profile hospitality pals like Ben Bayly, Lucas Parkinson of Aryeh, Michael Meredith, Sean Conolly and ex-All Black Sir John Kirwin. One hundred per cent of food sales profit will be donated to the Sir John Kirwan Foundation, providing young people with skills and knowledge to recognise and respond to mental health issues both in themselves and others. John Kirwan’s special burger is the Burger Pastin, with a Venetian long roll, Ohau wagyu and pork patty, provolone cheese, grilled capsicum, mustard and horseradish cream. Running every Thursday-Saturday, 5pm-10pm in April. Ponsonby Social Club, 152 Ponsonby Rd, Ponsonby.

Harbourside's sake pop-up. Photo / Babiche Martens
Harbourside's sake pop-up. Photo / Babiche Martens

In case you missed it: Enjoy sake and sushi by the sea at Harbourside Ocean Bar Grill

Harbourside Ocean Bar Grill has shaken things up with the launch of its pop-up sake bar. Housed in the bar area of the restaurant on level two of the historic Ferry Building in downtown Auckland, The Harbourside Sake Bar offers a menu of sushi and sashimi platters matched with local and international sake. The bar, with its large windows framing the harbour views just outside, has had a mini makeover with Japanese-inspired decals running the length of the bar and hung on the walls. To eat, there are classic sashimi, sushi and seafood platters for two or more, as well as small plates like popcorn prawns, freshly shucked oysters and karaage chicken. For those after a quick bite and a drink before a ferry, the Kyoto Tasting Plate is the ideal option, with gurnard and trevally sashimi and salmon sushi for $19. For best results, pair it with Pure Black, Yukino Bijn or Kid sake. The sake menu has some gems on it, including locally made Zenkuro (brewed in Queenstown), as well as yuzu sake and a zero per cent alcohol sake. Harbourside Sake Bar’s bartenders also have a selection of cocktails to offer, such as the Suzuki Martini with Absolut vodka and Doburoku Unfiltered sake. The Harbourside Sake Bar is open 12pm-late for lunch and dinner. Bookings available at Harboursidesakebar.nz. Level 1/99 Quay Street, Auckland CBD.

Cookbook Club: Anna Jones Easy Wins

If you’re looking for a new cookbook to add to your collection, we highly recommend London-based cook and writer Anna Jones’ new book, Easy Wins. Anna is known for her brilliant vegetarian cooking and is the author of the bestselling One: Pot, Pan, Planet, A Modern Way to Eat, A Modern Way to Cook and The Modern Cook’s Year. Easy Wins is based on 12 hero ingredients, ones you’re likely to have in your pantry or fridge, like lemons, tahini, olive oil, onions and mustard. Anna has created 125 recipes from these ingredients, each deeply flavourful and the recipes easy to follow — yet sophisticated. Find recipes like one-pot pasta al limone; cheese and pickle roast potatoes with chilli-dressed leaves; and peanut butter and chocolate cookies. She also includes practical advice on how to season plus plenty of ideas for invaluable vegetarian swaps as well as how to reduce waste and use less energy when cooking. Easy Wins: 12 flavour hits by Anna Jones, RRP $60, 4th Estate, from good bookstores.

Peter Gordon at Homeland. Photograph / Michael Craig
Peter Gordon at Homeland. Photograph / Michael Craig

Some recent restaurant closures to share

It’s tough out there for hospitality and the past month has seen some significant closure announcements. Renowned chef Peter Gordon shared the news that his Westhaven restaurant and cooking school, Homeland, would close, with the restaurant shutting at the end of April and the cooking school wrapping up in July, due to the area being redeveloped into apartments. “Homeland’s premises and wider surroundings are being redeveloped and our landlord will not renew our lease. So with great sadness we are retreating,” said Peter Gordon in an announcement. “Our staff are hugely impacted, and we ask for space while we consult with them and work out what is next for the Homeland project. Homeland’s purposes are not finished. The problem is premises. We deeply thank our sponsors, supporters, customers and kaimahi (staff) for the support you have given us since opening in 2020.”

More recently, the Omni team announced the closure of their Dominion Rd, Auckland yakitori and natural wine restaurant. Owners John Yip and Jamie Yeon announced on Instagram: “After four wonderful years, we have decided to step away from Omni at the end of next month, with the restaurant to close on the 2nd of June. We have been working on a very special project … more on this later! The vision for Omni was always to bring something special to Auckland, we wanted to serve delicious food & drinks, have it be energetic, accessible and for our guests to be able to let their hair down. We can’t wait to celebrate with our lovely community of guests, some of whom have become more like family. A massive thank you to our amazing past and present staff, we love you!” Their last day of trading will be June 2.

Vic Road Kitchen. Photo / Rebecca Zephyr Thomas
Vic Road Kitchen. Photo / Rebecca Zephyr Thomas

What the Viva team has been eating ...

Mortadella flatbread from Vic Road Kitchen

“I’m always finding myself in Devonport, even though I live nowhere near it. It’s the best for leisurely neighbourhood walks where you can peek over fences at beautiful stately homes, and the ocean isn’t far away. A visit feels like a holiday by the sea. My go-to for a post-walk snack and drink is Vic Road Kitchen, which has a solid selection of sharing plates, a great drinks list and knowledgeable staff. I highly recommend the mortadella flatbread, which is housemade, blistered-in-the-oven flatbread topped with truffle cream, crispy parmesan and slices of mortadella (a cured Italian sausage dotted with pistachio). The menu changes often here so if you’re a morty D fan get in while you can.” 53-55 Victoria Rd, Devonport. Johanna Thornton, deputy editor

Carrots and ricotta from Ooh-Fa

“I visited Ooh-Fa with a small group of friends before Easter weekend, seeking overdue catch-ups and NZ-made wines. We started with the wood-fired carrots, which were served on a swirl of whipped ricotta and sprinkled with pistachios, before we tore apart our chosen pizza offerings. We split two pies between three, sampling the most basic, with tomato, garlic, oregano and stracciatella, as well as the oyster mushroom and mozzarella variety. Both were fantastic, with tasty charred edges and generous toppings of cheese (I’ll definitely order the oyster mushroom pie again). Although I was slightly intimidated by the casually cool patrons, I also loved the lively vibe — we left laughing that our fellow diners had likely overheard our gossipy conversation (as we had had with theirs).” 357 Dominion Rd, Mount Eden.Madeleine Crutchley, multimedia journalist

Katsu Katsu, Newmarket, Auckland. Photo / Babiche Martens
Katsu Katsu, Newmarket, Auckland. Photo / Babiche Martens

Chicken katsu from Katsu Katsu

“Last weekend I decided to head to Katsu Katsu, the Japanese restaurant in Newmarket that says what it is. It’s a broody, dimly lit space that’s perfect for holing up in in autumn, where you can sit at the breakfast bar and have one of the chefs pass over your set-menu tray straight from the kitchen. I had the tontori set menu, the chicken crispy and golden and perfect with various condiments to dip it in, which is half the fun. You can get free refills of the rice (excellent), cabbage (crunchy) and miso (incandescently warming), but I didn’t need them.” 483 Khyber Pass Road, Newmarket. Julia Gessler, multimedia journalist

Risotto agli spinaci from Bossi

“Last night, for the first time in a very long time, I had food envy. A group of four of us were parked up in a booth at Bossi for a much overdue catch-up. While me and the coeliac of the group were limited to gluten-free options (still delicious), the other two treated the Italian menu as their gastronomical playground. The pane all’aglio (also known as Bossi’s “famous” garlic bread) received rave reviews from the pair, who eagerly tore off portions and swirled them around the edge of the dish to soak up all of the buttery goodness the bread left behind. The second was the spaghetti aglio olio, served traditional style with plenty of garlic, chilli and olive oil. Swirled around a fork and slurped with gusto, I was about as green as the colour of my risotto agli spinaci by the end of the meal. Also of note was the impeccable service — I’m already planning my return.” — Ashleigh Cometti, beauty editor

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