A rustic dish from the cook’s new compendium of British Isles food, Rick Stein’s Food Stories, which boasts more than 100 recipes from his travels around the region.
I wrote this recipe for a Greek-style filo pie after going to Mary Quicke’s farm and dairy near Exeter. It was a thoroughly enjoyable visit and I was very impressed with Mary’s resistance to automation, favouring the manual skills of her very experienced team. Very laudable when you consider the enormous popularity of her Cheddar cheese. I took some home to make this vegetarian pie, but when I cooked it for an episode of Food Stories, I came a little unstuck as it was pointed out by more than one viewer that the cheese I used is made with rennet. I am pleased to suggest using one of her lovely vegetarian cheeses called Double Devonshire instead for this pie.
- Cook the potatoes in a pan of well-salted water (1 teaspoon of salt per 600ml), then drain and leave to cool. Cut them into slices 5-6mm thick. Wilt the spinach in a pan, then squeeze out as much of the liquid as possible.
- Heat the butter in a pan, add the onion and fry until soft and golden. Mix the cream with the eggs and mustard and season with black pepper.
- Preheat the oven to 210C/Fan 190C. Take a 23-25cm pie dish and layer 4 sheets of filo in the base, brushing each sheet with melted butter and alternating directions. Allow the excess to overhang the sides. Add half the sliced potato, scatter over some onion and spinach, then add half the cream mixture and cheese.
- Season with salt and pepper. Repeat with the remaining potato, spinach and onion, season again with salt and black pepper and top with remaining cream and cheese.
- Fold over the overhanging filo and then top with a further 3 or 4 sheets of filo, again brushing each one with melted butter. Brush the top of the pie with butter.
- Bake for 10 minutes in the preheated oven, then cover the top with a sheet of foil to prevent it burning. Turn the oven down to 190°C/Fan 170°C and cook for a further 20–25 minutes.
- Leave to cool in the tin for 5-10 minutes before serving.
Rick Stein’s Food Stories by Rick Stein, $65, published by BBC Books.
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