Pies Are Political. But Does Wellington Make The Leading Pastries?

Pies certainly inspire partisanship. Now, Te Whanganui-a-Tara has what might be one of the best fish pies in the country, plus a plethora of other notable candidates, from high-end to humble. Emma Gleason tried several of the top contenders on a recent trip to the capital.

There’s nothing quite like a steaming hot pie on a cold night. Even better if it conjures up a salty ocean squall, and there’s a pie currently being served in Wellington that does just that.

On the menu at family-run Capitol Restaurant for a brief time, until May 21, the pāua and smoked Cook Straight fish pie (nicknamed the “Pietarian”, a Dine Wellington Dish, and part of Visa Wellington On a Plate) is topped with a generous layer of golden pastry, and though its ingredients might suggest something intensely fishy and rich, the reality is far more delicate, with a squeeze of lime providing a balance of acidity, as does the fresh watercress on the side.

“Less is more,” explains chef and co-owner Tom Hutchison succinctly. “Don’t overthink it.” And when you know and love the flavours you’re working with — as is the case here — and trust your gut instinct, a new dish comes together quite easily.

This sophisticated simplicity and confidence that has become a signature of the bistro, in business for two decades now, an approach that begins as you round the corner of Majoribanks St on to Kent Tce, passing the gold-lettered windows and wooden Venetian blinds. And there is something indulgent about tucking into a special-occasion pie (it’s priced at $42, though large enough to share) while some Bollinger bottles are soldiered above the bar behind you; it’s not a paradox, more a balance — and that’s how you transform a simple fish pie into something rather special.

Nearby on Courtney Pl, Anjali Burnett (co-founder of Twenty-Seven Names) rates the vegetarian pies at Courtenay Place Bakery. “Basically cauliflower cheese in pastry,” she says. “AKA you had me at hello.”

On the other side of town, around the coast to Island Bay, is another Wellington institution: Patrisha’s Original Pie Shop. Its namesake, the late Patricia Bartlett, originally set up shop in Kilbirnie, before selling that business — it’s called Trisha’s Pies and is operating under new owners, serving decent pies apparently — and opening in Island Bay, a store that’s still run by her family, who talk me through the offering when I visit, stopping to serve the tradesmen (a great sign!) who file in and out. Another corner spot (what is it with pies and primo real estate positions?), the signage, exterior and fit-out all have an out-of-time quality — just what you want when having this classic pastry.

My pie of choice is always steak and cheese, and it’s also a good way to judge a bakery. Is the gravy rich but not stodgy? Is the steak tender or chewy? How generous is the cheese? I’m happy to report that Patrisha’s is excellent, and also boasts pastry that is both crispy and dense, providing the structural integrity that’s so integral to eating a pie sans cutlery.

The gluten-free pie is apparently one of its most popular iterations. If you’re after a nibble, the snack-size mince and cheese number is good, and there’s also a cabinet full of Edmonds-worthy baked sweets (Louise slice, apple crumble, caramel slice) and some sensual-looking soft-boiled egg sandwiches.

Over the hill in Brooklyn, Jo’s Pies was described by a capital-dweller as a must-visit. The courtyard was humming with patrons having coffee, but I wasn’t alone in popping in for a lone pie. This time, a mere hour after Patricia’s, mince and cheese felt suitably different without going on a radical digestive tangent. Jo’s pastry shared the same robust nature, stuffed generously full of mince, if a touch less cheese than I prefer (although perhaps that’s a good thing for my stomach).

READ: 21 Pie Recipes That Are All About Comfort

In a city brimming with cafes, restaurants and eateries of all kinds — not to mention weather that calls for a certain kind of comfort food — there are plenty of other candidates too.

As its name suggests, deli-style cafe Pickle & Pie is committed to the dish. The all-day eatery in Te Aro’s tight rotation of pies draws from seasonal fare and is served from 11am to 4pm, and when I visit the menu includes creamy mushroom with truffles, a brisket, pilsner and smoked cheese number — both $26 — and, like its compatriot Capitol Restaurant, it’s doing a Wellington on a Plate special, showcasing local regional ingredients: wild venison from Kāpiti Coast company Awatoru, Te Kairanga pinot noir from Martinborough and a jus using Wellington Chocolate Factory’s famous goods. Pies can be ordered takeaway (grab a jar of the house pickles too) and if you call ahead you can secure one from the fridge to heat up later.

Another Island Bay spot, The Blue Belle Cafe’s pies were highly recommended by one local. From the strikingly simple “mince” to the rugged “steak and Speights”, vegetarian-friendly pumpkin spinach and white sauce pie, and the flavourful chicken korma, there really is a pie for even the fussiest folk at this bakery. And in good news, this switched-on business gives you the option to order frozen pies online.

In the north of the city, you’ll find Nada Bakery in Johnsonville, a recommendation from Hannah Sullivan, founder of the lovely Ghuznee St boutique Sully’s. “I actually use to work at this bakery when I was in school,” she reveals. Its classic steak and cheese pie is her favourite. “I haven’t tried a better one than this.”

Kilbirnie’s Taste of Greece sells kotopita, Greek chicken pie.

In Wellington there’s also Penny’s, a “fabulous little spot” in Karori, says Yawynne Yem. Currently based in Tāmaki Makaurau, the PR account and showroom manager grew up in Wellington and has fond memories of eating a bacon and egg pie from Penny’s on her bus, the number three, home from school. The bakery has a red chain curtain door, something you don’t see much anymore, and a comforting sign of a good pie shop.

And that’s the power of a good pie, right? Comforting and reliable, it triggers our memory, coddles and nourishes, and Wellington’s offering does all of that well.