Jesse Mulligan Auckland Restaurant Recommendations: Where To Go For Great Japanese; Eateries Worth Visiting Out West

By Jesse Mulligan
Viva
The chef’s selection of entrees at Remuera restaurant Waku Waku. Photo / Babiche Martens

In this fortnightly series, Viva’s resident dining-out editor shares his sage advice on exactly where to eat. He’s eaten a lot of bad meals so you don’t have to.

Do you have any restaurant-related questions or dining-out conundrums? Jesse is here to help.

Email Jesse at Viva@nzherald.co.nz and tell

Here are some questions he’s been asked lately and what he told them.

The Brussels sprouts with sunflower seed miso, raw fish, and wings with shichimi at Omni. Photo / Alex Burton
The Brussels sprouts with sunflower seed miso, raw fish, and wings with shichimi at Omni. Photo / Alex Burton

Hey Jesse,

Can you suggest a good Japanese restaurant? Something a bit flash for a birthday boy who loves sashimi?

Todd

Hi Todd,

Cocoro is pretty unbeatable a really exacting Japanese restaurant which has gone from “hot new thing” to “underrated classic” in the 15 years or so I’ve been reviewing restaurants in Auckland.

If you’re out east try Waku Waku, a new-ish venture by the Cocoro chef in a flash part of Remuera. I visited a year ago when they first opened but haven’t been back to eat since they expanded into a bigger room. I bet it’s got even better.

Ebisu is in the city and possibly more fun I’ve never eaten badly there. Omni on Dominion Rd is more casual but has a great vibe if the birthday boy is still young enough to put on some cool clothes and hang with the hip kids. They do mostly charcoal cooking but also offer a great sashimi plate.

Finally, think about Masu one of my favourite Auckland restaurants of all time. It’s probably a combination of all the best of the above, with a fantastic wine service to go with the food and plenty of sake too.

Ebisu’s waterfront location is ideal for impressing overseas guests. Photo / Rebecca Zephyr Thomas
Ebisu’s waterfront location is ideal for impressing overseas guests. Photo / Rebecca Zephyr Thomas

Jesse,

Enjoy your reviews very much as we visit infrequently from the Bay of Islands and want to enjoy a city dining experience when we do. Just had an argument with friends who say you do not pay for your meals, I assume you do otherwise all your reviews are suspect. If you don’t pay how do you stay objective?

Colleen

Hi Colleen, and thank you for asking.

I visit restaurants anonymously, booking under somebody else’s name where possible and paying the bill with my own money. Sometimes I’ll have a brief conversation with the owner after paying, introducing myself and organising some photography the incredible Babiche Martens visits a couple of days later to take photos of food which the restaurant generally does provide without charge (I have offered to supply for publication the photos captured on the night by my second-hand Oppo Reno 5 phone but, sadly, my editor fed back that these photos “resemble a crime scene”).

Would it be possible to be anything other than complimentary about a complementary dinner? It’s arguable after all, movie reviewers don’t pay for the films they watch, and are still happy to tell you which ones they don’t like. But there is something altogether too cosy about a free meal it conjures images of a fat-cat reviewer being treated like a king, then tottering home to repay the hospitality by swiftly typing out a glowing endorsement for his unsuspecting readers. Actually, there is often some tottering on my part but the indulgence is self-inflicted. Tell your friends you won the bet.

Helensville's The Butcher Baker has a farm-to-table dining ethos, with a seasonal menu that currently spans crayfish tortellini, wood-fired fish, and charred brocolli. Photo / Vincent Wu
Helensville's The Butcher Baker has a farm-to-table dining ethos, with a seasonal menu that currently spans crayfish tortellini, wood-fired fish, and charred brocolli. Photo / Vincent Wu

Jesse,

My friends and I are due for a catch-up but we live out west and can’t be faffed coming into town (we’re in our 40s with kids now!). Anything new and decent out this way?

Cherie

Cherie, if you’re just looking for great food then try Sa-On, a Thai restaurant in Henderson specialising in Isan (this word can be spelt a number of ways but generally sounds the same) food, from the north-eastern part of the country. Think pork larb and papaya salad, with a side bowl of sticky rice to mop everything up.

Or head to The Butcher Baker, a fantastic-looking destination restaurant in Helensville. The menu is a selection of bistro favourites with a few twists, the mains centred around a woodfire oven, and reasonably priced by the looks. The owner-chef is Reginaldo Richard, formerly of Odettes and Honeybones in the city. Everything about this restaurant looks fantastic in fact, there’s a good chance I’ll get there before you do.

Viva dining-out editor Jesse Mulligan. Photo / Babiche Martens
Viva dining-out editor Jesse Mulligan. Photo / Babiche Martens

What you’ve asked, what he’s shared.

Where To Dine For Great People-Watching; Places That Go The Extra Mile. One reader says, “I want flavour, I want tastes of abroad. I don’t want fussy fare.”

Where To Eat That’s Actually Fun; Dinner That Isn’t Crowded. One reader is looking for a spot “that shows how good Auckland restaurants can be”.

Where To Eat On A Student Budget; Spots For A Semi-Romantic Date. From a suburban treasure where the food is excellent, to huge (cost-effective) portions.

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