Parovoz Speakeasy is located on the ground floor of what was once one of the oldest movie houses in Kyiv, Ukraine. However, the name has little to do with the silver screen — Parovoz translates to “locomotive,” referring to its long, narrow interior. Here, modern cocktails are served in a setting that’s a nod to the grand style of early twentieth-century nightlife.
Although Parovoz opened in 2012, one of its most beloved recipes wasn’t found on the menu until 2019. The Kyiv Sour, created by bartender and co-owner Dmytro “Dima” Shovkoplias, is a take on the New York Sour — a bourbon or rye whiskey sour with a float of red wine — using iconic local ingredients in place of traditional ones as a celebration of Ukrainian heritage. It’s sweetened with a syrup made from chestnuts, the symbol of the capital city. In lieu of the wine float, homemade bitters made from cranberries and beetroot, two ingredients found in much of the local cuisine, are sprayed over the foam in the glass at the end. And instead of American whiskey, Shovkoplias swaps in Scotch blended with grain whiskey for the base as a nod to Ukraine’s most important agricultural export.
In spring 2022, Parovoz Speakeasy celebrated its 20th anniversary, just a couple of weeks after Russia launched its first strikes in the country. As of this writing, Kyiv has not been captured, and the bar has remained open, serving Kyiv Sours and other libations, albeit with more limited hours.
- Shake all ingredients with ice until well chilled and foamy.
- Strain into a rocks glass over ice chunks.
- Spray the bitters over the top and add the beetroot chip.
Recipe extracted from Signature Cocktails by Amanda Schuster, published by Phaidon. $80, out now.
