Despite being a port city in a Mediterranean country, seafood is not the first thing you might think of when considering Beiruti or Lebanese cuisine.
Mostly this is because, as I have mentioned before, we tend to let the star ingredient shine by itself rather than dress it up.
However, a few restaurants have started to work with seafood and develop new recipes.
This recipe is a combination of two dishes I’ve tried in Baron, a hip and popular restaurant in Mar Mikhael that uses local ingredients in new ways, with modern cooking techniques and creative presentation.
The octopus is twice cooked – the first time to cook it through and tenderise it; the second to get the char and nice crispy bits around the edges.
Inspired by the restaurant’s presentation, I’ve used the moghrabieh pearls in a way that people don’t do at home: cold in a salad, rather than in a stew. I’m sure this will offend some traditionalists!
- Put the octopus into a stockpot, add the bay leaves, lemon zest, white wine and enough water to cover. Gently bring to a simmer, then cook over a low heat for about 1 hour 20 minutes, depending on the size of the octopus. If using a large octopus, it might take more time; if using 2-3 small ones, it’ll take less. Test by inserting a knife into the fleshy part of the tentacles; if it slides in easily, it is done. Take the pot off the heat and allow the octopus to cool in the water.
- Once cooled, separate the tentacles with a knife or kitchen scissors. Place in a bowl and mix with the olive oil, paprika, pesto, lemon juice and salt. Let it marinate for at least 1 hour or overnight in the refrigerator, if possible.
- To make the salad, mix the cooked moghrabieh pearls with the tomatoes and the pesto, and season with the salt and lemon juice, to taste. Spread over a serving dish.
- When ready to serve, heat a grill pan over a high heat and grill the marinated octopus on both sides until slightly charred. Carefully, pour over the sherry or wine (the alcohol might catch and flame) and let it bubble a bit to deglaze the pan. Serve the grilled octopus on top of the moghrabieh salad.
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Recipe extracted from ‘Bayrut: The Cookbook’ by Hisham Assaad, $65, Smith Street Books.