First Look: Lillies Is Christchurch’s First And Only Truly Urban Winery, Cidery & Restaurant

At newly opened cidery, winery and restaurant Lillies, on the fringe of Christchurch’s CBD, wine and cidermakers Liam Kelleher and Will Lyons-Bowman are making sure visitors are drinking and eating good things.

“We are very much winemakers moonlighting as restaurateurs here,” says Liam Kelleher, of Lillies, the urban winery, cidery and restaurant he’s recently opened in Christchurch with fellow wine and cidermaker, Will Lyons-Bowman. The duo, however, have pulled things off with aplomb. Despite being situated without a sign on the fringes of the CBD, and opening its doors in a particularly bleak Canterbury winter, most nights there’s already a full house.

“It’s something different,’ says Liam of Lillies’ swift success. “We’re creating our own market to share what we make, so it’s out of the box.” Lillies is Christchurch’s first and only truly urban winery, located just east of the four avenues in Phillipstown, the road to which is increasingly lined with interesting businesses beyond the original light industrial.

“We want it to be casual but on-point dining that won’t break the bank at a time of economic uncertainty and which under-promises and over-delivers,” says Liam. Behind this modesty though, lies a host of talent. Before Liam started his Lele North Canterbury wine label, he started London’s first natural fine wine shop, Noble Fine Liquor, and was involved in the highly regarded wine bar P. Franco, and restaurants Peg and Bright.

Will (Ngāpuhi) left as assistant winemaker at leading organic Canterbury winery Black Estate last year to concentrate on his wine label Vita, and the Lilli ciders (the cider brand, singular without an e) he makes with Liam.

He’d been looking to venture into hospitality for some time, with his considerable skills in natural fermentation extending beyond wine to pizza. Liam quips that Will is a “dough savant”, and the interesting pizzas central to Lillies’ food offering are testament to this. Both my fellow dining partner and I agreed Lillies’ (cavolo nero, sausage and chilli) pizza was one of the best we’d had in the city.

Accompanying Will in the kitchen is respected local chef Finbar McCarthy, formerly of Christchurch’s Gatherings and Story. Lillies’ menu goes beyond pizza, but just to what can be cooked on a hob or in clay pots in the pizza oven. This changing selection of dishes included a rich and tender lamb on polenta on the night of our visit, which we accompanied with ultra-flavourful garlicky greens. One Sunday a month there’s a kitchen takeover by chefs and restaurants from around the country that share a similar ethos.

The food is impressive, but the drinks came first, with Lillies emerging from Liam and Will’s quest to move their wine and cider making from Waipara into town, where they both live. They then found two adjoining warehouses, one which now houses their fermentations, the other, the Lillies restaurant and bar where they sell their wines and ciders.

Cider may still be an undiscovered realm for many, but Lilli’s serious examples are creating converts. Crafted perhaps unsurprisingly with a winemaking sensibility, the dry, crisp and floral-perfumed Lilli Apple and Quince Cider that can be had by the glass spent an extended period on its yeast lees for weight and texture. Lilli’s ciders include some rare pét-nat ciders, which like wines made in this way, get their fizz from being bottled while still fermenting.

Vita and Lele’s small-production wines are well worth exploring. Both labels make what could be regarded as natural wines, using organic grapes and minimal intervention. Vita’s wines are pure and expressive, brimming with the energy of the vineyards with which Will works. My current Vita favourite is the silken, cherry fruited and aromatic Nina Pinot Noir 2023 from the Skypunch Vineyard in Omihi that Liam and Will share with Black Estate.

Lele’s wines are a touch wilder, in terms of style and blends. Liam started the label after deciding to stay on in his hometown of Christchurch after the 2020 lockdown, initially selling most through his London enterprises. “I just want to make stuff I like to drink,” he explains of his motivation. With a finely honed and well-travelled palate, these are exciting wines that I, and many others, will enjoy. Take the tangy orange Lele Field Blend 2022, for example, made with gewurztraminer, riesling and pinot gris, that’s redolent of chrysanthemum, chamomile and rose, with a food-friendly savoury undercurrent.

“Wine is about a good time,” Liam enthuses. “And at Lillies it’s our responsibility to ensure people are having a good time, are drinking good things and eating good food.” This appears to be a recipe for success with Christchurch folk, and I’ll certainly be returning to Lillies for more delicious merriment.

Lillies, 495 St Asaph St, Phillipstown, Christchurch. Follow @lillies.lillies.lillies for updates.

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