There’s a long history behind this sweet dish from gallerist Leila Heller’s new cookbook Persian Feasts: Recipes & Stories from a Family Table.
This Persian delicacy was created in the seventh century and originally made with milk and dates. As time passed, ground wheat and flour were added to the Persian recipe.
While Persians only prepare it with flour, other countries in the Middle East make both a flour-based and seed-based halva. (The Ottomans began preparing it with sesame, which is now prevalent in most Arab countries.)
Iranians commonly serve it at festivities, celebrations, and funerals. When my mother moved to New York, she would make a big platter of halva balls, decorated with slivered pistachios, to deliver to friends in mourning or for the birth of a baby.
- In a small bowl, bloom the saffron in a ½ cup (120ml) of hot water. Set aside.
- Place the baby carrots in a medium saucepan and pour in just enough boiling water to cover them by 1cm. Reduce the heat to medium, then cover and simmer for 15-20 minutes, until soft. Drain, then rinse under cold running water. Transfer the cooked carrots to a food processor and puree until smooth. Set aside.
- Sift the flours together in a large bowl.
- Heat the oil and butter in a deep non-stick skillet over medium heat. Add the flours and stir continuously with a wooden spoon or spatula for 15-20 minutes, until the flour is fried and golden brown. Remove the saucepan from the heat. Stir in the carrot puree and mix until homogenous.
- In a separate medium saucepan, combine the sugar, rosewater, bloomed saffron water and ½ cup (120ml) of water. Bring to a boil, stirring continuously. Turn off the heat immediately.
- Using a ladle, add the syrup to the carrot mixture, mixing well after each pour (be extra careful with the hot syrup – you may want to wear gloves.) Stir until it forms a thick, smooth paste. Hold both sides of the saucepan and rock the paste from side to side for a few minutes to make sure it is even.
- Transfer the mixture to a baking sheet, then use the spoon to pack the halva down firmly. Using the side of a spoon or fork, create a geometric pattern on the surface. Garnish with pistachios. Cut into small pieces or roll into 2cm balls, then place into candy wrappers or wax paper.
- Refrigerate the halva for 2 hours, or until cooled. The halva can be stored up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
Persian Feasts: Recipes & Stories From A Family Table by Leila Heller, with co-authors Lila Charif, Laya Khadjavi and Bahar Tavakolian, $70, published by Phaidon.
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