BAR MAGDA
Cuisine: Modern Filipino/Bistro
Address: 25b Cross St, Central Auckland
Phone: 021 127 9377
Website: Barmagda.co.nz
Drinks: Fully licensed
Reservations: Accepted
From the menu: Parmesan custard $17; crab and prawn lumpia $15; pork and tuna suglaw $27; Magda salad $25; gnocchi $35; tamales $22; steak $42
Rating: 18/20
Score: 0-7 Steer clear. 8-12 Disappointing, give it a miss. 13-15 Good, give it a go. 16-18 Great, plan a visit. 19-20 Outstanding, don’t delay.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.We need more restaurants like Bar Magda, which is cosy and personal enough to feel like a local, but secret and exciting enough to make out-of-towners say “wow!”
“I’ve actually been here before,” admitted my own out-of-towner when I swung my arm around the place in a big reveal. He must have seen my crestfallen face, so added: “But when I first walked in I saw Lorde sitting at a table with Marlon Williams. It was everything a Christchurch boy wants from a trip to Auckland.”
There were no celebrities this time except for Carlo Buenaventura, the Philippines-born kitchen whizzkid who makes for good press and whose smiling face is synonymous with this underground, off-Karangahape Rd restaurant.
The literal translation of his surname is “Good Adventure” and though he might have sometimes wondered about the “good” part as he journeyed his way through Covid lockdowns, staff shortages and significant road closures, the adventure at Bar Magda continues. I had a challenging night there a couple of years ago, so last week’s meal had a “one last shot” feel to it, and I’m pleased to say it was one of the best meals I’ve eaten in recent months.
Though he is a renowned chef and ultimately responsible for the food coming out of the kitchen, Carlo spends most of his time on the floor delivering dishes and chatting to guests. I love this and totally get it from an owner-operator – why hide behind the pass hoping your front-of-house staff are fulfilling your vision, when you could be out there doing it yourself?
Lighting is low and moody, which makes it less likely the food will go viral on Instagram, but which adds to the speakeasy vibe. It’s also quite romantic, in a K Rd sort of a way.
“We didn’t even do any marketing for Valentine’s Day, and we were full!” reported Carlo happily.
Summer is not necessarily peak season for a subterranean bar, but as the evenings get darker and colder this sort of concept is much more appealing. There were about a dozen diners on the night we visited – enough to keep those rather dim lights on, presumably, with bigger crowds expected once daylight saving is over.
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.The menu is long and delicious. As at Hugo’s last week, there is a heap of energy in the cooking, with Filipino dishes I’ve never come across before, modified to suit the season’s ingredients and this particular kitchen space.
“These are like spring rolls,” said Carlo of the cigar-shaped filo parcels, filled with crab and prawn. “But we don’t have a deep fryer here, so we tried baking them, and it works!”
It certainly does. I loved these crunchy morsels, technically called lumpia, finished with a plum sauce that – while it is technically a tribute to cuisine of the Philippines, reminded me too of great New Zealand fish and chip shop spring rolls gobbled up with homemade condiments.
The suglaw is a must-order: chopped, grilled pork hidden beneath a sheet of cold tuna, marinated in coconut vinegar then topped with compressed nashi and a squiggle of creme fraiche. They really know how to ring every bell of your taste buds here and this dish might be their greatest achievement.
My co-diner Thomas is a vegetarian and was pretty well served: Barry’s Bay Parmesan Custard – Carlo’s high-end take on CheezWhiz – was just as addictive as the real thing. Gnocchi was good – who doesn’t love gnocchi? – if a little underseasoned to my taste; there was some big raw heat from the garlic chips and some appealingly glazed mushrooms mirroring the shape of the pasta, but some salt in the dough would have brought it all together.
“I read what you wrote about heirloom tomatoes,” said Thomas reproachfully, as his “Magda salad” arrived. “But I like them.”
He did well but nobody can eat a whole plate of sliced tomatoes, no matter how good the dressing. He admitted defeat just as I was slowing down on the plate of sliced steak – the heirloom tomato’s meaty equivalent.
I got up at one point to use the bathroom and spent way too long outside the three cubicles, staring at a word, “FUM”, which was spelled out across the doors. Was it a relic of a previous tenant? A new hipster spelling of the word “fun”? Ahh, I realised as I emerged from the cubicle with the ‘F’ on it. The letters stood for female, unisex and male.
“Would you like another drink?” Carlo asked me when I returned.
“No,” I said. “I think I’ve had enough.”
I blame the Magdatini, an easy-drinking version of the classic which forms part of a long and exciting cocktail list. This is Bar Magda after all, and though it’s tempting to save food this good for a special occasion, it would work perfectly for a drink and a couple of snacks anytime you’re nearby and feel like escaping the world.
More restaurant reviews
According to dining out editor Jesse Mulligan.
Are The Rumours About Hugo’s Bistro’s Renaissance True? Jesse investigates.
Full Time Sports Bar Isn’t Your Average Pub Grub. The Kingsland sports bar takes its food seriously.
Hanoi Haven In Takapuna Serves A Knockout Duck Curry. The food gets better and better at this Hurstmere Rd Vietnamese restaurant.
Olle in Milford Is Korean Fusion At Its Finest. A rare meal where everything goes right.
Is Piha Restaurant Aryeh Worth The Drive? It’s definitely worth a look, says Jesse.
Ada’s New Chapter Is Just Brilliant. The Grey Lynn bistro heralds a bright new chapter with chef Alfie Ingham.
Britomart’s Seafood Bistro Kingi Has A New Chef. But the team needs work.
