Alfajores are a sweet treat staple in South America. This Argentinian-style recipe from the new cookbook Crumbs, a collection of treats from around the world compiled by food researcher Ben Mims, unpacks their origins and explains how to make them.
When you say the name of these cookies to most people, the Argentinian version is the one that comes to mind most commonly (although there are numerous country-specific iterations). Even within Argentina, these dulce de leche-filled cookie sandwiches can be found plain, rolled in coconut, coated in chocolate, or coated in meringue, like the Chilean chilenitos. The Spanish version from which this cookie takes its name is more like a candy or confection, made with almonds bound by honey and spices and coated in icing sugar. A regional variation of Spanish alfajore from Medina-Sedonia in southern Spain that stuffs the honey-nut mixture between two wafer cookies provides a possible link to how these sandwiches of dulce de leche-filled cookies gained their name over time.
The basic recipe mixes wheat flour with cornstarch (cornflour) to produce the fine texture of the cookies, while lemon zest and alcohol, usually Cognac or other brandy, spikes the cookies and cuts through their sweetness. The dulce de leche that fills these sandwiches, however, is not the typical kind you drizzle from a squeeze bottle. You need to look for dulce de leche repostero online and in Latin markets. It has the consistency of peanut butter and will stay put when sandwiched between the cookies. It’s also easy to make your own at home, if you have the time.
ALFAJORES - DULCE DE LECHE-FILLED BUTTER COOKIES
Makes ~24 cookies
- Position racks in the top and bottom thirds of the oven and preheat the oven to 180C. Line two large baking sheets with parchment paper.
- In a medium bowl, whisk together the cornstarch (cornflour), plain flour, baking powder, salt, and baking soda.
- In a large bowl, with a hand mixer, beat the butter and white caster sugar on medium speed until pale and fluffy, 2-3 minutes. Add the egg yolks and beat until smooth. Beat in the brandy, lemon zest, and vanilla. Add the dry ingredients and stir until the dough forms and there are no dry patches of flour remaining.
- Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll out the dough to 6mm thick. Using a 5cm round cutter, cut out rounds of dough and transfer them to the prepared baking sheets, spaced 2.5cm apart. Reroll the scraps to cut out more rounds.
- Bake until the cookies are light golden brown at the edges and dry to the touch, 12-15 minutes, switching racks and rotating the baking sheets front to back halfway through.
- Transfer the baking sheets to wire racks. Let the cookies cool on the pans for 1 minute, then transfer them to the racks to cool completely.
- Flip over half of the baked cookies and top each with 1 tablespoon dulce de leche. Cover the dulce de leche with another cookie to create sandwiches. Dust the cookie sandwiches with icing sugar, if you like, before serving.
DULCE DE LECHE REPOSTERO
Makes 1½ cups (375g)
- Remove the label from the cans of sweetened condensed milk. Place the cans on their sides in a large deep saucepan and add water to come 5cm above the cans. Bring the water to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low to maintain a bare simmer. Place the lid on the pot, leaving it slightly ajar, and let the water simmer for 3 hours, making sure the cans are submerged by at least 5cm of water the entire time and adding more water if needed.
- Remove the pot from the heat and let the cans sit, undisturbed and submerged in the water, until they cool completely, at least 4 hours.
- Remove the cans from the water, open the cans, and stir the dulce de leche to ensure it’s evenly mixed before using. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
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