In this extract from new cookbook Persian Feasts: Recipes & Stories from a Family Table, influential gallerist Leila Heller shares a recipe for the Persian herb potage her family would make in Tehran when temperatures dipped (though the dish is delicious all year round).
My grandparents lived in an old house with coal stoves. During very cold winters in Tehran, they would build a korsi in their sunroom, a low table with a built-in coal-burning grill, covered in blankets and surrounded by cushions. My grandmother’s korsi was adorned with antique Persian and Indian textiles called termehs. They were embroidered with metallic paisley and floral patterns. My brother and I would count the days until winter so we could visit our grandparents and stretch out our legs to feel the korsi’s warmth.
Our meals during this time of the year would start with a traditional herb potage, followed by Azerbaijani food — often rice and a deliciously fragrant khoresh — prepared by my grandmother, whom I lovingly called nanou.
- Make the potage. In a large bowl, combine the split peas and lentils. Soak in hot water for at least 3 hours or overnight. Drain.
- Place the rice in a separate bowl, cover with salted lukewarm water, and soak for 30 minutes overnight. Drain. Heat the oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add three-quarters of the grated onion and sauté for 7-10 minutes, until golden brown. Stir in the turmeric and pour in 6 cups (1.4L) of water. Add the rice, split peas and lentils and stir to combine. The water should measure slightly more than half of the saucepan. Top up with more if needed.
- Bring to a boil. Add the spinach, scallions (spring onions), basil and parsley. Add the salt and pepper. Boil for 30 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent the bottom of the soup from burning. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer for 30 minutes, stirring frequently, until the ingredients are suspended in the water and do not sink when stirred.
- Make the meatballs. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine all the ingredients except for the oil. Mix well, kneading by hand, until the mixture is homogeneous. Using a spoon, push the meat to one side of the bowl until the juices come out. Drain the liquid.
- Add 2 tablespoons of the oil and knead until soft and smooth. Wet your hands, then shape a generous tablespoon of the meat mixture into a ball. Repeat with the remaining mixture.
- Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Fry the meatballs for 2 minutes, until brown. Flip and sear for another 2 minutes, until brown. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate. (They will be fully cooked in the soup.)
- Bring the potage to a boil. Carefully add the meatballs, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Partially cover and simmer for 30 minutes. If needed, thin out the soup with more water. Turn off the heat, then season to taste. Stir in the yogurt, if using. (The addition of the yogurt transforms this dish into aash-e-maast.)
- Ladle the soup into shallow serving bowls. Add a dollop of yogurt on top, if using.
Persian Feasts: Recipes & Stories From A Family Table by Leila Heller, with co-authors Lila Charif, Laya Khadjavi and Bahar Tavakolian, $70, published by Phaidon.
More herby recipes
Advertisement
Advertise with NZME.Verdant, flavourful and fresh dishes.
Fragrant chicken, lemongrass and papaya salad. This recipe is light, zingy and a little bit spicy.
This spinach, fennel and herb pie is so comforting. A crumbly Cretan-style pie from Ben Tish’s new book Mediterra.
A spin on a Syrian-style breakfast omelette. Be creative — vary the herbs with coriander and thyme or use kale instead.
Greek gigantes with tomato and dill that rewards patience. Big, bold, beany goodness.
Sublime sumac lamb loins with olive and herb salsa. Enjoy these lamb loins however you like — with vegetables, tossed through a salad or in a sandwich.
This sausage and herb plait is easier to make than it looks. A lot of flavourful pork and fennel sausage, a lot of crispy pastry, a lot of good.
