What are the most popular items to fly from local bakery shelves? Bakers from beloved Auckland kitchens highlight the bestselling treats that call customers back (and theorise why they might be in such hot, toasty demand).
Part of the privilege of visiting kitchens to watch professionals at work is the
They reveal the tricks of maximising crispiness, of balancing fickle flavours, of browning, baking and blistering to that precise, indescribable point of just right.
Watching in their shadow, it can feel like you’ve caught the magician stuffing their rabbit in the bottom of their hat (is that how that trick works?). Except, the guarding of trade secrets was never a part of the kitchen’s code.
Here, a collection of Auckland’s most popular local bakeries share a peek into their processes and spotlight the treat that draws their loyal customers back again and again.
Rhu
This wine bar/bakery/restaurant (the categorisation for Rhu’s dining experience seems to be constantly expanding – including that recent announcement that they’re open for dinner) is a relatively new addition to the Parnell strip. It opened in March, with chef and owner Tushar Grover returning to the site where he once ran now-closed Pasture’s adjoining bar (Boxer) and bakery (Alpha), as well as working as a sous chef in the main kitchen while the fine dining spot was in service.
At the new all-day eatery, the chef aims to showcase precise and indulgent cooking techniques usually reserved for fine dining restaurants at more accessible price points. Bread, berry tarts and warm chocolate chip cookies fly from the kitchen on to plates, but Tushar says the bestseller is one of their simplest servings.
“I’ll have to give the crown to our honey toast,” he says. “It’s crafted from our house-made milk bun, which we glaze in brown butter and mānuka honey before blasting it in the oven at a very high heat.”
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Advertise with NZME.This technique, Tushar says, “gives it a delightful contrast: crunchy on the outside and soft, fluffy on the inside.”
In the dining room, the toast is served with whipped vanilla yoghurt and cherries dressed with a cherry reduction (this fruit changes seasonally – in autumn the dish was topped with figs).
Address: 235 Parnell Rd, Parnell.
What else to try: Chocolate chip cookie.
Knead On Benson
Though almond croissants remain a staple snatched quickly from the cabinets at Knead On Benson, they’ve recently been edged out by their seasonal danishes, says founder James Bryant.
The flavours and toppings for the pastries at the bakery and eatery change every week and offer an opportunity, James says, to “showcase the freshest ingredients available and our team’s creativity”.
While the sweet and savoury flavours are constantly updated, the bakery has occasionally halted experimentation to bring back popular flavours by customer request.
“Anything with pineapple is a hit.”
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Advertise with NZME.James says there’s an enjoyment that comes with seeing what the bakers come up with for each variety.
“[They’re] reflective of the changing seasons as well as their diverse backgrounds, which includes experience gained abroad and at fine dining restaurants.”
James recalls a long list of seasonal offerings, from corn and bacon (from summer’s heights) to passionfruit and mascarpone (the sour end of autumn). Other varieties include pineapple and coconut, blood orange and pomegranate, truffle and enoki mushroom and a brunch option of poached eggs, labneh and chilli oil.
In March, the eatery also expanded its premises, opening the self-explanatory Knead Next Door. In this new room, they’ve created space for their pastry chefs and welcomed customers into a curated deli (customers who frequented the dairy that once filled its space can still find those pop-to-the-shop essentials).
Address: 76 Benson Rd, Remuera.
What else to try: The Madeleines.
Beabea’s
This Westmere bakery is a minimalist spot serving a limited and precise menu. It’s nestled next to the self-identifying “Mexican-ish” restaurant Ragtag (Beabea’s neighbours are also occasional collaborators – they’ve run pizza parties and a food-focused giveaway within their little nook of Auckland).
Their standout sweet treat is the nostalgic and supersweet pink bun, dotted with raisins.
“[It’s] a bun of many names; Chelsea, Sally Lunn, Boston, iced bun, etcetera,” says baker Sarah Tabak, who co-founded the spot with partner Ben Eyres. “We decided to go with pink bun because it felt playful.”
For the bakers, the bun was born in a bit of kitschy, British-Kiwiana sentimentality.
“We both grew up eating them and we’re suckers for a bit of nostalgia. We have many customers who tell us it takes them right back to being a kid.”
But, in practice, the bun has its origins as a test dough, as the bakers trialled what would become their signature hot cross bun recipe.
“Ben bakes them using a panettone recipe. It’s a three-day sourdough process. This gives them their light fluffy texture. We even hang them upside down while they’re cooling, otherwise they collapse under their own weight. We then top them with a buttercream icing, flavoured with freeze-dried raspberries, and of course coconut.”
Address: 160 Garnet Rd, Westmere.
What else to try: Organic sourdough loaf.
Butter Baby
Matilda Lee, the founder behind this Westgate-based bakery, says it’s difficult to distinguish between the cravings for two items on Butter Baby’s menu.
“Our two most popular items are our chocolate chip cookie and our pandan and sago doughnut – they tie for first place.”
The embrace of the cookie, Matilda theorises, comes down to the focus on the execution of textural elements: as she aims to balance the ratio of chew, crunch and chocolate chunks. It’s also a hearty serving – each cookie is about the size of a coffee saucer.
“It’s also finished with flakey salt to balance everything out.”
While the cookies maintain steady interest, Matilda says the response to the pandan and sago doughnut is the most rewarding.
“Many of our customers grew up with this southeast Asian flavour, but sadly it can be hard to find here in Auckland.”
Matilda says she’s witnessed some special moments for her customers, as they share the doughnuts with family and friends (people flock to Britomart’s Saturday market to visit Butter Baby’s regular stall).
“We’re really happy to see three different generations enjoying a flavour they grew up with. [There are also] some new fans we’ve introduced it to on the way.”
Address: 70/11 Northside Drive, Westgate.
What else to try: Cereal milk cookie.
Fankery
Cathy Fan, the founder and owner of Fankery, has carved out a distinct place for herself within Auckland’s treat scene. Her bakery was bolstered with the affection of Instagram audiences, who fawned over Cathy’s mochi-filled desserts.
After two years in business, Cathy reports that the mochi-filled burnt basque cheesecake is still the most popular item for Fankery. Mochi also fills chocolate chip cookies, brownies and tarts at the bakery. Beyond its roots in childhood flavours (Cathy grew up in Shanghai), the cheesecake is significant for Cathy in other ways.
“I created this dessert during a personal health challenge, finding solace and an outlet in baking. It is a fusion of my cravings for mochi and my quest to perfect a cheesecake recipe. The joy I felt when this creation came together was immense. From day one, it has brought me happiness to share it with the world and see others enjoy it.”
This cheesecake dessert quickly gained popularity and became emblematic of Fankery’s other offerings. Cathy says it’s a unique textural combination she hasn’t seen at other bakeries in New Zealand. The flavours of the cheesecake are wide-ranging, including ube, durian, Earl Grey, yuzu lemon, black sesame and hōjicha. As the demand for the cakes and treats expands, the baker is staunch about keeping the making hands-on.
“Ingredient sourcing is critical to us, and we take pride in making everything ourselves, from pistachio butter to yuzu jam. This approach ensures our flavours are always 100% authentic and is one of the main reasons our customers keep coming back.”
Address: Fankery attends regular pop-ups and markets (see @Fankery_ on Instagram for more information) and caters to online orders.
What else to try: Mochi-filled chocolate chip cookies.
Florets
At this cosy bakery in Grey Lynn, which lures locals in with its window-framed trays of bread, a simple but sweet option is always in demand.
Maya Handley says customers frequently return to the bakery to find their morning cheese bun. It’s a sesame-topped bun filled with Danbo cheese (a Danish-style semi-soft cheese) and green apple relish.
“I think people love the simplicity of the cheese bun,” says Maya. “The bun is slowly fermented sourdough made with organic wheat, grown in Canterbury so it has a great chewy bite and lots of flavour.”
The local influence continues with their house-made relish.
“We make the apple, onion and raisin chutney in-house with a good amount of black pepper – it’s cooked all day on Tuesdays and has a soft sweetness but also a tangy kick thanks to the apples and pepper. We use beautiful hand-made organic cheese from either Hōhepa or The Cheese Barn, both highly skilled New Zealand cheese makers.”
Florets is driven by a focus on organic and nutrient-dense breads (self-defining as a wholegrain sourdough bakery), as well as an aim to support fellow local manufacturers – their cheese bun sandwiches in those kind intentions.
Address: 596 Great North Rd, Grey Lynn
What else to try: Wholewheat sourdough loaf.
Bread & Butter
Aidan Kenealy, the managing director of Bread & Butter, says customers at his bakery are drawn to a staple pantry item.
“Both in-store and through wholesale, our rēwena bread is the most popular.”
Parāoa rēwena is a historically and culturally significant loaf for Aotearoa and Māori cuisine. As Aidan notes, it’s a bread leavened with a bug (or starter) made from fermented potatoes. The recipe for this loaf uses cooked potatoes in the pre-ferment.
“Our customers love it due to its light texture and versatility,” Aidan says. “My kids love it in their lunch boxes. [We’ll also] make dippy sticks with it for their eggs and soldiers.”
Aidan explains how the bakery has honed their specific process.
“Our particular recipe is special as we use the whole potato (including skins) to make it. This means there are bits of potato through the crumb which toast up just like oven-roasted potatoes. It gives a dimension to the bread that can’t be replicated in any other way.”
Address: 34 Westmoreland St West, Grey Lynn.
What else to try: The croissant.
Mibo Bakery
The countertop at Mibo bakery’s Mt Eden spot features a neat arrangement of treats. Playful, seasonally-inspired pastries often pile up near the till – recent additions include an apple, naisu (a sweet and buttery milk paste) and caramel pie, sweet and savoury danishes with either mango sago or truffle, and, perhaps more divisively, a hot dog, bechamel brioche.
Emma Zhao runs the two Mibo locations (as Julia Gessler noted earlier this year, the name translates to “bread” in Shanghainese), as well as another cafe, Benedict’s, close by in Eden Terrace.
Emma says the pistachio croissants, flecked with finely chopped nuts and filled with a melty cream, remain a big draw for customers. They also encourage positive responses from customers, flooding the team with “happiness and motivation”.
“We put lots of effort into every single step of it. From dough to lamination, to filling and garnish, we make every step the most important step. Good quality ingredients play a huge role too.”
Address: G05/155 Beaumont Street, CBD and G11/30 Enfield Street, Mt Eden.
What else to try: Sesame-topped ham and cheese croissant.
Wen & Yen
The Boston cream doughnut is the biggest hit for Wen & Yen, say the titular baker duo Wendy and Li-Yen.
“It’s a brioche doughnut filled with vanilla creme patisserie (custard) and dipped in Whittaker’s chocolate ganache.”
Brioche, with its buttery recipe and sunny colour, is a unique choice for doughnuts – this makes Wen & Yen’s servings super-rich.
Wendy says the customers that frequent their stocks are often excited by their attention to allergen-friendly and dietary-abiding recipes – they stock options for doughnuts that are vegan, with no added gluten or both. The bakery doesn’t have full coeliac-friendly approval and reports that they work with separate equipment for those glutinous servings.
All of the creamy flourishes are also made in-house – from toffee to raspberry coulis and salty caramel.
“All our doughnuts are handmade fresh each morning. They are all hand-cut and hand-filled with our homemade sauces and fillings.”
Though the team recently closed their Titirangi location, citing the impact of Covid, their original Albany location continues to serve up their much beloved preference-friendly treats.
Address: 6/32 Constellation Drive, Rosedale (the duo also make regular attendances to Auckland’s markets).
What else to try: Lemon meringue Swiss roll.
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