In celebration of Bastille Day on July 14, wine editor Jo Burzynska highlights the French drops to try now, from gamay to ancient picpoul de pinet.
As France makes its annual commemoration of the storming of the Bastille on July 14, wine drinkers can celebrate the slow but powerful revolution
New generations of vignerons are embracing greater freedom within France’s wine classification system, bringing both fresh ideas and reviving relevant ancient practices and forgotten grapes. So with the call of liberté, créativité, diversité, I rally you to taste this exciting new wave of French wines.
Ancient Variety: Picpoul de Pinet
We have France to thank for many of what have become the world’s most important wine grapes and their benchmark examples: from sauvignon blanc to syrah. However, with hundreds of native varieties, it’s also home to many more that are fascinating to explore. Take the ancient white grape Picpoul de Pinet, for example, with its bright, zesty character that makes it a great alternative to sauvignon blanc or pinot gris.
Wine to try: Incredibly good value for money, Domaine Felines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet 2022 is a lovely version that’s racy and intense, with notes of crunchy pear, salty preserved lemon and hints of blossom. Its supplier, the French specialist Maison Vauron, is also a great place to explore the new wave in French wines, as well as classics. $25 from Mvauron.co.nz
Modern Revival: Carignan
Within France’s vast array of varieties, many undervalued grapes and those that had fallen out of favour are now getting the attention required to let them achieve their potential. Carignan, largely grown in the country’s warmer south, was once a workhorse grape making boring bulk wines when planted on the plains. However, on the right sites, from older vines and given quality, focused treatment, Carignan is far more characterful. Some can be a little wild and rustic, but the best are full of dark-fruited and peppery flavour.
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Advertise with NZME.Wine to try: From a plot of Carignan planted in the 1950s, Mas des Agrunelles Carino Vin de France 2021 is a pure biodynamic expression of Carignan that’s full of interest. Hailing from the Languedoc region and aged in egg-shaped concrete vessels, it’s tangy and supple with blackberry and blackcurrant fruit and an attractive nuance of green capsicum, and an earthy, savoury undercurrent. $42 from Barewine.co.nz
Freedom of expression: Vin de France
While Vin de France may occupy the lowest rung of France’s wine classification system, it serves as a hotbed of innovation. Established 15 years ago, this category offers producers a level of freedom unparalleled by its geographically restricted counterparts. Under the Vin de France designation, winemakers can blend grapes from diverse regions and work with a broader spectrum of grape varieties, cultivation methods and winemaking techniques. This liberty has spurred experimentation, particularly suited to France’s burgeoning natural wine movement whose wines often fall outside the confines of traditional appellations.
Wine to try: The intriguing ultra-perfumed Domaine de la Bohème Môl 2021 could never be made in France’s restrictive appellation d’origine contrôlée (AOC) category. A fresh, floral, silky and delicate blend, its gamay was grown in the cooler vineyards of Beaujolais, while the grenache, carignan, syrah, cinsault and Muscat d’ Alexandrie were sourced from the warmer south. Rising region: Jura classic French regions such as Bordeaux and Burgundy may be the country’s best known, but wines from lesser-known regions are catching the attention of the world’s wine cognoscenti. East of Burgundy, the tiny Jura region has been punching well above its weight with its diverse array of wines, ranging from fresh ouillé styles to rich, oxidative wines aged similarly to sherry under a veil of yeast. $55 from Barewine.co.nz
Wine to try: Savagnin, not to be confused with its parent, sauvignon blanc, is the region’s quintessential grape variety. The richly textured, intensely fresh Domaine des Marnes Blanches Les Molates Cotes du Jura Savagnin 2022 ($72 from Bythebottle.co.nz) with its notes of honey, crisp lemon and saline mineral is an expressive example.
Growing Interest: Gamay
Once synonymous with its simplest wines released as Nouveau just after the vintage, Beaujolais is now showing the world that it has more than fruity drink-now appeal. In its 10 crus, considered the prime terroirs for expressing Beaujolais’ unique characteristics, gamay noir produces red wines that balance freshness and lightness with layers of depth and complexity.
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Wine to try: With its fragrant notes of florals and spice infusing silken, pure and rich cherry fruit, a Beaujolais cru wine such as the Château des Jacques Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle 2018 ($71 from Dnfinewine.com) makes an interesting alternative to pinot noir.
Beyond Beaujolais, gamay makes great examples in various regions across France, exemplified by wines such as the plush Domaine Serol Cote Roannaise “Eclat de granite” 2022 ($42.50 from Maison Vauron). Crafted on the volcanic fringes of the Loire region from Gamay St Romain, it has the concentrated spiciness of this local variant, along with bright raspberry and red cherry fruit, and subtle hints of stone and herb.
Southern promise: Languedoc
In the southernmost reaches of France lies the expansive Languedoc, the country’s largest wine-producing region by both landmass and volume. Once known for quantity rather than quality, Languedoc’s wines have undergone a transformation as more of its producers embrace old vines, and quality-focused winegrowing. Today its terroirs yield a diverse range of distinctive wines at more accessible price points than Bordeaux and Burgundy.
Wine to try: One of the pioneers of the Languedoc’s revival, Domaine d’Aupilhac focuses on cultivating old vines and traditional local varieties in unique terroirs. An excellent introduction to their wines is the elegant and fresh Domaine d’Aupilhac Lou Maset Languedoc 2021, a blend of grenache, cinsault, mourvèdre, and carignan with blackcurrant and cherry fruit and subtle herbal notes, encased in a fine structure. $45 from Bythebottle.co.nz
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