It was a bottle of red Burgundy rejected by a customer in the first wine shop I worked at that provoked my pinot noir epiphany.
Misconstruing the savoury character of a perfectly aged specimen as cork taint, and not accepting my positive assessment, meant I could take it home.
With some wild mushrooms I’d cooked to accompany it, I savoured this classic pinot in my small London backyard, and a vast new sensory portal opened up.
Closing my eyes, a unique configuration of fungus and flowers, exotic spice and stone, subtle red fruits and freshness, unfurled over a gossamer-like mouthful.
It was the first chance I’d had to enjoy a really good pinot noir outside of the formal tastings that were daunting for a novice. But this experience, it transported me to the slopes of pinot’s heartland of Burgundy.
That was 25 years ago, and I’m still entranced by the grape, even though the cheap Burgundies I could then afford often fell short, and its top ones are now at eye-watering prices.
I still love Burgundy, but I’m excited to be surrounded by pinot noir here in New Zealand that continues to surprise and delight, as its roots deepen in our previously uncharted viticultural land.
Pinot noir is a sensitive plant. When planted in the right places, it can channel the unique combinations of its site into its wines like no other. Its ability to express this terroir means in each vineyard it can deliver something truly distinctive.
And pinot noir is in a good place in Aotearoa at present, producing increasingly expressive examples ranging from serious to fun, food-friendly to ripe for chilled party quaffing.
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Advertise with NZME.It’s International Pinot Noir Day (Thursday August 18), and there’s plenty of local bottles worth celebrating.
Te Kairanga John Martin Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020, $49
Let's start in Wairarapa, where pinot noir began its journey in the country. The first pinot was likely planted near Masterton in the 1880s, then in the 1980s Martinborough became the founding district of our modern pinot industry. Te Kairanga was one of these early Martinborough pioneers, with its flagship Te Kairanga John Martin Martinborough Pinot Noir 2020 made from some of the region's oldest vines. It's an elegant, intense and silken expression, with a fresh mineral lift through bright cherry fruit that's infused with hints of anise, herb and a touch of toasty spice. Available from Fine Wine Delivery Company, Regional Wines and Spirits, Wine Direct
Colere Ashmore Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2020, $65
Next, we're in Marlborough, home of the most pinot noir planted in the country, and some increasingly impressive examples from plantings on the hills and heavier soils that allow it to shine. One such wine is the Colere Ashmore Vineyard Marlborough Pinot Noir 2020, with its freshness, delicacy and understated power, made with organic grapes from this Dog Point-owned vineyard. In its chalky-textured and brightly aromatic palate, threads of clove, smoke, green herb and savoury notes weave through tart plum and red fruits. Available from Point Chev Organic Wines, Cave a Vin, Regional Wines and Spirits, Finer Wines Kati Kati, Cult Wines New Plymouth.
Pegasus Bay Waipara Valley Pinot Noir 2020, $55
Pinot noir is characterised as the most cerebral of grapes, but always in combination with the pure sensual pleasure it gives. Both are embodied in the complex and concentrated Pegasus Bay Waipara Valley Pinot Noir 2020. Powered by a thrilling line of acidity, it layers tangy tamarillo and ripe black cherry fruit with notes of rosemary, forest floor, mineral, and charred meats, supported by fine-grained structuring tannins. Available from Fine Wine Delivery Company, Caro's, Glengarry, First Glass Wines, Liquorland Newmarket.
O Naturel Organic Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021, $34
An exciting new wave of styles here in Aotearoa are all about immediate enjoyment. In these, winemakers are using no or minimal oak, sometimes blending noir with gris, and making soft, often chillable versions full of vibrant, juicy fruit. A joyful recent launch is O Naturel Organic Central Otago Pinot Noir 2021, the first pinot from the duo behind Aurum, embracing a philosophy of minimal intervention for maximum drinkability. Its vivid and pure black cherry fruit are plump and supple, infused with a pinch of thyme and spice. Hard not to smile when you drink this. Available from Onaturel.co.nz
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Advertise with NZME.Lime Rock Central Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir 2016, $39
While not much of the country's pinot noir is to be found north of the Wairarapa, Hawke's Bay is now showing that it too can make some nice examples from its cooler coastal and inland, higher-altitude sites. For example, the Lime Rock Central Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir 2016, grown on limestone soil, a holy grail for top pinot noir production. At six years old, it's an attractive mature version of the variety, with a spicy, savoury richness, ripe dark fruits, hints of earth and dried herb and leaf, and a smooth, mellow texture. Available from Limerock.co.nz, Liquorland Stonefields, Waiheke Wine Centre, Wine Cave New Market, Merchant of Taupo.
