Why Is Everyone Wearing Clogs?

From the runway to your supermarket, we investigate what’s behind the surge in slip-ons.

We didn’t see much sun this past summer, but we did see a wave of clogs. From cheerful crocs and utilitarian Birkenstocks to chunky luxury iterations from the likes of Gucci, this footwear style has garnered a strong following.

Is it simply because they’re practical and easy to get on and off, or is there more to their uptake than just that?

Worn by a diverse swathe of people, their adoption seems universally appealing. Why are they so popular? And what does that say about fashion, footwear manufacturing, and our lifestyles?

First, some taxonomy. I’m using clogs as a catch-all term here, to describe a subset of mules (backless shoes) that have a single-piece upper, chunky profile and sole, and some form of utility — be it hardy material, sturdy tread, or lack of adornment.

Pivotal are two styles by Birkenstock. The brand has a long history of making cool, useful footwear with orthopaedic consideration, but over the past 10 years has enjoyed mass appeal as comfort became a priority.

Off the heels of its hit sandals, the brand’s Boston clog was a natural evolution. With an enclosed toe and single-piece upper in leather or felt it also offers more versatility throughout the year. Head to Ponsonby on a Sunday and the Boston is everywhere you turn.

Also an increasingly common sight is the company’s durable plastic clogs, the dynamically named Super Birkis; and they give the wearer an air of streamlined, Scandinavian practicality. Long favoured by skilled service workers like nurses and chefs — made from waterproof, washable, grease-resistant polyurethane with a cork footbed, and certified occupational footwear — Super Birkis are being adopted by a growing range of people who value these useful attributes and like to telegraph these priorities.

The style was used by local brand Zambesi for its spring/summer 2023 collection, and they featured in its lookbook, campaign and runway show. Graphic designer (and self-described footwear enthusiast) Sophie Findlay was the key to their inclusion, finding the initial pair.

“The Super Birkis immediately stood out to Zambesi and myself, as they have such a strong and clean silhouette. I love the minimalist/futuristic aesthetic, and they complimented our ‘Ethos’ collection palette and sensibility perfectly,” Findlay explains, and appreciates their storied background. “Everything is cyclic.”

Another shoe to transcend the rigours of service work is Crocs.

Once an object of disdain — mockery which certainly came from a point of classism — Crocs are now everywhere, worn by everyone, and have earned a dedicated (and influential) following of celebrities, including FKA Twigs, Justin Bieber, Whoopi Goldberg. Questlove even wears them on the red carpet.

Graphic designer Alessandra Banal, an art director of Viva Magazine, is a long-time clog wearer. I clocked her in a pair around 10 years ago, and have never forgotten how good they looked.

She started wearing them as a matter of convenience. “I bought my first (fake) pair while visiting Melbourne for the All Tomorrow’s Parties festival in 2013. We were walking all over town in peak summer. Strangers were pointing and laughing at them, and as a 21-year-old contrarian, I must admit it made me love them more. Plus my dress was pink and I wanted pink shoes to match,” she says.

Crocs are the most comfortable slip-ons she’s found for her small feet, and create an illusion of balance. “They became a very neutral shoe for me. Less decisions to make, maybe a new colour every few years as my style changed,” Alessandra says. “[They] seem like part of the millennial uniform now. I’m 31 and reporting for duty.”

She’s not alone, and their appeal is undeniable: Crocs are bright, practical and inclusive in both price and fit. Locally, the classic style retails for $86 and comes in 11 colours (for women).

Balenciaga isn’t the only luxury fashion label to add clogs to its assortment — Marni, Dries Van Noten, Kenzo, Jacquemus, Gucci, Givenchy, Acne Studios, Sandy Liang, Margaret Howell, Sies Marjan, Bottega Veneta and Molly Goddard have all shown clogs on the runway.

Interestingly for such a high-end brand (though perhaps not, given its outdoorsy heritage), Hermes paired clogs with every single look at its spring show.

Some labels, like Marni, Bottega Veneta and Proenza Schouler, have used colour to nod to the famous yellow Dutch version, which was traditionally made from wood and served as protective footwear for farmers and industrial workers, though similar iterations are found around the world.

Beyond the runway, brands are favouring clogs in their retail assortments too. At the time of writing, Ssense has 158 SKUs labelled “clog”, and at the lower price bracket, they can be found at Asos, Zara, Cotton On and, of course, Shein.

Why the surge in popularity?

Are they easier (and cheaper) for designers to design and make? “If anything, it’s the opposite,” reveals Sarah Street, footwear designer and founder of Bronwyn, explaining that moulds for EVA or rubber styles can be pricey and out of reach for smaller brands.

Using a full leather upper can be an expensive process too. “While the style itself is rather simple, the fit has to be able to hold your foot in well enough, so pattern cutting is key. The yields are also higher in mules and clogs as you’re using bigger pieces of leather; bigger pieces of leather also mean higher grades of leather are needed in order to mould the upper correctly and with minimal defects.”

There’s an accessibility to their slip-on nature, which doesn’t have to fit perfectly like loafers. However, Street advises not to be too cavalier. “If you have a contoured footbed you want the size to be good in terms of length, and you don’t want to be ‘hanging off the back’ of your shoe,” she explains, and there are still considerations to be made.

“I think it’s important to acknowledge that the fit is a little less ‘perfect’ and you’ll get some more movement than a closed-in shoe. In saying that, you want the overall length to feel right. Flexible and lighter-weight units help with fit and comfort as well. Alternating footwear so you’re not wearing your clogs or mules every day is also key.”

Although many may be tempted to, and clogs have certainly found an audience.

Much can be put down to lifestyle changes in recent years. Spending a lot more time at home has influenced what we wear, so durable footwear that can be slipped on and off with ease is a natural choice for house-tethered activities; we’re gardening, cooking and pottering around, so footwear that’s designed for this purpose while also channelling an air of comfort and self-sufficiency is relaxing to wear and look at. (Locally, Garden Objects and Everyday Needs stock clogs for these activities.)

Also comforting, with a lens of regression, is their childlike appearance — a chunky profile with soft edges, fit for a child, while there’s also a toylike quality to the materials, colours and proportions — and I think this resonates with our desire to look backwards.

Gen Z loves them too. Yawynne Yem works in fashion as a showroom manager and PR account manager and is candid and passionate about her personal style. A clog superfan, she’s so committed that she even wears them to walk up Mt Eden (she recommends Camper for such an activity) and her dedication to the footwear has even garnered her the highest of compliments.

“My little sister texts me and goes, ‘Harry Styles is in the Viaduct’,” Yawynne tells me. “I ran after him in my clogs. He turns around and is like, ‘Be careful in those clogs!’ and then he said I looked COOL.”