Handcrafted from sterling silver in Los Angeles, Sophie Buhai’s jewellery is bold, organic and sculptural. An LA native, Sophie spent 10 years in New York at the helm of fashion label Vena Cava before relocating back to her hometown in 2014. Buying her first home allowed Sophie to turn her hand to interiors and, later, jewellery. Fluidity between the two — she also works on interior design projects for private clients — is perhaps what gives her jewellery such strength, drawing influence from the likes of Brancusi and Georgia O’Keeffe. A selection of her pieces is now stocked exclusively at Simon James Concept Store, starting at $628.
How would you describe your design process?
I work a lot from old images. I spend a great deal of time doing research. Then I compile a mood board with a general theme. I sketch for a few weeks until a cohesive collection comes together. For me the hard part is not coming up with designs, but editing ideas. I spend most of my time editing. I never want collections to be too big or too scattered.
How did the transition from designing clothing to jewellery and interiors happen?
It was very natural. I moved to LA, got a house and started to decorate and become domestic. Friends started asking me to help with their places. Then I did a residency in Italy and ended up making jewellery. I've always loved silver jewellery and realised no one was doing a purely sterling silver collection these days. I wanted to bring back the art of modernist silver jewellery.
Why do you craft your pieces predominantly out of sterling silver?
I love sterling silver for many reasons. It has deep roots in the West with Native American silver and Mexican silver. It also has a tie to the mid century modernist movement in America and Scandanavia. I also love that silver is less precious then gold. It feels more masculine and strong on a woman. A solid sterling piece lasts forever, it gets better with age. It's not fast fashion. Each piece is made by hand. It feels like going back to a craft.
How do you approach the design of an interior space?
For me it's always about creating a soothing environment with unusual details. Nothing should ever be too obvious, but you don't want a space to feel it's trying to hard to be "designy". I like anti-interior interiors — a bit undone and spontaneous, while at the same time peaceful in the palette and materials.
Who would you cite as a muse?
My mother and my friends. Strong women who work and and appreciate design and function.
What role does art play in your practice?
I'm constantly looking at art books, but I try not to think too much about art v design . . . to me, it's all connected.
What are your thoughts on the relationship between contemporary branding and Instagram?
It's an interesting time. I know there are a lot of haters, but I actually love Instagram. I think it's a great way to share imagery and connect with other people on a visual level. It's also a free way to expose your brand if you are smaller and can't afford advertising. It's a great tool.
How do you feel about the current pace of the fashion industry as a whole?
I think the fast-fashion backlash has already started and I'm hoping it grows.
