Award-winning photographer Dean Purcell has spent his year documenting street style at various events in Aotearoa. He tells Madeleine Crutchley about photojournalism and reflects on his learnings about New Zealanders and fashion.
A ta’ovala layered over a school uniform. A leather aviator hat with round goggles. A Playboy puffer jacket.
Throughout the year, photographer Dean Purcell has joined the Viva team to capture these ensembles and more, photographing stylish New Zealanders at Pasifika, Ōamaru’s Steampunk Festival, Polyfest, World Climbing Day, Armageddon and Diwali Festival.
The myth that New Zealanders only wear black? Busted.
In November, Dean was celebrated for his work documenting street-style in Aotearoa. At the NZ Geographic Photographer of the Year awards, one of Dean’s shots from Pasifika Festival was awarded Best Portrait.
The shot, taken within the Samoan village of the festival in March, captures attendee Urlin Mulitalo standing against a red backdrop held by her cousin Blessing (left) and her brother Gideon (right). Viva’s creative and fashion director Dan Ahwa noted that Urlin’s ensemble stood out for its mix of contemporary and traditional elements. She carries a patterned handbag, wears a vintage dress and has a hibiscus flower tucked behind her ear.
NZ Geographic publisher and convenor of the awards, James Frankham, said the criteria for the awards was guided by the role photojournalism plays in Aotearoa.
“In the judging room we engage in technical discussions, but interestingly, final decisions often come down to questions of what function photography has in our environment and society.
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Advertise with NZME.“Each frame is a photographer’s attempt to describe the world in front of them – a real image of Aotearoa, and a reflection of who we are as a nation.”
Dean has been a photojournalist since 1998 and worked for regional newspapers and picture agencies before landing at The New Zealand Herald 21 years ago. His coverage spans the fold, from breaking news stories to sport and lifestyle journalism, while also documenting seminal runway shows at New Zealand Fashion Week before the expansion of street style and influencer culture. The Viva street style series, conceptualised by Dan Ahwa, is a newer addition to Dean’s portfolio and draws on his combined 27 years of experience covering news.
“It’s fashion [photography] with a tad, a sprinkle of photojournalism.”
He points to his coverage of Pasifika Festival, the first assignment in the series, as a formative shoot for galvanising his approach.
Dean and Dan had brought along a pile of backdrops to use at the event. When they began to set up for the shoot at Western Springs, they considered how they might make this on-the-go set-up work.
“Do we try and tape them up to something? Do we hang them off something? I think I might have suggested, why don’t we get people to hold them?” Dean remembers.
Initially, Dean had planned to shoot this handheld set-up quite tightly, using the plain backdrop to draw focus to the chosen attendee and their outfit. But, after a few shots, he took a step back and drew the frame wider to capture the people holding the backdrop on either side, as well as any activity in the background.
“I stood back and shot the whole thing wider – it was that first frame that I showed Dan. It was like, ‘that’s the moment, hang on, it’s going to work out cool if we do it this way.’”
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Advertise with NZME.Dean has adopted a similar approach to other set-ups in the series, looking for a way to incorporate a broader context or small interaction between people in the photos.
“It’s like you’re building up layers. You’ve got your subject, what they’re wearing and these little moments tucked into the wings.”
The photographer points to Armageddon’s widened frame as another example. At an event where spectacle and people-watching are all a part of the fun, Dean’s camera captures those curious, wandering eyes.
When he’s shooting street-style, Dean tries to avoid giving people too much direction.
“I don’t take control of the photo, I just like to let them do their thing and see what they can bring to the table.”
He says this flexibility can open up room for surprising, raw moments.
“At Steampunk, one of the [people] we photographed, I got her to stand on her side and look at me and when the wind blew, her hair blew across her face. It’s a simple thing – it doesn’t have to be all perfect.”
The photos, with makeshift backdrops that aren’t perfectly pressed and smoothed, can also capture a snippet of what the environment actually looks like.
Dean points to the crinkled, plastic marquee behind the performers at Polyfest. It’s also evident in the chalked-up gear of climbers caught mid-workout at Boulder Co on World Climbing Day.
Though an attendee’s choice of clothing certainly plays a role in being picked out of the crowd, Dean is also interested in highlighting a sense of personality and passion on these special occasions.
“The great thing I think we’re doing is – as opposed to outside fashion week where people are getting dressed up and they’re working within that field – is that these people aren’t doing it for those reasons. They’re doing it for their own purpose. It’s everyday people, who aren’t models, who didn’t walk out the door that day thinking they were going to be in Viva.”
After a year of capturing New Zealanders in their best threads, Dean has considered our sometimes-bashful approach to clothing.
“I don’t know if people would agree with me or not, but I think we, as a nation, are quite conservative. I don’t think we’re willing to put ourselves out there, really outlandishly, in what we wear. I think that’s what is great about these events – it gives people a window to do that. They kind of have this alter-ego. So, when they get in front of the lens, that comes out. You see the confidence in them.”
That interaction has been really rewarding in the field.
“That’s quite cool – you get a few minutes with them and you can see the whole way they change, the way they come out of themselves a little bit.”
More on street style
Revisit the ensembles from 2024.
At Diwali Festival, Politics, Pride And Fashion Take Centre Stage. Vibrant colour, a mix of tradition and modernity and a celebration of New Zealanders from all walks of life were on full display at the annual Diwali Festival in Tāmaki Makaurau.
At Armageddon, The Young And Young At Heart Converge For Escapism. From anime cyborgs to medieval tavern owners, the minds of thousands of Kiwis who descended upon Auckland Showgrounds this past weekend proved there are no limitations when it comes to dressing up.
At Polyfest 2024, An Array Of Intricate Costumes Tell The Stories Of Pride & Joy. The Manukau Sports Bowl played host to the biggest Pacific dance festival in the world.
On World Climbing Day Boulderers Look To Balance Function And Swagger. As a dexterous and distinctive sports scene celebrated World Climbing Day, award-winning photographer Dean Purcell teamed up with writer Madeleine Crutchley to document the sporty stylings of boulderers in Tāmaki Makaurau.
At Oamaru’s Steampunk Festival, Victorian Cosplay & Alter Egos Steal The Spotlight. The weird and wonderful converge in a postapocalyptic take on self-expression at the home of Steampunk in Aotearoa.
Fashions Fade, But Style Is Eternal At The New Zealand Fashion Museum’s Open Day. The world’s first online fashion museum welcomed fashion lovers in real life this past weekend. Here’s what people wore and why.
