Nothing’s really ever new, is it? But how we view something — and who’s wearing it — can provide a fresh outlook on a garment or aesthetic, and recontextualise it in our cultural landscape. In different hands, something simple and pedestrian can become almost radical, while still offering a wearable
Case in point, the twinset, a wardrobe staple that’s finding a new audience: men.
A classic from the knitwear canon, a twinset comprises a cardigan and a matching layer underneath (often short-sleeved, sometimes tank-cut) and is defined by its layers of sameness and repetition.
Fuss-free, warm and comfortable, with an air of stability, the twinset is an enduring favourite of nannas, aunties, office workers and librarians — all under-appreciated bounties of style inspiration.
Its conception has been claimed by Pringle of Scotland, whose twinsets were worn by Grace Kelly. Its story goes that designer Otto Weisz invented the set around 1930. But Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli also staked a claim.
Historically associated with preppy, Sloane-y womenswear (and the twinset-and-pearls cliché) it has also long been a symbol of conservatism, from the family-values 1950s to the Regan and Thatcher eras.
With fashion currently finding renewed interest in classic wardrobe tropes, designers look to these aesthetics and class markers to convey stability and wealth during a time of social and economic unease.
Fashion also borrows from these symbols to subvert and reappropriate them; a traditional garment can have a very different reading when adopted by someone from the out-group, and this plays a part in challenging and dismantling stereotypes and power structures.
It’s this lens of re-configuration that makes the recent, quiet revival of the twinset rather intriguing.
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Advertise with NZME.Sure, it’s been presented by womenswear designers lately too, offering ease and warmth. But the most interesting thing about this renaissance is that many designers have shown this combination as part of their men’s offering — brands as varied as Versace, Hermes, Paul Smith, Miu Miu, Jil Sander and Solid Homme.
While the twinset isn’t dramatically radical (there’s plenty of that elsewhere), there is something of a soft subversion to it.
It’s never been an overtly sexualized item of fashion, although that speaks more about how media and culture have perceived the demographics associated with it (a topic for another time). It is, however, traditionally feminine and somewhat maternal — symbolic of care work and holding things together, things that are intrinsically appealing (according to how we’ve been socialised) and interesting concepts when applied to menswear. Not to mention attributes we should all aspire to.
This is softness both figurative and literal.
Perhaps, what’s most appealing with the idea of twinsets worn by men — and anyone — is a shared commonality, something that is rather comforting right now, and simple. Just like a twinset.
As we consider autumn dressing, and what to wear now, the twinset warrants a place in menswear, and consideration in your wardrobe. (Frequent cardigan wearers Tyler, the Creator, Pedro Pascal, Seth Rogen and Chris Pine are only a step away, and I predict at least one will show up in a twinset soon).
The twinset gives the wearer a softness and simplicity that isn’t always abundant in traditional menswear; an antithesis to the rugged or tailored sensibilities that have categorised men’s fashion. It’s soothing and reassuring.
Beyond subtexts and meaning, there’s a reason the twinset has been a fixture for knitwear brands for so long. It’s easy. With two matching layers, it removes the need for much thought about the top half. There’s also the mix-and-match element of this twosome; wear them together, or not.
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Advertise with NZME.Appealing, no?
Within an outfit, lean into the ease offered by a twinset and keep the rest of your look classic or plain — an approach demonstrated recently at Miu Miu.
That said, a matching cardigan and knit provide an easy foil for something bold on the bottom half, like a printed trouser from a brand like Dries Van Noten. You could go the Thom Browne route, and wear tailored shorts for schoolboy proportions.
Or you can really indulge in comfort, and team a twinset with some plush, heavyweight trackpants.
For those who love a zany knit, a twinset is an excellent vehicle for doubling down on print or colour, an approach demonstrated by Versace, which showed searingly bright spins on the argyle classic motif.
Acid hues can be seen locally too, with Zambesi’s new collection featuring a fetching neon-chartreuse twinset. Standard Issue has a more traditional iteration, while Tolaga Bay Cashmere has the separates and colours to put one together yourself (or consider Scotland’s Jonstons of Elgin). Secondhand stores, eBay and Etsy all offer affordability and quality.
Above all, the thing that defines a twinset and makes it so appealing is what it isn’t.
It’s not a button-down shirt, it’s not a T-shirt, it’s not a half-zip, it’s not even a jumper.
The twinset is something else, and its existence relies on two parts coming together. After all, half a twinset is just a cardigan. But bring those two simple, gentle layers together, and you have something rather compelling — and worth trying.
